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How-To: Replace Defrost Gear Gen 1

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air vents
113K views 31 replies 19 participants last post by  Blasirl 
#1 ·
I noticed a few days ago that 2012 lt want pushing air out of the defrost. It only works on the front vents and floor vents.

BIG PROBLEM to say the least.

I've read where this topic has been covered previously but with resolutions that did not work for me. I disconnected the battery multiple times for at least a minute (my radio reset). I even removed the fuse for about 30 second, still no cake.

So what happens is when i switch it to defrost mode, you can hear the blower die down, some clicking (actuator most likely), then it will start blowing again. There no air at this point anywhere! Then it stops again, does the clicking again, and then starts blowing out of the front. It's like it knows somethings not right and automatically switched back to the front vents.

What this freak is going on here? Anyone have any suggestions?

The dealership is ignoring me, and i only have power train warranty with gm.

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#2 ·
So what happens is when i switch it to defrost mode, you can hear the blower die down, some clicking (actuator most likely), then it will start blowing again. There no air at this point anywhere! Then it stops again, does the clicking again, and then starts blowing out of the front.
I don't think it's supposed to click. I think that clicking is a damaged flapper mechanism. The motor is trying to drive it, but instead the gear is slipping.

What you can try is pull the air cabin filter. Apparently a lot of debris gets on top of it. Perhaps enough to cause problems.
 
#3 ·
I actually changed that cabin air filter about a month ago. It blows awesome out of the front vents and floor vents. Im able to switch between them too but the clicking im referring to also occurs there as well.


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#7 ·
By the look of that picture,you've found your air issue,as most others have said you have a stripped or broken drive gear,finding this has confirmed it,looks like your going dash searching,not sure about the 2012 models (I have a 2010 sedan)but the lower dash panels cab be easily removed,exposing all the drive gears for the venting(just use extreme care when doing so)I know my car still is able to be used with these panels missing,until you can get the part and replace it
 
#8 ·
Did you fix this?

I have the exact same issue and found the exact same broken piece on my drivers side floor yesterday when I went to put it in defrost. Came across this thread and saw the pic and said....AAAAAHHHHH, that's it.

Wondering if you were able to fix this and the location of the gear as I'm assuming it's under the driver side somewhere. Did you find schematics of the the Cruze? Mine is 2012.
 
#9 ·
Yes please update if you fixed this issue and how. I can't find info online ANYWHERE about this. I saw your picture and it's exactly what mine looks like too. To a T. It was -4 Fahrenheit here, and like an idiot I started the 2012 Chevy Cruze and immediately switched from the vents from dash to defrost. I heard a snap and that same half gear cheap peice of plastic as pictured above fell down onto the floor by my feet. Took it to the dealer today and they want $1000 to fix it! They said they would have to take apart the entire dash. Ugh. I hope there's a better way. Clearly the gears are exposed, hopefully it's an easy fix. My windshield gets extremely fogged up here in the winter. I've had to pull over it got so bad once. It's extremely dangerous.
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
I have the exact same broken piece. I believe it is the mode control lever (part #41 in the attached diagram). My guess is that I selected defrost mode before the car was heated up and the damper was frozen on one of the really cold days this winter. Therefore, the mode control actuator turned but gear #40 in the diagram could not because that is the gear connected to the defrost damper. The actuator apparently has enough torque to turn through a frozen gear and break the mode control lever which is a design flaw in my opinion. This part is tough to get to and most are saying that the entire instrument panel assembly needs to be removed in order to have access. I am going to try and just remove the lower panels and see if I can replace the lever that way because spending $1000 or more to replace this $5 part is ridiculous.

This should be recalled because it is a major safety concern not being able to see because the windshield is fogged up!
 

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#14 ·
E Roc, I was thinking the same because it's the only piece that fits in the diagram. Let me know if you can get to it or how difficult it is to get to without taking everything out. I definitely don't want to pay $1000 for this to be fixed. It's just in a terrible spot to try and get to. At this point I'd be happy just to get it manually moved to Defrost/Feet combined setting.

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#15 · (Edited)
So, I didn't have any luck being able to replace the part by removing the instrument gauge cluster or from the driver side footwell. Therefore, I went on to remove the entire dash. It took me and my friend about 8-9 hours from start to finish and we were extra careful when removing panels with panel removal tools which you will definitely need if you want to do this. It honestly wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be to remove the dash. There were a few parts that were more difficult than others, but still not that bad.

