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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How-To: Replace 2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L Coolant/Water Outlet


Overview:
The coolant/water outlet on the 1.4L Turbo engine has a high rate of failure and typically begins to leak at the joint between the water outlet and the recovery tank hose. The repair involves replacement of both the water outlet and the recovery tank hose. The two should be replaced at the same time.


Tools Required:
- E10 Socket w/ ratchet
- Flathead screwdriver
- In-lb torque wrench (Available on Amazon.com)
- Hose clamp pliers (Available on Amazon.com) (Note: some people try to use pliers for these clamps, but doing so makes the job significantly more difficult. I recommend picking up this tool.
- A clean 1+ gallon bucket


Parts Required:
25193922 Coolant/Water Outlet (Available on Amazon.com)
13251447 Recovery Tank Hose (Available on Amazon.com)


Procedure:
Unless a coolant flush has been performed recently, it would be a good idea to flush the cooling system when this part is replaced. Begin first by draining the coolant, using the following tutorial: https://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/129-gen1-engine-transmission-tutorials/191514-how-2011-2016-cruze-antifreeze-coolant-flush.html#post2740610

Note: you will see some extra oil hose in this tutorial that go to my bypass filter. You will not have these hoses on your car, so don't be alarmed if you don't see them.

Remove the clip holding the recovery tank hose onto the water outlet and pull the recovery tank hose out.


Separate the recovery tank hose from the retaining clip shown here:


Using hose clamp pliers, remove the hose clamp at the connection between the recovery tank hose and the coolant reservoir, and remove the hose with a twisting motion.


Using hose clamp pliers, slide the hose clamp down the hose shown here, and remove the hose from the water outlet.


Disconnect the throttle body wire by sliding back the locking retainer (you can use a flathead screwdriver). Using a flathead screwdriver, loosen the intake hose and remove it from the throttle body as shown below. Not shown in this picture, I also removed the wiring connector from the sensor mounted to the top of the intake tube.


Disconnect the O2 sensor harness. You don't absolutely need to disconnect this, but it makes your job a bit easier to do so. There's a plastic retaining clip that you need to slide upward at the same time as you pull outward. This took me a bit of time to get off, but a bit of wiggling and pulling the retaining clip upward and it eventually came loose.


Using hose clamp pliers, slide the hose clamp down the radiator hose, and remove the radiator hose from the water outlet.


Disconnect the wiring connector that goes into the water outlet.


Using hose clamp pliers, slide the hose clamp down the heater core hose, and remove the heater core hose from the water outlet. This will be located underneath the throttle body.


Using the E10 socket, completely loosen the three bolts holding the water outlet.



Remove the water outlet. On mine, the gasket was stuck to the cylinder head. Remove the gasket, and wipe off the surface of the cylinder head to ensure it is free of debris.


Install the new water outlet and torque the E-10 bolts to 71 INCH-POUNDS.

The new recovery tank hose has a retaining clip on the end of the hose. Remove the retaining clip as shown with a screwdriver:



Reconnect all of the hoses and wiring connectors. Don't forget to put the retaining clip back onto the recovery tank hose once reinstalled.

Refill the cooling system through the coolant reservoir.
 

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Nice write-up. You seem to be referencing another tutorial on how to drain, but there's no link. And given the number of problems people have had getting all the air out, I can't help but think there's something missing on the refill.
 

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Nice write-up. You seem to be referencing another tutorial on how to drain, but there's no link. And given the number of problems people have had getting all the air out, I can't help but think there's something missing on the refill.
Didn't get a chance to post that one up last night. It's coming soon.

The air works its way out over time. There's no way to bleed the system so you kind of just have to drain, fill, and top off as needed.
 

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There is a radiator air bleed screw on the passenger side coolant tank of the radiator. Typically open that screw until coolant comes out with the engine off, then top off and circulate coolant.

Is your E-10 socket 3/8ths or 1/4"? Mines is 3/8" and made by Lisle. I think I'd have problems attempting to get on the bottom bolt based on your pictures.

I recently watched a youtube video on the 1.4L oil pan, and that requires a 1/4" E-10 that's thin. They are out there, but appear to be expensive. Maybe there's a cheaper alternative.

I hate the idea of just using a metric socket, even though the torque level is low.
 

