[Sunline Fan]

This installation guide applies to both the 1.4L turbo and 1.8L engines available in the Cruze. The 1.4T is covered first, followed by a slight variation that is found with 1.8L installation (thanks to Smurfenstein for the 1.8 info/pictures!)

This simple how-to illustrates how to install XtremeRevolution's Big 3 cable kit. For information on what the Big 3 kit is and where to purchase one, visit this link: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-gen1-audio-electronics/200442-big-3-kits-f-s.html

While this tutorial is designed to be a pictorial how-to, here is a link to a Youtube video that Terry made on how he installed his: How to install your big three kit. - YouTube

TOOLS REQUIRED:

• 14mm socket with ratchet or wrench of the same size
• 13mm socket with ratchet or wrench of the same size
• 10mm socket with ratchet or wrench of the same size
• Side cutters/scissors
• Small pair of regular pliers or needle nose pliers

Step 1:

Organize your parts. You should receive from XR:

• Three (3) cables, of three different lengths.
• Short bolt
• Various cable ties

Step 2:

Remove ground cable from the battery using a 10mm socket or wrench. If you are unsure of which one it is, you may not want to attempt this modification.

Step 3:

Locate the three studs (RED arrow points at them below) on the front cross member, just behind the driver's side headlight:

Using 13mm socket, remove the nut as shown by the BLUE arrow in the pic below. Leave the existing wire on the stud. Grab the shortest of the three cables from the kit and put one end on the stud. Thread nut back on while making sure it sits flat on the other wire end on that stud:

Step 4:

Gently curve that cable up toward the ground post on the front end of the battery. There's plenty of cable, so no need to make it go tight. It looks to make a tighter bend in my pic here than it really does. Remove the 13mm nut from the post as indicated by the RED arrow below and connect the other end of the cable there. I then disconnected the entire cable from the post just let the system reset itself to the new settings, since the computer likes that:

Step 5:

Get the second longest cable (shortest remaining) from your parts and connect one end on the stud indicated by the BLUE arrow below. Again, make sure it doesn't conflict with the other wire on there. The nut is also 13mm:

Step 6:

Route the second longest cable toward the front of the engine. See pic below for how I routed it. Terry says you can go in front of the hoses, but I'm not sure, in order to make it bolt on straight. (Please excuse the dirty engine- will clean soon when weather cooperates) I think it's better like this:

Step 7:

Connect the last end of the second cable to the threaded hole in the engine with the short 14mm bolt included with Terry's kit:

Step 8:

This is by far the trickiest yet. Stand on the right side of your car, leaning in over the engine/right fender. You'll see the alternator toward the back side of the serpentine belt trail. Reach around to the back of the alternator (toward left side of the car) and you should feel a stud/nut on the back there, toward the edge. It's also 14mm, but may be 13mm depending on the year of your car. Remove the this nut, while being careful that no wires fall off. I actually found it easier to use a ratchet wrench of the same size here instead of the socket due to reaching over like that and only having one hand down there. Put the end of the remaining (longest) cable on the alternator stud and reinstall the nut. I draped the other end of the cable over the top of the engine for the time being.

Alternator as found, without added cable. You will remove and reinstall the nut circled:

View attachment 259457

Alternator with cable attached, as circled:

View attachment 259458

This picture shows how to route the cable once installed. Note the circled nut in the lower right, view from the other way:

View attachment 259466

View going toward the battery:

View attachment 259473

View attachment 259449

Step 9:

Lift up the terminal bus cover on the positive side of the battery. Remove the 13mm nut as indicated by the BLUE arrow below. Grab the cable from on top of the engine, snake it a decent route to the area, and put it on the stud. Reinstall the 13mm nut.

In order for the cover to close, the there's no good way for the cable to enter this area. As indicated by the RED arrow below, there was a small plastic tab sticking up there between the two wire ends coming up there. I took a short pair of needle nose pliers and simply snapped this piece off easily, to give the wire space to travel through. Then snap the terminal bus cover back down:

View attachment 259481

Step 10:

Since this positive cable does touch some very hot hoses, I saw the chance to cable-tie the cable to the wiring harness right there to keep it spaced out from the coolant hoses:

View attachment 259489

Step 11:

Reconnect the battery ground cable to the battery.

Step 12:

Record your mileage and other critical stats to enter on your service/modification log:

Step 13:

Start it up to make sure everything works and reset your clock. I'm seeing about 14.4-14.5 volts at idle now.


FOR THE 1.8L NA ENGINE IN THE CRUZE LS:

Step 6 in the 1.4T procedure is slightly different. The bolt that goes into the front of the engine (holding the bracket in this case) requires a e12 6-point socket to remove and install the cable with. See pictures below:

 

[XtremeRevolution]

Well done! An excellent writeup.

 

[brian v]

I Agree ,well done bravo to you .

I do like a man whom will get his knuckles busted a little to improve his peace of mind . And I agree use a wrench for the 14 mm alternator nut , due to ease of access ..

 

[Epickphale]

Well it would appear that this fits my "easy enough for a drunken 8 year old" test.... looking forward to getting this in for sure.

 

[NYCruze2012]

I've got mine installed already as well. Very straight up install. Thank you very much Sunline Fan for the DIY write-up. You are absolutely correct. The alternator cable by far is the trickiest.

