How-To: Replace CPASV (Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve) Seals
How-To: Replace CPASV (Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve) Seals
Overview:
Yes, I needed to make up an acronym for this one. Moving forward, let's just refer to them as CPASV seals. I found these seeping on my 2012 Cruze at 58,000 miles when I noticed a slight oil loss (about 4oz in 7,000 miles). The area under them on the side of the block was a bit wet. You won't need more than half an hour from start to finish to replace these.
Tools Required:
- In-lb torque wrench (Available on Amazon.com)
- E10 socket and ratchet
- 10mm socket
- Flathead screwdriver
- Shop towel/rag
Part Required:
GM part number: 2 x 55592715 (Available on Amazon.com)
Procedure:
If you don't have an in-lb torque wrench, I'd recommend getting one before starting. They're under $40 shipped on Amazon or Harbor Freight.
Disconnect the battery ground. You will need to cut power to the engine when disconnecting sensors or the PCM will throw the fans into limp mode. 10mm socket to loosen the nut.
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Optional: Remove the air intake box. I had the K&N intake, so I had plenty of space without needing to remove the intake. At minimum, disconnecting the MAF sensor gives you more working space.
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Disconnect CPASV wiring. Use a flathead screwdriver in a gentle twisting motion to slide back the gray tab. Then, press down on the tab while pulling the socket outward to disconnect.
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Remove the two E10 bolts on each CPASV as pictured.
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Being careful not to exert excessive pressure on the plastic socket attached to the CPASV, pull it out with a gentle rotating back and forth motion. Mine came out very easily.
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Use your shop towel/rag to wipe the mating surface of the block and its seal.
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Remove the old seal. If it's stuck, you can gently pry it with a screwdriver, being careful not to scratch or nick the metal surface. This will slide right off.
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Wipe off the mating surface of the CPASV, and install new seal.
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Reinstall CPASV and torque bolts to 71 in-lb, NOT ft-lb.
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Repeat for the other CPASV, and top off oil as needed.
Reconnect battery ground.
Adjust torque wrench back down to zero position for storage.
Overview:
Yes, I needed to make up an acronym for this one. Moving forward, let's just refer to them as CPASV seals. I found these seeping on my 2012 Cruze at 58,000 miles when I noticed a slight oil loss (about 4oz in 7,000 miles). The area under them on the side of the block was a bit wet. You won't need more than half an hour from start to finish to replace these.
Tools Required:
- In-lb torque wrench (Available on Amazon.com)
- E10 socket and ratchet
- 10mm socket
- Flathead screwdriver
- Shop towel/rag
Part Required:
GM part number: 2 x 55592715 (Available on Amazon.com)
Procedure:
If you don't have an in-lb torque wrench, I'd recommend getting one before starting. They're under $40 shipped on Amazon or Harbor Freight.
Disconnect the battery ground. You will need to cut power to the engine when disconnecting sensors or the PCM will throw the fans into limp mode. 10mm socket to loosen the nut.
Optional: Remove the air intake box. I had the K&N intake, so I had plenty of space without needing to remove the intake. At minimum, disconnecting the MAF sensor gives you more working space.
Disconnect CPASV wiring. Use a flathead screwdriver in a gentle twisting motion to slide back the gray tab. Then, press down on the tab while pulling the socket outward to disconnect.
Remove the two E10 bolts on each CPASV as pictured.
Being careful not to exert excessive pressure on the plastic socket attached to the CPASV, pull it out with a gentle rotating back and forth motion. Mine came out very easily.
Use your shop towel/rag to wipe the mating surface of the block and its seal.
Remove the old seal. If it's stuck, you can gently pry it with a screwdriver, being careful not to scratch or nick the metal surface. This will slide right off.
Wipe off the mating surface of the CPASV, and install new seal.
Reinstall CPASV and torque bolts to 71 in-lb, NOT ft-lb.
Repeat for the other CPASV, and top off oil as needed.
Reconnect battery ground.
Adjust torque wrench back down to zero position for storage.