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Hello:

I recently purchased a used 2012 Cruze with this issue. I replaced the Water outlet completely as shown with all new parts.
Now it is 2 weeks later and it is leaking again in the same location, the antifreeze seems to be leaking from around the metal keeper clip. I can push it down a tiny bit and the leak becomes more aggressive.

I will purchase and try another New water jacket assembly, but first i was wondering if there would be any down side to gluing (high temp epoxy) the ends together on this one that is leaking as it is faulty anyway? GM says not to any warranty on this (older) new part as it was installed.....
I could not see any o ring or anything damaged - does anyone know what the point of the removable hose connection is? What is the downside to glueing the pieces together? if i have to replace it anyway i might as well try it i figure?
 

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Thanks for this great writeup. I bought a Haynes manual thinking this would be in there...what a waste of money.

Why do you recommend replacing the recovery tank hose?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

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Since this is such a common problem, I'm urging everyone to call Chevrolet to file a complaint about this faulty part and and request that Chevrolet issue a "special coverage" for it. Once they receive enough complaints, they will issue a special coverage and reimburse everyone for parts and labor for this repair. Be sure and give them the part number (25193922) and the name "water outlet." Chevrolet customer service can be reached at 1-800-222-1020.
Good grief!

How much more do you intend to clutter the forum with the same, uh........information?

Expressed as a percentage of failure, relative to the huge number of members on this forum, this failure is not common enough to even be a bump on Chevys radar.

Yes, it happens, yes, it sucks, reading seven threads of identicle rant sucks more.

Rob
 

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Do you know what size our radiator hose is? I'm installing an aftermarket thermostat and I'm trying to find the correct size adapter
 

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the plastic nipple part of the hose has broken down in the part where it is held on by the Plastic Retaining Clip...why cant i just get a new hose and make the repair ??? the other part isnt the problem.. Why cant i just pull the metal Clip and pull up that piece and dig out the broken part and install hose nipple back into it
 

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I went to replace the water outlet as it was leaking at the block. When I went to reinstall the new one I discovered the bottom right hole in the block was stripped out. Is this a M6x1 and would you recommend using a helicoil to repair? Thanks for any feedback.
 

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Here are some things I'd like to add after doing the water outlet myself. Perhaps they can get merged into the main write up.

You may be able to skip removing the white/purple/black throttle body wire (mine didn't come off easily). It seems the only reason to remove it is to reach the throttle body intake hose clamp. I just reached a screwdriver around the wire to disconnect the clamp.

I REALLY wish there was a way to remove the throttle body intake hose since it's always in the way. I rotated it 90 degrees counter clockwise and wedged it in front of the engine. I don't recommend doing this because it's really stiff and you'll be putting a lot of torque on it, so do it carefully if at all.

The blue O2 sensor wire has a junction which is connected to the top of the water outlet by a clip. Disconnect it by sliding the boxy junction down off the clip.
O2 sensor holder 3.jpg

As XR described, you can disconnect the junction with the "plastic retaining clip that you need to slide upward at the same time as you pull outward." Here's a picture of that process.
O2 sensor holder 4.jpg

Even though you've drained coolant from the radiator, there's still about one cup of coolant in the engine. When you remove the water outlet, that coolant will dump out everywhere. One option for catching that is to have a large plastic sheet or tub under the engine since it will drip down from the front and back of the engine. A better option is to lay some clever plastic sheet under the water outlet, catching and diverting the coolant to a cup under the car, then carefully remove the water outlet sensor so the coolant flows out its small hole.

After removing the water outlet, you may need to take the O2 sensor wire clip from the old outlet and move it to the new outlet. Use pliers to press in the wings on the back of the clip, then push it out through the hole. Be careful, it may be fragile due to age. Insert it into the new water outlet. To reattach the O2 sensor wire, slide the junction on to the clip up from the bottom.
O2 sensor holder 1.jpg O2 sensor holder 2.jpg
 

