This is my second time pulling this pig so Ill try and give some hints/tips. The trans is going back in, in a week or two so Ill have some install pics then.
You don't need any special tools, this is really common sense stuff. You can do this on the ground, or much more easily, on a lift. A 2 post lift with a trans jack and support jack would be the ideal setup.
Parts needed for clutch/flywheel replacement. Ill discuss my clutch/flywheel opinion in post #3
-Clutch/Pressure plate obviously (OEM or aftermarket)
-Flywheel (match this to your clutch, OEM or aftermarket)
-(optional) New slave cylinder (if it leaks or breaks, replace it)
-(optional) new throwout bearing (if this has play or feels worn, replace it).
-Both of these ^ I would replace if youre over 100k. I have 50k and reused both with no issues.
-DOT 3 brake fluid to top off reservoir and bleed the slave
-3qts of good MT fluid. Amsoil, redline MT, or penzoil syncromesh.
-red loctite for PP bolts
-(6x) NEW flywheel bolts. GM #: 55559650
-(6x) NEW pressure plate bolts (SPEC kits do not include either of these). GM #: 90470712
-misc shop supplies like rags and gloves etc, common sense stuff
Tools
-Jack/jack stands
-A GOOD torque wrench that reads a mimimum of 20ft lbs and angles.
-10, 13, 15, and 18 and 21mm sockets. Long extensions and wobble sockets or Ujoints are highly reccomended
-7, 13, 15, and 18mm ratcheting wrenches help for tight spaces.
-T20 and a T45 torx bits (IIRC) for the flywheel bolts
-Large allen key set (Dont recall size, it's for the drain/fill plugs)
-Big pry bar and a BFH
-misc flat head screw drivers/picks for prying harnesses and clips out
-Etorx sockets, or 12pt sockets if this is a sloppy build :grin:
-Food and beer or beverages of choice
-(optional but recommended) A friend, whom you bribe with above food/beverages :grin:
Removal
I don't have pics but here's a time lapse tear down. Install pics will be up in post #2 soon.
Start by putting it on jack stands and pulling the front wheels, then starting in the engine bay:
-Pull the battery and battery box. 10mm for the terminal studs, 13mm but holds the box in place. Tuck the fuse tray/wires towards the coolant res.
-Pull the harnesses off the battery box, and the 3 main ECU plugs: Pop the red clip out, and the outer shell of the connector will swing over, and the connector slides outward simultaneously.
-Remove the ground wire from the body post (good time to upgrade the main negative cable), unclip the current sensor, and pull the battery tray out.
-Remove both shifter linkage cables from the trans. These take some persuasion getting off, but don't force anything with a 3' cheater bar.
-Unbolt the shifter linkage bracket, 2 15mm bolts. Tuck the linkage/bracket out of the way towards the firewall
-unclip ALL the connectors (3 i believe) connected to the trans. They will have harnesses and brackets bolted to the trans as well, each bracket has a 13mm bolt.
Now move onto the bottom of the car
-Start by draining the fluid out of the trans. Do it now before you forget.
-Then pull all the plastic splash guards under the motor/trans. I've got an eco, not sure if other models are any different:
-There's one main piece, the two small pieces near the fenders, and one under the bumper. Careful pry out the push pins, a couple picks is HIGHLY reccomended. Flat heads will just break these things.
-remove any 7mm and T20 torx screws holding the plastic on. Theres 2 in each fender-well as well.
-Unclip ALL harnesses along the subframe. There are a few, like the ABS sensors, that are popped in place every 8" or so along the rails.
-Pull the two trans mount bolts, these are just long 18mm bolts.
-IF POSSIBLE: Pull the downpipe AND the midpipe. Each connection has 3 nuts, and a gasket, you also have to unclip the downstream 02 sensor, but it can stay installed.
-If yours is too rusted like mine, remove the 3 nuts at the downpipe, and let the exhaust droop. Its a PITA to work around but I didn't feel like welding new studs, or replacing them in the midpipe.
-Remove the 2 15mm bolts holding the exhaust crossmber on. Loosen the 2 13mm bolts about halfway so you can thread them by hand when you drop the subframe.
-Unbolt the upper sway bar links at the strut. Turn the nut with a ratcheting 18mm while you hold it with a T35 (IIRC). Pop them out of the strut and let them chill in the fenders for now.
-Unbolt the power steering rack from the subframe. 18mm bolts and nuts, the bolts will drop out the bottom. DONT forget about the washers that sit on top of the rack, yes there are 2 washers per bolt/nut.
-Unbolt the lower control arms from the struts. Its a 15mm bolt and nut. Use a pry bar to carefully pry the lower balljoints/arms out. Use a BFH to gently hammer them out to get them started, don't go bananas on the lower arms though.
-Using bungee cords or other supports, prep the radiator/condensor/IC for removal. The subframe holds this assembly in place, without support it will only be hanging by coolant/charge pipes.
-Good stopping point for a beer/smoke/whatever. Heavy lifting is up next.
-Get your friend handy to drop the subframe. Theres 4 21mm bolts holding it on. Loosen all 4, then remove the front 2 bolts and let it sit on some jackstands.