Once the dash it out of the car, there is access to the mode control cam, levers and gears. However, there isn't a lot of room to slide out the cam so it is difficult to align the levers properly to the gears. It is very important that they are lined up properly to allow full rotation of the cam. I have attached a few pictures for reference.

Vehicle Motor vehicle Car Auto part Automotive exterior
Auto part Gear Wheel
Auto part Technology
 
#16 · (Edited)
So, I didn't have any luck being able to replace the part by removing the instrument gauge cluster or from the driver side footwell. Therefore, I went on to remove the entire dash. It took me and my friend about 8-9 hours from start to finish and we were extra careful when removing panels with panel removal tools which you will definitely need if you want to do this. It honestly wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be to remove the dash. There were a few parts that were more difficult than others, but still not that bad.

Once the dash it out of the car, there is access to the mode control cam, levers and gears. However, there isn't a lot of room to slide out the cam so it is difficult to align the levers properly to the gears. It is very important that they are lined up properly to allow full rotation of the cam. I have attached a few pictures for reference.

View attachment 219282 View attachment 219290 View attachment 219298 View attachment 219306

I''m glad you were able to fix this and also learn how to dismember err dismantle your car at the same time.:th_dblthumb2:


Is it possible you could do a write up on the essential parts of this fix to help out the next guy. You could reference other post for the disassembly and add or subtract from that post and then get to the intricacies of the fix itself, the refer to that or another post for reassembly. It looks like you have the pictures to illustrate.

:whatdoyouthink:
 
#18 ·
Hi E Roc and everyone else. I have same problem in my cruze 2011. Its only defrost vent is not working. All other vents are working without any problem. When I press button of defrost vent it turn on front vents. What can I do. Anybody can guide me how to fix it or any alternative of this.
 
#19 ·
I had this problem occur in December here in Minnesota. Since I wasn't excited about spending eighteen hours removing the dash in an unheated garage I thought I would see if there was any possibility of fixing it by just removing the instrument cluster. It looked to me that while I could possibly remove the large outer gear, it would likely be impossible to re-install without the full dash removal. I noticed though that you can easily access the small gear attached to the defrost vent door and flip the door open and closed by hand. So I simply slipped a tie wrap around the vent door gear and a nearby plastic post and pulled it tight. Now the defrost is permanently on, which is fine for winter. This spring I may attempt the dash removal and do the full fix but wanted to let others know that you can get your defrost back with about 20 minutes of effort.
 
#20 · (Edited)
There is definitely as fix for the failing mode door actuator, to activate the defrost mode. Despite there being no information on this fix and only a temporary fix or taking apart the entire dash, I actually managed a permanent fix within 1 hour. This white/yellow part with the four teeth people find, is a broken piece from original part: GM product no. 13263335. Buy this part first and then watch YouTube video 'Chevy Cruze windshield defrost' that will tell you how to take part of your drivers side apart. This is a 10-20 minute job.

Now, instead of moving the little white gear wheel as a temporary fix (shown around the 5 minute mark in this video), you will do the following: stick your left arm through the left opening and grab the big large white gear wheel. Through the right opening, with a screw driver, push the plastic holder on the axle to make the white gear wheel come off its axle. With your left hand (still in the opening) grab the white wheel and pull it of its axle, but not completely that it will come off. Then reach behind the wheel with your same hand (all the work will be done with this LEFT hand, through the LEFT opening) and you will feel the other part of the the four teeth part that broke off (13263335). Feel how it will come off a little axle as well (therefore this part has a hole) and the nipple that will slide out the groove in the back if the big white gear wheel. Now, grab the new part and position it the same way, as the broken part came off. Feeling confident that it fits? It is only complete if you can push the big white gear wheel fully back on its axle and all falls into place. Now turn on your car and check if all buttons work and activate the correct wind stream. The gears will turn while you push each button. You can manipulate positions by turning the big gear, manually moving its position in relation to the axle. Do this until it rotates to the correct positions, leaving you with a fully functioning system again! If it pushing itself off the axle (you will hear a "pop"), that means you have to keep re-positioning it until it stays on the axle. I got this done in 20 minutes. Now put together the dash and done! Hope this helps!
 