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I just noticed a small coolant leak tonight. My wife took the Cruze and while she was gone I noticed DexCool on the floor of the garage. When she got home I checked it out and it dripped about half a teaspoon pretty much under the turbo. But I couldn't figure out where the source was. Does this sound like the water outlet and related? I think I see a path between the outlet and where it's dripping but I want to be sure before I buy parts and do the repair. I plan to keep the reservoir full and watch the leak for a bit, but I'm also nervous since I've read several posts about catastrophic failures where all the coolant leaks out.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just noticed a small coolant leak tonight. My wife took the Cruze and while she was gone I noticed DexCool on the floor of the garage. When she got home I checked it out and it dripped about half a teaspoon pretty much under the turbo. But I couldn't figure out where the source was. Does this sound like the water outlet and related? I think I see a path between the outlet and where it's dripping but I want to be sure before I buy parts and do the repair. I plan to keep the reservoir full and watch the leak for a bit, but I'm also nervous since I've read several posts about catastrophic failures where all the coolant leaks out.
I would check for wetness around the water outlet first before you go off replacing it, but it's a high rate of failure part so it very well may be the source of your problem.
 

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I just noticed a small coolant leak tonight. My wife took the Cruze and while she was gone I noticed DexCool on the floor of the garage. When she got home I checked it out and it dripped about half a teaspoon pretty much under the turbo. But I couldn't figure out where the source was. Does this sound like the water outlet and related? I think I see a path between the outlet and where it's dripping but I want to be sure before I buy parts and do the repair. I plan to keep the reservoir full and watch the leak for a bit, but I'm also nervous since I've read several posts about catastrophic failures where all the coolant leaks out.
I would check for wetness around the water outlet first before you go off replacing it, but it's a high rate of failure part so it very well may be the source of your problem.
Yeah, I drove it to work today and there’s a bit of wetness on the outlet and it’s wet on bottom side of large radiator hose. Think I might have found my leak.

I’ve seen some indications that the dorman part might be upgraded with more reinforcement at the neck vs the OEM delco? Any truth to that?
 

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There is a radiator air bleed screw on the passenger side coolant tank of the radiator. Typically open that screw until coolant comes out with the engine off, then top off and circulate coolant.

Is your E-10 socket 3/8ths or 1/4"? Mines is 3/8" and made by Lisle. I think I'd have problems attempting to get on the bottom bolt based on your pictures.

I recently watched a youtube video on the 1.4L oil pan, and that requires a 1/4" E-10 that's thin. They are out there, but appear to be expensive. Maybe there's a cheaper alternative.

I hate the idea of just using a metric socket, even though the torque level is low.
Actually I've gotten some of these off with a 5/16" box end, I think it was 5/16". I'm sure a 1/4 drive would work in the same way. In the tighter places anyways, and may not work great for torquing heavy load, but 71 in-lbs is like 8 ft-lbs I think. That's kinda like the second it feels tight its 8+. Maybe I'm a hack, but you gotta do what you gotta do sometimes. Hope it helps!
 

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Quick question for anyone regarding the coolant flush step....

If I'm just wanting to replace the water outlet, do I need to drain the entire coolant system? Can I partially drain the system - or not even worry draining it and just remove the hoses from the water outlet (and expect some amount of coolant to run out)?

I read another post somewhere that even after draining the coolant system, about a cup of coolant will still come out the block when you remove the water outlet.

EDIT - I did not drain any coolant. I just undid the hoses and made a mess under the car in the garage. Also swapped out the stock hose clamps (spring-type) with some stainless screw-type clamps. Not that I plan to do this again - but should make it a bit easier if I ever do. For the record, I have just under 100,000 miles (99,nnn) on the car and recently started to see a little seepage from the front hoses on the water outlet which has required me to top off the coolant. I did not find any visible cracks after removing the water outlet like most people see. The plastic nipple on the recovery tank hose did break while removing it (I did this after the unit was removed from the car so it was either already broken or really brittle). I will watch to make sure the radiator hoses are ok since I did not see a visible crack on the water outlet like I expected. The hoses seemed ok when I had them disconnected.

Thanks to all that have posted help in this thread! Another very useful thread that made for a simple repair.
 

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Thanks for all of the discussion. I replaced the outlet and the over flow hose to recovery tank. Still the
O-ring seeps when the engine heats up. What can I do short of trying new parts again? I used AC delco parts. Very frustrted!
 

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Thanks for all of the discussion. I replaced the outlet and the over flow hose to recovery tank. Still the
O-ring seeps when the engine heats up. What can I do short of trying new parts again? I used AC delco parts. Very frustrted!
Welcome Aboard!(y)

If you are talking about the cap o-ring, just replace it.

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.
 
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