-Get ready for the rear of the subframe.. Remove the 2 13mm exhaust xmember bolts, let the exhaust droop, then pull the 21mm subframe bolts. While your buddy holds the subframe up slightly, remove the 4 (2 on each side) 13mm sway bar mount bolts. Once these are out, carefully drop the subframe out of the way, the P/S rack will hang in place CAREFULLY. Don't yank the subframe out and accidentally catch the P/S rack on the way down.
-The sway bar will now be just sitting on the P/S rack, pull it out.
-Double check the radiator assembly is still supported by bungees.
-Pop the passenger CV shaft out of the trans. Careful prybar work or a tap from a BFH will pop them right out. They are held in with retaining spring clips inside the spider gears of the trans.
-The drivers side CV has a retaining plate to remove. These are 4 Etorx bolts, I used a 12pt socket with no issues. Very snug fit, did not strip at all. Once the plate is unbolted, carefully pry it away from the trans and pop the shaft out.
-Remove both trans mount brackets, the rear has 3 15mm bolts, the front has 2 15mm bolts (these are also bellhousing bolts)
-Remove all lower bellhousing bolts, there will only be 3 left and they are on the top. These are a weird assortment of 18mm, 15mm, and etorx. Don't touch the oil pan or starter bolts, etc etc.
-Don't lose the small metal shield/gaurd near the starter, it must be reinstalled with the bell housing bolts.
Back up top
-Double check everything is disconnected from the trans, mechanically or electronically. It should only be held on by the upper trans mount, and the 3 upper bellhousing bolts.
-Get your cherry picker ready, or your buddy who is probably laughing by now at your dumbass for buying a Cruze.
-Crack the last 3 18mm bellhousing bolts loose, but leave them snugged in place.
-Get your jack and piece of wood ready, just lightly preload it under the oil pan.
-Remove the 3 upper trans mount bolts, 15mm. Then remove the other 3 trans mount bracket bolts on the frame, and put the bracket aside. The trans will shift/drop a bit here, dont worry, the jack will support both under the oil pan.
-If using an engine hoist, reinstall one of the 15mm bolts into the trans mount boss with a chain.
-SLOWLY and carefully let the motor tilt over towards the drivers side. It cannot be removed level, it will hit the frame.
-Unbolt the last 3 bellhousing bolts, get your buddy or engine hoist ready, and CAREFULLY pull the trans away from the motor and down to the floor.
-Pull the 6 pressure plate bolts (etorx again). There are also 6 flywheel bolts (torx, T45 IIRC). Carefully put a prybar between the block and the ring gear to keep the flywheel from spinning. These are on there pretty tight.
You don't need any special tools, this is really common sense stuff. You can do this on the ground, or much more easily, on a lift. A 2 post lift with a trans jack and support jack would be the ideal setup.
Parts needed for clutch/flywheel replacement. Ill discuss my clutch/flywheel opinion in post #3
-Clutch/Pressure plate obviously (OEM or aftermarket)
-Flywheel (match this to your clutch, OEM or aftermarket)
-(optional) New slave cylinder (if it leaks or breaks, replace it)
-(optional) new throwout bearing (if this has play or feels worn, replace it).
-Both of these ^ I would replace if youre over 100k. I have 50k and reused both with no issues.
-DOT 3 brake fluid to top off reservoir and bleed the slave
-3qts of good MT fluid. Amsoil, redline MT, or penzoil syncromesh.
-red loctite for PP bolts
-(6x) NEW flywheel bolts. GM #: 55559650
-(6x) NEW pressure plate bolts (SPEC kits do not include either of these). GM #: 90470712
-misc shop supplies like rags and gloves etc, common sense stuff
Tools
-Jack/jack stands
-A GOOD torque wrench that reads a mimimum of 20ft lbs and angles.
-10, 13, 15, and 18 and 21mm sockets. Long extensions and wobble sockets or Ujoints are highly reccomended
-7, 13, 15, and 18mm ratcheting wrenches help for tight spaces.
-T20 and a T45 torx bits (IIRC) for the flywheel bolts
-Large allen key set (Dont recall size, it's for the drain/fill plugs)
-Big pry bar and a BFH
-misc flat head screw drivers/picks for prying harnesses and clips out
-Etorx sockets, or 12pt sockets if this is a sloppy build :grin:
-Food and beer or beverages of choice
-(optional but recommended) A friend, whom you bribe with above food/beverages :grin:
Removal
I don't have pics but here's a time lapse tear down. Install pics will be up in post #2 soon.
Start by putting it on jack stands and pulling the front wheels, then starting in the engine bay:
-Pull the battery and battery box. 10mm for the terminal studs, 13mm but holds the box in place. Tuck the fuse tray/wires towards the coolant res.
-Pull the harnesses off the battery box, and the 3 main ECU plugs: Pop the red clip out, and the outer shell of the connector will swing over, and the connector slides outward simultaneously.
-Remove the ground wire from the body post (good time to upgrade the main negative cable), unclip the current sensor, and pull the battery tray out.
-Remove both shifter linkage cables from the trans. These take some persuasion getting off, but don't force anything with a 3' cheater bar.