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[Sunline Fan]

Please let me know if anyone finds any discrepancies with the size of the wrenches/sockets needed. I did that all from memory and I have no idea if it's the same for all 2011-2013 1.4's.

 

[iKermit]

For the 1.8L you need a 6 pt socket to put cable from positive to front engine ground). I was able to install 2/3 cables because of this. (Smurfenstein texted me how to do for mine.) Oh and dont drop any bolts. You will hate your life when it gets to a crevice unknown to earth and gearheads. This is why it took me 2 hours had to find a 11 mm bolt.

I will add a "how to" to this thread for the 1.8L guys after Tuesday when I get the 6 pt socket lol.. btw even with only 2 cables my battery voltage is steady at 14v. Used to go down to high 12s.

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[Smurfenstein]

For the 1.8L you need a 6 pt socket to put cable from positive to front engine ground). I was able to install 2/3 cables because of this. (Smurfenstein texted me how to do for mine.) Oh and dont drop any bolts. You will hate your life when it gets to a crevice unknown to earth and gearheads. This is why it took me 2 hours had to find a 11 mm bolt.

I will add a "how to" to this thread for the 1.8L guys after Tuesday when I get the 6 pt socket lol.. btw even with only 2 cables my battery voltage is steady at 14v. Used to go down to high 12s.

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I already have my kit installed, I'll take some pictures for SF to add.

 

[iKermit]

I already have my kit installed, I'll take some pictures for SF to add.

Perfect thanks

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[Smurfenstein]

Perfect thanks

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OH, the socket size you need for that 6pt is an e12 BTW. Don't want you to waste your money buying a range of sockets when you only need one

 

[Sunline Fan]

OP has been updated to include the 1.8 differences.

 

[MyShibbyEco]

...
Step 12:

Start it up to make sure everything works and reset your clock. I'm seeing about 14.4-14.5 volts at idle now.
...

Did you check the voltage before? Really your voltage should not have changed. It's being able to sustain current under load. My Cruze says 14.8v at idle. I'm more curious about any noticeable effects such as "no more head light dimming while turning the wheel sitting in a parking lot" or the like (which actually does not happen to me all the time, either, without this mod). Although I see the value in doing this, I don't see the worth without a payoff. Excellent write up though, thanks for taking the time and taking good pictures.

 

[tecollins1]

Although I see the value in doing this, I don't see the worth without a payoff.

To be honest the engine grounding cable is worth just as much as the alt/neg cables.
The stock one goes from behind the engine and ends right beside the front driver side headlight. We are talking about 2ft of grounding cable, and possibly CCA.

With the new EG cable you are able to extend your spark plug gaps.

0.035 4ga stock
0.030 4ga tuned
0.032 1/0ga tuned

With 1/0ga and 0.032
I "personally" went from 28mpg to 32mpg.

I recently got new "NON" LLR tires and have still been able to do 30 consistently in 95% city.
On Lordstown trip I did 49mpg (70 mile trip) on same tires.

I gave Vince two grounding cables to test out on the Cruze and sonic.
So when he finally gets around to testing them out, ill post the results.


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[iKermit]

OH, the socket size you need for that 6pt is an e12 BTW. Don't want you to waste your money buying a range of sockets when you only need one

Nah i am borrowing it from a co worker here. He hasn't been in the best mood this week so i am waiting for him to fix himself first lol... I hate leaving a job half done, and it is the easiest cable to do -_-

Thanks for adding the pics btw.

 

[Sunline Fan]

Did you check the voltage before?

No, forgot to. People here said it should increase slightly though, so I figured stock must be around 13.8/14.

 

[MyShibbyEco]

No, forgot to. People here said it should increase slightly though, so I figured stock must be around 13.8/14.

Mine is anywhere from 14.3v to 14.8v depending on when I flipped through the dash screens.

...
With 1/0ga and 0.032 I "personally" went from 28mpg to 32mpg.
...

Don't take this as offensive (because I know the "personal" measurement is relative and subjective), but I think most others will not see the fuel economy unless it is repeatable (and by repeatable I mean remove it, measure fuel economy, put it back on, measure, repeat X number of times).

Like I said before, I'd be interested in seeing any factual before-after information, or prior reasoning/information as to why this is necessary. I just like to research the **** out of things before I take the dive.

 

[tecollins1]

If you check my other posts about this product (other threads) you will see that I'm not trying to say that you will see any improvement in mpg. I am trying to be careful with how I say what the expectations are until there is physical data proving so. That's y I used quotations on the word, personal.

I've tested multiple different gaps with and with out cables and were all data logged. they were sent out to Jerry a month ago. He has not been able to get to them due to being over booked with data logs from GB on the Cadillacs.

But what I can tell you from my experience. The cables make a big difference with spark blow out at wider gaps.

My car personally could never get any where near 0.035 "STOCK" I have a video on YouTube showing the boost bouncing around 10-15 psi @WOT

I'm now at 0.032 tuned (peak @24psi)
No prob holding boost.

I know this doesn't say anything about mpg. But it does show performance. Coming from Vince "you want to go as large a gap as you can (as long as there is no blowout) for better emissions and mpgs."




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[tecollins1]

I'm bumping this up so the guys that just bought the kit know how to install it.


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[Dragonsys]

So just to make sure, the 3rd (longest) is a positive cable and not a ground?

 

[tecollins1]

Longest to shortest is:
Alternator wire
Engine ground
Battery neg


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