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Xtreme-
Was one leaking more than the other? I noticed some black crud under the back cam. I think that's the intake side. Front one seems to be relatively dry. I'm at 49,000 on my 2012.
I also noted that disconnecting the Air Temperature sensor changing the air filter caused the radiator fans to go into hyper active mode. Turning the car off and restarting made it go away, but it was extremely scary. Sounded like a jet engine going off.
Was one leaking more than the other? I noticed some black crud under the back cam. I think that's the intake side. Front one seems to be relatively dry. I'm at 49,000 on my 2012.
I also noted that disconnecting the Air Temperature sensor changing the air filter caused the radiator fans to go into hyper active mode. Turning the car off and restarting made it go away, but it was extremely scary. Sounded like a jet engine going off.
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Nice write up. I noticed a bit of seeping on both of my CPASV seals as well. In my case, I loosened the bolts and re-torqued them down. No leaks from them yet in the past 1000 miles.
As a side note, the alldatadiy service manual lists 71 in-lbs for my CPASV bolts for my 2013 1.4T. Maybe the spec was changed from 2012-2013 Cruze?
As a side note, the alldatadiy service manual lists 71 in-lbs for my CPASV bolts for my 2013 1.4T. Maybe the spec was changed from 2012-2013 Cruze?
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14,726 Posts
Not sure if one was leaking more. At $22 shipped for the pair, I wasn't going to replace just one.
The hyperactive fans are the reason I recommended disconnecting the battery, although that's a good habit to get into when working on cars anyway.
I'm sure it is covered, but 20 minutes driving round trip, having to pull child seats in and out twice, spending an hour at the dealer...didn't sound like a good use of my time when the seals cost $23 and change shipped to my door. Plus, I had the opportunity to make the writeup for 2011 owners that are now coming out of warranty and anyone else who finds it more cost effective to replace them themselves.
I figured if they're leaking, they could be replaced. As for. The torque spec, you may be right. I was given this spec from a GM tech. I'm not sure why there's a discrepancy. They don't need to be on there very right so I'm sure either torque spec works. I'll update the post to the lower spec.
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2,066 Posts
Setting your torque wrench to zero is the proper way of storing one? Thats the first I have heard of that.
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14,726 Posts
I didn't even bother checking rockauto for these. Good idea. Shipping was more than the cost of the gaskets on GMPD.
The key is to search Rockauto by part number, not by the car catalog with an attempt to figure out the category. Most of this OEM AcDelco stuff is very poorly organized in the catalog. I noticed they have the turbo oil feed line as well, but shipping on that seems very high. I believe that's listed as an exhaust. Maybe someone would look there, but it's not obvious.
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As always, great post XtremeRevolution! Superb photos.
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Just did this and took about 1/2 hour. I do have a CAI so made it that much easier. Thanks XR, I don't think I would have attempted this repair not knowing what was under those cpasv's. A good notification these are leaking is a wet alternator casing. That's what caught my attention.
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4 Posts
Great right up
Been debating if this was a job in could try myself or not.
Lack of knowing what was behind the cover had be worried but after reading this i will be ordering the parts as soon as I finish typing this
Thanks again
Been debating if this was a job in could try myself or not.
Lack of knowing what was behind the cover had be worried but after reading this i will be ordering the parts as soon as I finish typing this
Thanks again
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14,726 Posts
Fixed broken links. I hate photobucket.
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235 Posts
This is for 1.4L.
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Will this work with the 1.8L N.A engine? Or does anyone have a part# for the 1.8?
I just made a comment in another thread this morning that refers to the amount of your posts that I recommend for reading when someone has an issue. I think I said 75%, so now you made a liar out of me as it is now 78% due to you constantly breaking your Cruze in order to write up new How To:'s.
Stop being so mean to the Cruze, stop it I say!
Thanks again for a good write-up, another to add to the collection.
Stop being so mean to the Cruze, stop it I say!
Thanks again for a good write-up, another to add to the collection.
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