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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Here to fine tune my original DIY post on fixing the P2076 intake manifold tuning valve issues.

Symptom: CEL is illuminated with code P2076 - intake manifold tuning valve position sensor or switch circuit range / performance

Problem: The lever connecting the tuning motor to the intake manifold has fallen off.

Fix: Remove tuning motor / lever and drill holes to secure with a bolt

What you will need:

Tools:
  • 1/4 ratchet
  • About 6” worth of 1/4 extensions
  • T27 1/4 drive socket
  • 1/4 drill bit
  • Cut-off wheel
  • 10mm wrench
  • 10mm socket
  • Blue locktite

Parts:
  • (1) 1/4 bolt
  • (1) 1/4 lock washer
  • (2) 1/4 washer
  • (1) 1/4 nut

Time: approximately 1 hour

Repair difficulty 2 / 5

For those not familiar with where this arm is located:

This is bolted onto the end of the intake manifold on driver side

- Remove the lever from the top part of manifold, it will just pop off. The bottom part has probably already fallen off but if it has not it will also just pop off like the top

- Remove 3 T27 bolts, the bottom most is the most difficult of the 3

- Push the IMT motor towards the back of the engine and then pull it up and unplug the electrical connector and then you can pull the IMT motor out

- Drill a 1/4” hole into the bottom part of the lever, this is the side that has the knob. I cut the knob off and then drilled from the backside

- On top of the motor arm there is a part where is starts to round off, use the cutoff wheel to cut off the backside to make room for a nut and lock washer. I used a razor blade to cut a line to better show where to cut off

- put 2 washers onto the 1/4” bolt and slide them through the lever and into the IMT motor arm and attach lock washer and nut to secure.

- add blue locktite so the nut doesnt come off over time

- tighten so the bolt is snug but still allows the lever to move. If you over tighten the you will get a code for performance valve is stuck open. - P2070

- reverse the steps 1-3 to reinstall IMT motor with lever assembly

Ive been driving with this repair to my cruze for about 10k miles to ensure it does work and the code has not come back since.

Edit: Have been driving with this fix for 2+ years with no issues and still holding strong!
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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Looks good. Is this a How-To post or are you still working on it? I can change the title and add it to the rest if it is done. Where is the other post you are referring to?

NM - found it. Do you want them merged or delete the other?

[h=1]P2076 - Performance Tuning Valve[/h]
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks doug,

To be honest I just scanned my car for codes and investigated the intake and found the lever had fallen off.

Did my research to try and buy that part new but dealer doesn’t sell without the intake manifold.

I think this will be the best repair until dealer or someone else decides to start selling without the intake manifold.
 

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Thanks doug,

To be honest I just scanned my car for codes and investigated the intake and found the lever had fallen off.

Did my research to try and buy that part new but dealer doesn’t sell without the intake manifold.

I think this will be the best repair until dealer or someone else decides to start selling without the intake manifold.
In this message , the poster, itrustno1 , claims he was able to purchase the motor with connecting rod online here , $103, which is about 100 bucks more than I want to pay for a fix


I've also seen posts here about fixes that involved replacing the connecting rod with junk yard parts off other Cruzes, or from Chevy Sonics which also use the 1.8 liter LUW engine.

That said, the way I see it, getting a new copy of the same old ball-and-socket design still has the same failure potential - it will happen again.

So having an improved connection - such as a ¼-20 screw - makes for a much more durable repair than simply replacing the failed unit with a new copy of the old design. (Sounds like Fiat window cranks and Takata air bags
)

In my case, I drilled it and put a zip tie thru the ball-and-socket joint. It's been holding up for a couple months now - fingers crossed it stays together. That said, if it goes, I'll implement your fix next time.

I agree, it's a reasonable expectation that someone - GM, maybe Dorman - should kit up an improved motor and connecting rod setup, and sell it as a replacement rather than having to replace the entire intake. SMH.

Doug

.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks doug,

To be honest I just scanned my car for codes and investigated the intake and found the lever had fallen off.

