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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Thank you VERY much Maqcro1!!!!

Results of your DIY fix:
View attachment 288993

Bought my Cruze for 1k. Original owner's father pointed out associated code and lever when I first purchased the vehicle. I have to replace the cruddy plastic thermostat housing and water pump, so while I had the housing and hoses off I decided to tackle this as well. I remembered your post from crawling around on here after driving the vehicle back home, so I pulled it back up and went straight to work!

Looking forward to reassembling once parts come in.

Appreciate your awesomeness, thank you!!!!
glad to see another using the guide. Mine has been holding up great. The motor should move the lever open and close when idling. Just watch it to make sure it moves, if not then loosen a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
This is the one that I bought for $12.95.

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The repair costs less than a dollar but takes time and tools that I don't have. I purchased the above part thinking that anyone - even I - could just swap out the old lever with the new one and that since this one has a metal ball bearing it would actually last. How on earth was my mechanic unable to do this even if the control motor is frozen?
The problem is with the connection from the lever to the motor.
This is the one that I bought for $12.95.


The repair costs less than a dollar but takes time and tools that I don't have. I purchased the above part thinking that anyone - even I - could just swap out the old lever with the new one and that since this one has a metal ball bearing it would actually last. How on earth was my mechanic unable to do this even if the control motor is frozen?

I find it hard to believe the motor is frozen is place. Have him idle the car for a few minutes and the motor should move. If the motor is somehow not working you can pickup a used from from a junkyard for about $10. If he says no to that he鈥檚 probably trying to get money out of you ( replace the entire intake manifold ) which is unnecessary.

not 100% that the metal ball will be a permanent fix. The reason for the fix I posted was because the hole on IMT motor got lose over time not the lever.
 

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hi so this is happ3ning to my chevy crus 2013 now how do u get it back into postion ifit jumped postion .
 

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hi so this is happ3ning to my chevy crus 2013 now how do u get it back into postion ifit jumped postion .
Hola and welcome Angel!
You can spin where the top part of the arm attaches, that is what I did to move it in place.

If it still can't because of the bottom part attached to the motor, just turn key one click (system on but not cranked) and see if the motor spins. The bottom should be around 12 to 4 o'clock position I believe.

Lots of good info further back in this thread that I used. Good luck :).

Btw, there is an arm you can buy with a brass ball instead of plastic that you can pop on instead of doing the mod. I just felt like tinkering :p.

Shoutout to Maq, thanks again, you are amazing!
 

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The problem is with the connection from the lever to the motor.



I find it hard to believe the motor is frozen is place. Have him idle the car for a few minutes and the motor should move. If the motor is somehow not working you can pickup a used from from a junkyard for about $10. If he says no to that he鈥檚 probably trying to get money out of you ( replace the entire intake manifold ) which is unnecessary.

not 100% that the metal ball will be a permanent fix. The reason for the fix I posted was because the hole on IMT motor got lose over time not the lever.
I have now had two different mechanics say the motor is dead and needs to be replaced.

The last mechanic actually spent two hours to gradually turn the thing to finally click my replacement arm that I provided into place but the check engine light has stayed on due to the motor not working/being frozen. The mechanic tried to charge me for two hours of labor but I lost my mind saying I thought it was a five-minute no-tools fix and there is no way I would have agreed to pay for anything more than $50 or so to do it. She wound up waiving the charges which was nice of her but it does show me that my problem is more than a $10 part from eBay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I have now had two different mechanics say the motor is dead and needs to be replaced.

The last mechanic actually spent two hours to gradually turn the thing to finally click my replacement arm that I provided into place but the check engine light has stayed on due to the motor not working/being frozen. The mechanic tried to charge me for two hours of labor but I lost my mind saying I thought it was a five-minute no-tools fix and there is no way I would have agreed to pay for anything more than $50 or so to do it. She wound up waiving the charges which was nice of her but it does show me that my problem is more than a $10 part from eBay.
yes if the motor is bad then of course the arm can鈥檛 turn. A used motor can be pulled from a pick your parts yard for less than $10. Only 3 torque bolts (T25... I think) and the motor can be removed.

There is no reason for 2 hours of messing around. Start the car and let it idle for 30 seconds. The motor gets checked for issues 30 seconds after the car has been started. If the motor doesn鈥檛 move then the motor is bad.
 

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yes if the motor is bad then of course the arm can鈥檛 turn. A used motor can be pulled from a pick your parts yard for less than $10. Only 3 torque bolts (T25... I think) and the motor can be removed.

There is no reason for 2 hours of messing around. Start the car and let it idle for 30 seconds. The motor gets checked for issues 30 seconds after the car has been started. If the motor doesn鈥檛 move then the motor is bad.
They spent two hours manually cranking it until the arm could be replaced. So the replacement arm is on there but it doesn't turn.

