I’m not responsible for any damage to you or your Cruze if you attempt this. This is the way I’ve done it, and I’m not a mechanic, but I did reference the service manuals.
I’m in the process of adding heated seats, and while I guess maybe this could be done in the car, the seat comes out so easy, you’re crazy not to remove it and bring it inside.
Full pictures can be found at Shutterfly
I will try to link them to the steps as I develop this thread. Pics have been sorted on this site based on order in which they were taken as the seat came apart. Is there weren't file size limits here I would have directly uploaded
- Either disconnect the negative battery cable, or remove BOTH airbag fuses from the engine fuse box, and the Instrument panel fuse box. You can drive the car with the seat removed, but service airbag does come on the DIC, and the airbag lite is lit. From what I’ve researched the Inflatable restraint control and diagnostic module is still in the car, but with the seat removed you removed a significant number of circuits, side air bag, and pretensioner assembly, along with the occupancy presence sensor, and the occupancy presence module. I’m still limiting driving with it this way, but it appears that the diagnostic module controls all the inputs and outputs for the airbag system. This includes, 10 airbags, 4 seat belt pretensioner assemblies, the occupancy presence equipment in the passenger seat, and the multitude of Airbag sensors. I believe drivers airbags would still blow in a crash, but that’s my understanding of reviewing the circuits, so be careful.
- Actually the occupancy presence sensor is a cloth material on the top of the seat cushion. No one recommends heating this pad. I will not be putting a heater over it. I’ll be either installing the pad on the front bottom edge of the seat, or putting the bottom element in the seatback, and heating it all the way to the headrest.
- Remove the headrest. Using a cut coat hanger install it in the small hole on the left post of the headrest. While pushing in on the wire, and the other button on the other post push in with both, and pull up on the headrest. Gives more clearance to get the seat out.
- Now go over to the connection of the seat belts on the outboard side of the cushion, where the threaded webbing is attached to the seat pretensioner assembly.
- Using a thin metal blade access the hidden connection, start at the top, and move around the sides. You need something really thin, as this isn’t meant to ever come apart. I used a set of flat feeler gauges for a thin piece of metal that could be used as a pry tool. Yea I have trim removal tools, but it won’t help you, as the clearance here is less than 0.010 inches! The plug stays attached, don’t break the bottom. See pic
- Now you can remove the 10 mm bolt..
- Now the belt can be removed from the ABS pretensioner assembly. The assembly will come out with the seat.
- Move the seat all the way forward. Remove the two T-50 bolts. These are coated in blue Loctite, and while they come apart, they take a big tug with a 3/8”ratchet. I was working in the car with the doors closed. Winter and it’s cold outside! I actually used a ½” breaker bar to break the Loctite. I think this could be done with a 3/8” with better leverage, with the rear door open.
- Find the big round bar that goes across the bottom of the seat, this will be the lift point for everything you do.
- With the bolts removed, backrest all the way forward to dash, tip the seat forward from the rear. Careful, wires are still attached.
- Open the little door in the floor carpet. Look at the main electrical harness connector. Don’t pull out. Grasp the end of the connector closest to the dash and push forward to dash assembly with finger pressure. The connector will literally back out of the connection. If you’re pulling straight out you’re doing it wrong.
- Tie the connector to the bottom of the seat out of the way protected so as the seat is rocked around, it doesn’t break.
- Now tip the seat backward with the back of the headrest against the back seat. Look at what’s under there.
- I actually rotated the seat 90 degrees in the car, while the seat was balanced on the back legs of the seat.
- Holding with the bar under the seat with one hand, and the other around the back of the seat get it out.
- At this stage you can remove the seat, both the seat bottom ratchet assembly handle, and the backrest adjuster handle have similar hidden screws to what you dealt with on the seat belt connection assembly. Find a feeler gauge thickness that works, and go all the way around the connector. There will be an optimal point where the feeler gauge slips in deeper, this works a little better for prying, but it’s still a little touchy. I tried every screwdriver I have, including jewelry screwdrivers. There is no slot to remove these, it’s designed for a very flush clean appearance.