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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This weekend, I went against my own intuition and took a spray can to my 2 week old Chevy. I wanted to turn the gold on the emblems black as well as remove the "Cruze"and "LT" lettering. I think it turned out great!

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First, I first took off the lettering and here's how:
  • First, I simply warmed up the letters with a hair-dryer.
  • Once they become warmer, you will be able to wiggle them with your hand.
  • At this point, you can remove them one of two ways...
    • Twist the letter with your hand. They will eventually detach from the body of the car
    • If you cannot grip the letters well or prefer a different method, you can grab a hold of a piece of floss or fishing wire and slide it behind the letters when the glue is warm. They will pop off the same.
  • At this point, you will be left with the glue where the letters previously were. Peel off as much glue as you can with your hand. This makes the next step much easier. You may find that continuing to apply heat will help greatly.
  • To get the remaining glue off, I used Goof Off which is safe on painted surfaces. I just put some on an old t-shirt and lightly rubbed the remaining gunk until it was gone.
  • After the glue is off, you may see a shadow where the glue was, that is okay. Keep rubbing a bit.
  • Lastly, a coat of wax will polish and protect the paint. All in all it took me about 15-20 minutes.

Then I went to plasti dip my emblems. Be sure to practice before spraying your car.

First step is to tape off your car. Leave a big square around the emblem to make peeling easier. Add towels around the tape to prevent over spray. It WILL over spray. I even had a few specs on my C pillars.

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For 2015, Chevy moved the bowtie up in to the upper grill. This made it a big harder to tape so you can see that the tape got much closer to the center of the emblem. I tried to leave as much space as I could though.

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Once you have taped and covered the car, You will begin spraying. At this point, it is very important to move your hand swiftly and cover the entire square you have taped off. Even go over. I found the key was adding many thin coats. I tried to put thicker coats on the front but it ran and gunked up. It also did not keep the original texture of the emblem. Overall, I put on 7-9 coats front and back but they were very thin coats. I also only waited about 5-8 minutes between coats because after I sprayed, I put a fan on it to speed up the process.

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One tip for dipping is to try and spray from different angles. One coat may cover from a downward angle. One may be from an upper angel. This will help the dip stay connected. I noticed there was a gap between the dip on the chrome emblem border and the trunk lid. This would have made it harder to peel off together. Changing angles helped with this process.

Once I put all of my coats on, I let this round dry for about 20-30 minutes. That made it easier to peel off together.

When it came to peeling, I started by lifting the tape and that will get you an edge on your dip. I thought it may help to run over the border with an exacto-knife. DO NOT DO THIS. Plasti dip will lift on its own.

Once you have peeled, you may see over spray. Don't worry, it will come off. I was able to get everything by just rubbing it with a cloth. If you have trouble, you can use goof off or a similar product. I'll try to report back on the longevity of the dip. That has been one of my biggest worries. I may also be dipping more in the future so I'll be sure to throw up those pics!

Thanks for reading!


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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Real quick, I did in fact post this on a different sub the other day but I titled it terribly. I figured this would be easier for people to find if they were like me and tried to search something like "how to plasti dip..." or how to debadge their Cruze. Sorry if you have already seen this. I just moved it here to make it easier for others.

Cheers,
AJH
 

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Thanks for the write up, being done in march, and now October, how is the paint stuff holding up?

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