#21 · (Edited)
There is definitely as fix for the failing mode door actuator, to activate the defrost mode. Despite there being no information on this fix and only a temporary fix or taking apart the entire dash, I actually managed a permanent fix within 1 hour. This white/yellow part with the four teeth people find, is a broken piece from original part: GM product no. 13263335. Buy this part first and then watch YouTube video 'Chevy Cruze windshield defrost' that will tell you how to take part of your drivers side apart. This is a 10-20 minute job.

Now, instead of moving the little white gear wheel as a temporary fix (shown around the 5 minute mark in this video), you will do the following: stick your left arm through the left opening and grab the big large white gear wheel. Through the right opening, with a screw driver, push the plastic holder on the axle to make the white gear wheel come off its axle.

With your left hand (still in the opening) grab the white wheel and pull it of its axle, but not completely that it will come off. Then reach behind the wheel with your same hand (all the work will be done with this LEFT hand, through the LEFT opening) and you will feel the other part of the the four teeth part that broke off (13263335). Feel how it will come off a little axle as well (therefore this part has a hole) and the nipple that will slide out the groove in the back if the big white gear wheel.

Now, grab the new part and position it the same way, as the broken part came off. Feeling confident that it fits? It is only complete if you can push the big white gear wheel fully back on its axle and all falls into place. Now turn on your car and check if all buttons work and activate the correct wind stream. The gears will turn while you push each button. You can manipulate positions by turning the big gear, manually moving its position in relation to the axle.

Do this until it rotates to the correct positions, leaving you with a fully functioning system again! If it pushing itself off the axle (you will hear a "pop"), that means you have to keep re-positioning it until it stays on the axle. I got this done in 20 minutes. Now put together the dash and done! Hope this helps!
Welcome Aboard!:welcome:

Sorry, I could not read that big block of text, my eyes were revolting.

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.

LEVER. AIR CONDITIONING (A/C) CONTROL. AIR DISTRIBUTOR.

 
#25 · (Edited)
Daughter's car had this problem,too. Found the gear piece on the floor in spring, and always wondered what it was.
Following Bart's instructions and that video made it easier to do this repair, and it does only take about a 1/2 hour.

After you remove the cluster (8 screws?!?), start the car and set your HVAC controls to defrost. Then turn the little white defrost driven gear until air is only coming from the defrost vents. I marked the top of this small white gear with a black marker so I could keep track of it's orientation (it likes to move back to a midpoint). The large white drive gear has a tab that should be pointing at roughly 10 o'clock when in defrost mode. This will make it easier to line everything up and get the bridge gear (thats what I call the part that broke) oriented correctly with the two other gears.

You'll then want to make the main wiring harness located behind the cluster "mobile" to give you more room, so pry the two clips holding the harness up off their posts. Just reset the harness and press the retainers back onto the posts when you are done, before you reinstall the cluster.

Bart talks about prying the large white drive gear back with a screwdriver. You shouldnt have to do that. I found that the large white drive gear has a small screw/strap combo at it's center that acts as a retainer. I unscrewed the screw back about 3/8" - just before it could fall out - but dont let it fall out! - and the gear then easily slides back just enough to remove/install the bridge gear behind it.

When installing the new bridge gear, first verify the little defrost driven gear is in its fully open condition (as I said, it can roll back), then sneak the new bridge gear over its post behind the large drive gear. The teeth of the bridge gear should be centered on the white defrost driven gear, and the little tit on the bridge gear needs to fall in the curving slot on the inside of the large white drive gear. You'll be able to feel it if its fit correctly.

Slide the drive gear back down its axle, and tighten the small retainer screw. If you dont have the bridge gear tit located correctly, the drive gear wont fully reseat, and it will "skip" and chatter when you test the different modes before you put the cluster back in. Always test your modes! You'll recognize it when you see it if you dont have it correct. If that happens, just go back in, start over, and reset the bridge gear. Took me a couple times before I got it right.

One thing I have noticed about Cruzes is that when you are in full defrost mode, you do still get a small amount of air thru the floor vents, and vice versa. I think that may be by design?
Anyways, air goes where it should now. Another relatively easy fix.

Thanks again, Bart. :)
 
#26 · (Edited)
Great information here!

I just finished this job on my wife's 2012 LT.

Some tips would be get a 5.5mm socket, if your set doesn't have one. And a flexible extension, it helps a lot getting to the screw on the gear. I had some trouble getting it all back together, but got lucky on the orientation of the defrost flap. It worked perfect!

