Maybe a yearly thing to check.
How-To: Install Whiteline BHR93 Rear Sway Bar (2011-2016.5 Cruze)
How-To: Install Whiteline BHR93 Rear Sway Bar (2011-2016.5 Cruze)
Overview:
The rear axle has some anti-sway capability in the Gen1 Cruze, but ultimately allows a great deal of body roll. This ultimately causes cornering traction and performance to suffer. Whiteline makes a rear sway bar that is, dollar for dollar, the best handling modification you can make to your Cruze. Note that this tutorial explains the installation of the Whiteline BHR93 bar, for Cruzes with a build date of 11/2011 and newer. Check your door jamb for the build date before ordering a sway bar. This MAY fit on Cruzes older than 11/11, but you will need to check if the spring bosses are welded or pressed in before ordering.
Tools Required:
- 13/16" or 20mm socket and ratchet
- Torque wrench capable of 111 lb-ft
- Two jackstands and a jack
- A can of silicone spray (available at any auto store)
- A hammer
- Optional: A jack puck or piece of wood (I used this jack pad for $6.50 on Amazon.com)
Part Required:
- A Whiteline BHR93 Sway Bar (Available on BadNewsRacing.net)
- Loctite 242 Blue Thread Locker (~$5 on Amazon.com)
Procedure:
1. Lift the rear of the car on both sides, and allow the rear to rest on jackstands.
2. Using a jack puck or a block of wood, center the jack below the rear axle and lift very slightly; just enough so that the jack is supporting the weight of the axle instead of the rear shocks.
3. Using either a 13/16" or 20mm socket, remove the rear shock bolts
4. With the shock bolts removed, lower the jack and allow the axle to hang at its lowest position. Remove the springs and the top and bottom bushings. Start by pulling the spring from the top.
5. With the bottom bushing removed, you'll see the spring boss. This is simply pressed into the perch; give it a few whacks with a hammer from the side and it will pop right out.
6. Clean up the hole where the boss is pressed into, and tap the new bosses in with a hammer.
7. Slide the lower bushings back over the bosses, and liberally spray silicone grease over them. This will allow the spring to pop back on with little effort.
8. Reinstall the top bushing, and slide the spring back onto of the bottom bushing as shown below. Be sure that the top of the spring is centered with the top bushing.
9. Lift the axle back up using the jack, line up the shocks with the holes, and reinstall the shock bolts. Torque to 111 lb-ft + 60 degrees.
10. Apply some Loctite blue 242 removable thread locker to the bolts supplied with the sway bar.
11. Use the bolts to secure the sway bar in the position shown below and tighten securely. Note, this orientation is technically "backwards." The bar can be installed either facing the front, or facing the rear of the car. It's really up to you how you want to install it. It will clear the exhaust and will fit fine either way.
Enjoy your new handling improvement!
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Cruze-adjacent, but apparently Whiteline now lists this as fitting both first and second gen Volts, and thus, one is now sitting in my house. Oddly, it is not listed as fitting a second-gen Cruze, which, like second-gen Volts, is D2XX instead of Delta II.
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Installation should be very similar to this, aside from the lower shock bolt torque being lower...and trying to figure out where the hell to put jack stands on this car. Probably won't bother until spring.
Good to know the bolts require occasional re-torquing. The bolts on my Powell rear bar on my Cobalt have needed to be tightened again once as well.
Installation should be very similar to this, aside from the lower shock bolt torque being lower...and trying to figure out where the hell to put jack stands on this car. Probably won't bother until spring.
Good to know the bolts require occasional re-torquing. The bolts on my Powell rear bar on my Cobalt have needed to be tightened again once as well.
I revisited my sway bar today. I broke out my jack, stands, 1/2" breaker bar and a six point socket along with some Knock'er Loose. What I found was that the mounts are just spinning in the perch. So this caused me to think about making my own spring perch mounts. They could really benefit from a hex on the top portion within the spring. This would greatly facilitate retightening them when needed. Initially I thought all I would need to do is weld a nut that fits within the circumference, but then I remembered they were aluminum.
Should I make them from steel or should I figure out a way to make them from aluminum. I know it is possible to weld aluminum, but I am thinking about the strength.
![290308]()
![290309]()
![290310]()
Should I make them from steel or should I figure out a way to make them from aluminum. I know it is possible to weld aluminum, but I am thinking about the strength.
Old thread but beauty non the less imma throw one in my 2012 Cruze 1.8How-To: Install Whiteline BHR93 Rear Sway Bar (2011-2016.5 Cruze)
Overview:
The rear axle has some anti-sway capability in the Gen1 Cruze, but ultimately allows a great deal of body roll. This ultimately causes cornering traction and performance to suffer. Whiteline makes a rear sway bar that is, dollar for dollar, the best handling modification you can make to your Cruze. Note that this tutorial explains the installation of the Whiteline BHR93 bar, for Cruzes with a build date of 11/2011 and newer. Check your door jamb for the build date before ordering a sway bar. This MAY fit on Cruzes older than 11/11, but you will need to check if the spring bosses are welded or pressed in before ordering.
Tools Required:
- 13/16" or 20mm socket and ratchet
- Torque wrench capable of 111 lb-ft
- Two jackstands and a jack
- A can of silicone spray (available at any auto store)
- A hammer
- Optional: A jack puck or piece of wood (I used this jack pad for $6.50 on Amazon.com)
Part Required:
- A Whiteline BHR93 Sway Bar (Available on BadNewsRacing.net)
- Loctite 242 Blue Thread Locker (~$5 on Amazon.com)
Procedure:
1. Lift the rear of the car on both sides, and allow the rear to rest on jackstands.
2. Using a jack puck or a block of wood, center the jack below the rear axle and lift very slightly; just enough so that the jack is supporting the weight of the axle instead of the rear shocks.
![]()
3. Using either a 13/16" or 20mm socket, remove the rear shock bolts
![]()
![]()
4. With the shock bolts removed, lower the jack and allow the axle to hang at its lowest position. Remove the springs and the top and bottom bushings. Start by pulling the spring from the top.
![]()
![]()
5. With the bottom bushing removed, you'll see the spring boss. This is simply pressed into the perch; give it a few whacks with a hammer from the side and it will pop right out.
![]()
6. Clean up the hole where the boss is pressed into, and tap the new bosses in with a hammer.
![]()
![]()
7. Slide the lower bushings back over the bosses, and liberally spray silicone grease over them. This will allow the spring to pop back on with little effort.
![]()
8. Reinstall the top bushing, and slide the spring back onto of the bottom bushing as shown below. Be sure that the top of the spring is centered with the top bushing.
![]()
9. Lift the axle back up using the jack, line up the shocks with the holes, and reinstall the shock bolts. Torque to 111 lb-ft + 60 degrees.
![]()
10. Apply some Loctite blue 242 removable thread locker to the bolts supplied with the sway bar.
![]()
![]()
11. Use the bolts to secure the sway bar in the position shown below and tighten securely. Note, this orientation is technically "backwards." The bar can be installed either facing the front, or facing the rear of the car. It's really up to you how you want to install it. It will clear the exhaust and will fit fine either way.
![]()
Enjoy your new handling improvement!
21 - 29 of 29 Posts