Did my research to try and buy that part new but dealer doesn’t sell without the intake manifold.

I think this will be the best repair until dealer or someone else decides to start selling without the intake manifold.
In this message , the poster, itrustno1 , claims he was able to purchase the motor with connecting rod online here , $103, which is about 100 bucks more than I want to pay for a fix /forum/images/smilies/smile.png

I've also posts here about fixes that involved replacing the connecting rod with junk yard parts off other Cruzes, or from Chevy Sonics which also use the 1.8 liter LUW engine.

That said, the way I see it, getting a new copy of the same old ball-and-socket design still has the same failure potential - it will happen again.

So having an improved connection - such as a ¼-20 screw - makes for a much more durable repair than simply replacing the failed unit with a new copy of the old design. (Sounds like Fiat window cranks and Takata air bags /forum/images/smilies/smile.png )

In my case, I drilled it and put a zip tie thru the ball-and-socket joint. It's been holding up for a couple months now - fingers crossed it stays together. That said, if it goes, I'll implement your fix next time.

I agree, it's a reasonable expectation that someone - GM, maybe Dorman - should kit up an improved motor and connecting rod setup, and sell it as a replacement rather than having to replace the entire intake. SMH.

Doug

.
Kinda glad I didn’t see that post until now. ? I probably would have been lazy and purchased the replacement motor which like you say would probably have failed again anyways.
 

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My son's cruze is suffering this issue, however It looks as if I could pop the arm back in place. When I tried to do so it looks as if the motor crank (bottom) has rotated to a position that I cannot make the rod go back into the socket.
Is removing the bottom motor going to essentially reset that rotation so that the arm will function correctly?
 

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My son's cruze is suffering this issue, however It looks as if I could pop the arm back in place. When I tried to do so it looks as if the motor crank (bottom) has rotated to a position that I cannot make the rod go back into the socket.
Is removing the bottom motor going to essentially reset that rotation so that the arm will function correctly?
Turn the key on for a moment (without starting the car), then watch the crank. It should return to somewhere in the range 12 to ~5 o-clock (as viewed looking from the driver's side fender), where you can then snap the rod back onto it. Then turn the key off and put it back together.

When mine has gone wonky, I've found the crank over-rotated, beyond 5 o-clock, to 7 or 8. It should stay between 12 and ~5 o-clock. I have assumed the over-rotation occurs after the rod pops out and the computer is trying to find the location of the tuning valve.

(There's a sensor that detects the valve's position, and, when the rod has popped out, the sensor value is static while the computer is trying to turn the crank. Presumably, the computer gets a bit confused when it doesn't see the sensor value change and in turn ends up over-rotating the crank.)

HTH.

Doug

.
 

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Here to fine tune my original DIY post on fixing the P2076 intake manifold tuning valve issues.

Symptom: CEL is illuminated with code P2076 - intake manifold tuning valve position sensor or switch circuit range / performance

Problem: The lever connecting the tuning motor to the intake manifold has fallen off.
You can purchase a new linkage (arm) on ebay, takes 5 minutes to install, no tools required.

Looks good. Is this a How-To post or are you still working on it? I can change the title and add it to the rest if it is done. Where is the other post you are referring to?

NM - found it. Do you want them merged or delete the other?
You can purchase a new linkage (arm) on ebay, takes 5 minutes to install, no tools required.

In this message , the poster, itrustno1 , claims he was able to purchase the motor with connecting rod online here , $103, which is about 100 bucks more than I want to pay for a fix
Doug

.
You can purchase a new linkage (arm) on ebay, takes 5 minutes to install, no tools required.

Here to fine tune my original DIY post on fixing the P2076 intake manifold tuning valve issues.
You can purchase a new linkage (arm) on ebay, takes 5 minutes to install, no tools required.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
You can purchase a new linkage (arm) on ebay, takes 5 minutes to install, no tools required.
No thanks. I’ll keep my permanent fix. Plus the issue isn’t with the lever side. The issue is with the motor arm.
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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You can purchase a new linkage (arm) on ebay, takes 5 minutes to install, no tools required.
Mine is not broken. I was interested in having the OP create a How-To for future reference.
 