-Unbolt the shifter linkage bracket, 2 15mm bolts. Tuck the linkage/bracket out of the way towards the firewall
-unclip ALL the connectors (3 i believe) connected to the trans. They will have harnesses and brackets bolted to the trans as well, each bracket has a 13mm bolt.
Now move onto the bottom of the car
-Start by draining the fluid out of the trans. Do it now before you forget.
-Then pull all the plastic splash guards under the motor/trans. I've got an eco, not sure if other models are any different:
-There's one main piece, the two small pieces near the fenders, and one under the bumper. Careful pry out the push pins, a couple picks is HIGHLY reccomended. Flat heads will just break these things.
-remove any 7mm and T20 torx screws holding the plastic on. Theres 2 in each fender-well as well.
-Unclip ALL harnesses along the subframe. There are a few, like the ABS sensors, that are popped in place every 8" or so along the rails.
-Pull the two trans mount bolts, these are just long 18mm bolts.
-IF POSSIBLE: Pull the downpipe AND the midpipe. Each connection has 3 nuts, and a gasket, you also have to unclip the downstream 02 sensor, but it can stay installed.
-If yours is too rusted like mine, remove the 3 nuts at the downpipe, and let the exhaust droop. Its a PITA to work around but I didn't feel like welding new studs, or replacing them in the midpipe.
-Remove the 2 15mm bolts holding the exhaust crossmber on. Loosen the 2 13mm bolts about halfway so you can thread them by hand when you drop the subframe.
-Unbolt the upper sway bar links at the strut. Turn the nut with a ratcheting 18mm while you hold it with a T35 (IIRC). Pop them out of the strut and let them chill in the fenders for now.
-Unbolt the power steering rack from the subframe. 18mm bolts and nuts, the bolts will drop out the bottom. DONT forget about the washers that sit on top of the rack, yes there are 2 washers per bolt/nut.
-Unbolt the lower control arms from the struts. Its a 15mm bolt and nut. Use a pry bar to carefully pry the lower balljoints/arms out. Use a BFH to gently hammer them out to get them started, don't go bananas on the lower arms though.
-Using bungee cords or other supports, prep the radiator/condensor/IC for removal. The subframe holds this assembly in place, without support it will only be hanging by coolant/charge pipes.
-Good stopping point for a beer/smoke/whatever. Heavy lifting is up next.
-Get your friend handy to drop the subframe. Theres 4 21mm bolts holding it on. Loosen all 4, then remove the front 2 bolts and let it sit on some jackstands.
-Get ready for the rear of the subframe.. Remove the 2 13mm exhaust xmember bolts, let the exhaust droop, then pull the 21mm subframe bolts. While your buddy holds the subframe up slightly, remove the 4 (2 on each side) 13mm sway bar mount bolts. Once these are out, carefully drop the subframe out of the way, the P/S rack will hang in place CAREFULLY. Don't yank the subframe out and accidentally catch the P/S rack on the way down.
-The sway bar will now be just sitting on the P/S rack, pull it out.
-Double check the radiator assembly is still supported by bungees.
-Pop the passenger CV shaft out of the trans. Careful prybar work or a tap from a BFH will pop them right out. They are held in with retaining spring clips inside the spider gears of the trans.
-The drivers side CV has a retaining plate to remove. These are 4 Etorx bolts, I used a 12pt socket with no issues. Very snug fit, did not strip at all. Once the plate is unbolted, carefully pry it away from the trans and pop the shaft out.
-Remove both trans mount brackets, the rear has 3 15mm bolts, the front has 2 15mm bolts (these are also bellhousing bolts)
-Remove all lower bellhousing bolts, there will only be 3 left and they are on the top. These are a weird assortment of 18mm, 15mm, and etorx. Don't touch the oil pan or starter bolts, etc etc.
-Don't lose the small metal shield/gaurd near the starter, it must be reinstalled with the bell housing bolts.
Back up top
-Double check everything is disconnected from the trans, mechanically or electronically. It should only be held on by the upper trans mount, and the 3 upper bellhousing bolts.
-Get your cherry picker ready, or your buddy who is probably laughing by now at your dumbass for buying a Cruze.
-Crack the last 3 18mm bellhousing bolts loose, but leave them snugged in place.
-Get your jack and piece of wood ready, just lightly preload it under the oil pan.
-Remove the 3 upper trans mount bolts, 15mm. Then remove the other 3 trans mount bracket bolts on the frame, and put the bracket aside. The trans will shift/drop a bit here, dont worry, the jack will support both under the oil pan.
-If using an engine hoist, reinstall one of the 15mm bolts into the trans mount boss with a chain.
-SLOWLY and carefully let the motor tilt over towards the drivers side. It cannot be removed level, it will hit the frame.
-Unbolt the last 3 bellhousing bolts, get your buddy or engine hoist ready, and CAREFULLY pull the trans away from the motor and down to the floor.
-Pull the 6 pressure plate bolts (etorx again). There are also 6 flywheel bolts (torx, T45 IIRC). Carefully put a prybar between the block and the ring gear to keep the flywheel from spinning. These are on there pretty tight.