Does anyone sell the Intake Manifold motor by itself without me having to get the part? I am not a mechanic and most of the mechanics around here won't let me provide a part or hit up junk yards for them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
They spent two hours manually cranking it until the arm could be replaced. So the replacement arm is on there but it doesn't turn.

Does anyone sell the Intake Manifold motor by itself without me having to get the part? I am not a mechanic and most of the mechanics around here won't let me provide a part or hit up junk yards for them.
again... seems a little unusual to me to spend so much time on something like that. I haven鈥檛 seen them sold separately but like I鈥檓 saying they have salvage yards where you can pick that part off the car for cheap.
 

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From what I've gathered you cannot buy the motor separately, I found a few Cruzes and Sonics at a local junkyard however the intake manifold has already been pulled :( You can find them on eBay for the same price. I personally don't feel like spending $350 on an entire intake manifold assembly just because the tuning valve.
 

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Yeah, I mean, the car runs fine and has even with the motor frozen and the check engine light. Sure, it may run a little rougher than is ideal, maybe I'm losing a tiny bit of power or wasting some gas but I cannot quantify those things. My only practical issue is that I cannot operate my remote starter with the check engine light on which is kinda lame especially in the winter but that's pretty much it.

My biggest concern is that I want to trade it in at some point and there's no way I am getting top value for it with the check engine light issue and I do not want to trade it in with negative equity so this is really costing me from trading it for a newer car as soon as I would like.

I owe about $3,200 on it which would be close to what I can get in trade if it was in perfect shape. This is a glaring imperfection for trade-in purposes. Fortunately despite all of these issues, I still have put 125,000 miles on it and I still feel confident that it will reliably get me to and from work. I'll just need to put even more miles on it before then.
 

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Hello everyone, I've been lurking this thread for some time now. I bought the replacement piece from eBay and it fits fine. my question is.... my motor seems to be making a full 360 instead of bouncing around from 12-6. I'm able to align two ball joints and pop the arm on BUT because of this 360 motion instead of up and down the linkage ends up binding on itself.... has anyone else noticed this? when the linkage is off is it suppose to swing right around?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Hello everyone, I've been lurking this thread for some time now. I bought the replacement piece from eBay and it fits fine. my question is.... my motor seems to be making a full 360 instead of bouncing around from 12-6. I'm able to align two ball joints and pop the arm on BUT because of this 360 motion instead of up and down the linkage ends up binding on itself.... has anyone else noticed this? when the linkage is off is it suppose to swing right around?

This is what the link should be doing

 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Yeah, I鈥檝e seen this video and thought something was strange. My motor turns counter clockwise 360. When the linkage is on it binds on the way back down. Around 10 o鈥檆lock
Wondering if your motor is bad. Junkyards have them fairly cheap. Like a lkq / pick your parts. Maybe around $10
 

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Here to fine tune my original DIY post on fixing the P2076 intake manifold tuning valve issues.

Symptom: CEL is illuminated with code P2076 - intake manifold tuning valve position sensor or switch circuit range / performance

Problem: The lever connecting the tuning motor to the intake manifold has fallen off.

Fix: Remove tuning motor / lever and drill holes to secure with a bolt

What you will need:

Tools:
  • 1/4 ratchet
  • About 6鈥 worth of 1/4 extensions
  • T27 1/4 drive socket
  • 1/4 drill bit
  • Cut-off wheel
  • 10mm wrench
  • 10mm socket
  • Blue locktite

Parts:
  • (1) 1/4 bolt
  • (1) 1/4 lock washer
  • (2) 1/4 washer
  • (1) 1/4 nut

Time: approximately 1 hour

Repair difficulty 2 / 5

For those not familiar with where this arm is located:

This is bolted onto the end of the intake manifold on driver side

- Remove the lever from the top part of manifold, it will just pop off. The bottom part has probably already fallen off but if it has not it will also just pop off like the top

- Remove 3 T27 bolts, the bottom most is the most difficult of the 3

- Push the IMT motor towards the back of the engine and then pull it up and unplug the electrical connector and then you can pull the IMT motor out

- Drill a 1/4鈥 hole into the bottom part of the lever, this is the side that has the knob. I cut the knob off and then drilled from the backside

- On top of the motor arm there is a part where is starts to round off, use the cutoff wheel to cut off the backside to make room for a nut and lock washer. I used a razor blade to cut a line to better show where to cut off

- put 2 washers onto the 1/4鈥 bolt and slide them through the lever and into the IMT motor arm and attach lock washer and nut to secure.

- add blue locktite so the nut doesnt come off over time

- tighten so the bolt is snug but still allows the lever to move. If you over tighten the you will get a code for performance valve is stuck open. - P2070

- reverse the steps 1-3 to reinstall IMT motor with lever assembly

Ive been driving with this repair to my cruze for about 10k miles to ensure it does work and the code has not come back since.

Edit: Have been driving with this fix for 2+ years with no issues and still holding strong!
Is it okay to follow all of this but use 3/4 everything instead?
 
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