How-To: Replace CPASV (Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve) Seals
Yes, I needed to make up an acronym for this one. Moving forward, let's just refer to them as CPASV seals. I found these seeping on my 2012 Cruze at 58,000 miles when I noticed a slight oil loss (about 4oz in 7,000 miles). The area under them on the side of the block was a bit wet. You won't need more than half an hour from start to finish to replace these.
- In-lb torque wrench (Available on Amazon.com
- E10 socket and ratchet
- 10mm socket
- Flathead screwdriver
- Shop towel/rag
GM part number: 2 x 55592715 (Available on Amazon.com
If you don't have an in-lb torque wrench, I'd recommend getting one before starting. They're under $40 shipped on Amazon or Harbor Freight.
Disconnect the battery ground. You will need to cut power to the engine when disconnecting sensors or the PCM will throw the fans into limp mode. 10mm socket to loosen the nut.
Optional: Remove the air intake box. I had the K&N intake, so I had plenty of space without needing to remove the intake. At minimum, disconnecting the MAF sensor gives you more working space.
Disconnect CPASV wiring. Use a flathead screwdriver in a gentle twisting motion to slide back the gray tab. Then, press down on the tab while pulling the socket outward to disconnect.
Remove the two E10 bolts on each CPASV as pictured.
Being careful not to exert excessive pressure on the plastic socket attached to the CPASV, pull it out with a gentle rotating back and forth motion. Mine came out very easily.
Use your shop towel/rag to wipe the mating surface of the block and its seal.
Remove the old seal. If it's stuck, you can gently pry it with a screwdriver, being careful not to scratch or nick the metal surface. This will slide right off.
Wipe off the mating surface of the CPASV, and install new seal.
Reinstall CPASV and torque bolts to 71 in-lb
, NOT ft-lb
Repeat for the other CPASV, and top off oil as needed.
Reconnect battery ground.
Adjust torque wrench back down to zero position for storage.