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Here to fine tune my original DIY post on fixing the P2076 intake manifold tuning valve issues.

Symptom: CEL is illuminated with code P2076 - intake manifold tuning valve position sensor or switch circuit range / performance

Problem: The lever connecting the tuning motor to the intake manifold has fallen off.

Fix: Remove tuning motor / lever and drill holes to secure with a bolt

What you will need:

Tools:
  • 1/4 ratchet
  • About 6” worth of 1/4 extensions
  • T27 1/4 drive socket
  • 1/4 drill bit
  • Cut-off wheel
  • 10mm wrench
  • 10mm socket

Parts:
  • (1) 1/4 bolt
  • (1) 1/4 lock washer
  • (2) 1/4 washer
  • (1) 1/4 nut

Time: approximately 30 minutes

Repair difficulty 1.5 / 5

For those not familiar with where this arm is located:

This is bolted onto the end of the intake manifold on driver side

- Remove the lever from the top part of manifold, it will just pop off. The bottom part has probably already fallen off but if it has not it will also just pop off like the top

- Remove 3 T27 bolts, the bottom most is the most difficult of the 3

- Push the IMT motor towards the back of the engine and then pull it up and unplug the electrical connector and then you can pull the IMT motor out

- Drill a 1/4” hole into the bottom part of the lever, this is the side that has the knob. I cut the knob off and then drilled from the backside

- On top of the motor arm there is a part where is starts to round off, use the cutoff wheel to cut off the backside to make room for a nut and lock washer. I used a razor blade to cut a line to better show where to cut off

- put 2 washers onto the 1/4” bolt and slide them through the lever and into the IMT motor arm and attach lock washer and nut to secure.

- add blue locktite so the nut doesnt come off over time

- tighten so the bolt is snug but still allows the lever to move. If you over tighten the you will get a code for performance valve is stuck open.

- reverse the steps 1-3 to reinstall IMT motor with lever assembly

Ive been driving with this repair to my cruze for about 10k miles to ensure it does work and the code has not come back since.

If you just want to buy the modified part from me PM me your email and I can get one made up for you.
Mine is not broken. I was interested in having the OP create a How-To for future reference.
I would like to get the modified part , my email is [email protected]
 

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I have a Sonic with the same issues. I have a mechanic I trusted (though I wonder now) who I spent a ton of money on a check engine light before he finally just told me that I needed to buy a separate part of replace the whole intake manifold.

So I purchased the part (from the guy on eBay and Amazon who sells them with metal ball bearings to replace the plastic to make it a much more permanent fix) and dropped the car off at the mechanic. After two days I picked it up and the work was not done because as he put on the invoice "Unable to install the lever due to a frozen motor control." He said on the phone with me that it was frozen and needed to be replaced but the repairs I see for this here and online don't mention that this "control motor" needs to work, it just needs to be moved out of the way so the new lever can be installed.

Can anyone tell me if it's worth going to another mechanic or will I get told the same thing?
 

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This is the one that I bought for $12.95.


The repair costs less than a dollar but takes time and tools that I don't have. I purchased the above part thinking that anyone - even I - could just swap out the old lever with the new one and that since this one has a metal ball bearing it would actually last. How on earth was my mechanic unable to do this even if the control motor is frozen?
 

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Thank you VERY much Maqcro1!!!!

Results of your DIY fix:
288993


Bought my Cruze for 1k. Original owner's father pointed out associated code and lever when I first purchased the vehicle. I have to replace the cruddy plastic thermostat housing and water pump, so while I had the housing and hoses off I decided to tackle this as well. I remembered your post from crawling around on here after driving the vehicle back home, so I pulled it back up and went straight to work!

Looking forward to reassembling once parts come in.

Appreciate your awesomeness, thank you!!!!
 
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