The key is to be very aware where the track on the white gear is. I had trouble until I did. You must orient the pin on the replacement gear to go in the slot while still placing it on the post and the defrost flap gear. Like mentioned above you cannot seat the white gear unless all that occurs. I do believe that if you got the defrost gear wrong you probably can fix that by pulling the gears straight out and using a pick or narrow screw driver to move it to a different position and push the gears back. That defrost flap gear only moves about 1/8 of a turn, if that. So there are not many places it could be.

As for the cable bundle, there is another hold down directly to the right of the opening. That gives even more play in moving it out of the way.

I bought the white gear and 2 of the replacement wedge shaped gears. It is used on the other side too, but if it is not broken, I am not going to deal with it. The white gear will not be removable due to the the lack of space near the bottom. However, since I have spare parts I will include a photo of the two together. The orientation is not exact but it is a view you normally can't see with the stuff in the car.
 

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#27 · (Edited)
Old thread, but I'm hoping someone can help. I'm working on this fix right now, and I don't seem to be able to get the timing right on the little gears. The new black part has a little tit that rides on the white gear...do both of those **** go in the same track nearer the center, or does one go around the outside?

UPDATE: 3 hrs later, I answered my own question. The small plastic nubs (Since the forum doesn't like the other word) DO ride in the same channel. I haven't found anything on here regarding how to time the gears that made sense to me, so here's my take: The small white gears only rotate a small amount either way, and you have to engage the teeth on the end of the lever so that the lever can rotate either way just enough. On my car, there is a small molded in protrusion on the main housing that is just the right place to align the lever/gear teeth at mid-point of the rotation. I'm not sure who put together the video linked below, but he does a pretty good job. Explanation in the video at about 3:40.
Youtube video with a good explanation. I have to say, if you happen to have dainty little hands the job would be easier! I had to go at it from the top and below, and dropped/lost both levers multiple times before I got it all in and aligned. OH, and do NOT allow the little nubs on the lever to engage the outer ring in the large white gear, especially the lower gear. That was a two hour time suck trying to get it out of there and retrieved, then back in place.

I replaced both levers, although only the top one was broken. Now that I've done it I could probably do the next one in an hour or two. Today it was a good 5 hrs. I also found out that GM didn't improve their dash plastic at all since the last time I owned one. I busted off two of the little nubs that hold the metal clips in the center section (I wanted to see what it would take to repair the missing left/right actuators on the dash vents).
Next up: turbo oil supply line...
 
#28 ·
This thread is amazing. Thank you everyone for talking about it. Anyone know what size screw it is that holds in the white big round gear. Dropped mine into the abyss 😭

You guys are amazing. This thread has been amazing. thank you for sharing everything.

does anyone happen to know what size screw that is that holds the big white round gear? I dropped mine into the the abyss 😭
 
#29 · (Edited)
This thread is amazing. Thank you everyone for talking about it. Anyone know what size screw it is that holds in the white big round gear. Dropped mine into the abyss 😭

You guys are amazing. This thread has been amazing. thank you for sharing everything.

does anyone happen to know what size screw that is that holds the big white round gear? I dropped mine into the the abyss 😭
Welcome Aboard!(y)

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.

Sorry, I do not know.

I tried to find a diagram and a parts list, but this is the best I could find.


White Organism Mode of transport Art Font
 
#30 ·
This is my first time posting here but I wanted to let everyone know from the research that I have done the north American version of at least the 2011 cruze eco doesn't have a bolt and retainer for the main white CAM that actuates the arms so it may wobble a bit, I haven't found a fix for it yet but it seems that GM fixed that issue in the later years, for sure 2012 onward has the bolt and retainer for the gear, I've also attached photos for reference and you can see that on the 2013 model it has the threaded hole for the bolt and the retainer and on the 2011 that I am currently working on it doesn't have any way to add the bolt or the retainer even if I wanted to

 
#31 ·
Hi Everyone! This thread is great, seems that I have the same issue here on my 2018 Chevy Cruze. Noticed air only blows towards face, changing to any other location there isn't any airflow (defrost & feet positions). Since my car is newer, will the actuator levers (GM part # 13263335) still apply? Don't know if its universal across GM, couldn't find the levers on RockAuto specific to my 2018 year. Appreciate the feedback!
 
#32 · (Edited)
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