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Reverend Red Bull
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How To Replace Diesel Particulate Matter Sensor (Exhaust Particulate Sensor):

Rationale and Part Acquisition:

This job is frequently performed as a result of the code P24C6 or P24AE. The original part number on early-built 2014 Cruze Diesels is 12655962, but that has since been replaced by part number 12661098. Dealer list price for this sensor can be as high as $360, and it is available on a variety of GM parts sites for around $200, plus shipping. I obtained it from Amazon for $136. At the time of my purchase, it was listed as out of stock, shipping in 3-5 weeks, but I received mine in 13 days. As of the date I am writing, they are carrying 2 in stock at a price of $140, with free "super-saver" shipping (which can take 5-7 days) or free 2-day shipping for Prime members. The link to the part at Amazon is: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0GIK2Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00


Procedure:

1. Park on a flat surface and lift right-rear corner of vehicle with a floor jack (or use a lift if you are fortunate enough to have access to one - or back onto ramps - and secure vehicle from moving as appropriate to your lifting method). Set the parking brake to immobilize the left-rear tire and use a chock one or both of the front tires. Once lifted, place a jack stand in a secure location in the right-rear quadrant of the vehicle that will not obstruct your access to the sensor to be replaced. The best lift-point I have found when using a floor jack is the spring mount of the right-rear suspension. It has a ridge on the bottom that will settle securely into the ridges of your jack cup. Insert the jack behind the right-rear wheel, as lifting from in front of the wheel will partially block your access to aero panel and sensor, as you will be going underneath the vehicle from the passenger side, in front of the rear wheel.

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2. Drop the right-hand aero panel by removing the 10mm plastic nuts that secure it to the body and the single bolt at the front edge of the panel on the frame rail. A deep socket or a short extension will be the best route to get to the nuts, since some of them are recessed a bit from the surface. Some prefer to leave one nut or the bolt attached and pivot the pan toward the left of the car. If your fuel filter is more than 30,000 miles old or your DIC shows less than 20% remaining on your fuel filter, you might want to go ahead and do that at this time to save yourself lifting the car and dropping the aero panel again in a couple months. A DIY for that job can be found at: http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/169-chevy-cruze-diesel-how-diy-library/50945-cruze-diesel-diy-fuel-filter-change.html

3. The sensor inserts to the exhaust in a way identical to an O2 sensor, and that end of the sensor looks just like a larger version of an O2 sensor. On the other end of the wire is an electronic module about 2/3 the size of a deck of playing cards that is attached next to the fuel filter by 2 nuts. (The fuel filter housing can be seen along the right-hand edge of the photo below.)

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If you do these services together, you may want to perform the first 3 steps of that service at this time, and continue with step 4 of that service after you have completed the Particulate Matter Sensor replacement, as it may help provide better access to the top nut holding the module.

Remove the two nuts securing the module. A deep-well 10mm socket will be adequate to remove the bottom nut. You will probably need a standard 10mm socket and a u-joint in order to remove the top nut. Unplug the module from the wiring harness. The plug uses a locking clip. You will need to pull back this gray clip first, then squeeze the clip to release it from the module.

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4. Cut the 2 cable ties that bundle together the NOX sensor wires with the Particulate Matter Sensor wires. There will also be a harness clip taped to the wires that will need to be removed. I used a small pair of wire cutters to cut the cable ties and a utility knife to cut the electrical tape. Use extreme caution not to damage the wires to the NOX sensor while you do this. The two cable-ties contain a clip to attach the wire bundle to the brake line, and the ties cannot be reused, so you will either need to purchase replacement ties, secure the wires with an alternative method, or simply route them carefully without securing them (which was my method).

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5. Follow the wire from the module to the sensor at the other end. The sensor looks just like an oxygen sensor and is the final sensor in the exhaust system. It is located down the center of the vehicle, on the exhaust, just forward of the rear axle. It is right next to the last NOX sensor, and it is the left-hand sensor of the pair if you are looking from the right-hand side of the vehicle. Use an oxygen sensor socket or an open end wrench (I used an adjustable wrench, so not sure what size) to loosen the sensor from the exhaust. The nut on the sensor should spin freely from the sensor, but if it is rusted, it may not. (If it has rusted and will not spin freely, it will be very important that you have completed steps 3-4 first so that the wires can spin freely and not curl/crimp the wiring, potentially causing damage to the NOX sensor wiring.) Remove the sensor by threading the sensor end back through the fuel and brake lines toward the module and the passenger side of the vehicle.

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6. Thread the new sensor through above the brake and fuel lines, following the same route as the remaining NOX sensor wiring. Make sure to leave the plastic cap on the sensor until it is ready to be threaded into the exhaust in order to avoid damaging the sensor and losing or getting debris stuck to the pre-applied anti-seize on the sensor threads.

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7. Insert and tighten the sensor end back into the exhaust. Straighten the wires back toward the module, and secure them with the NOX sensor wires if so desired. Plug the module of the sensor back into the wiring harness, and re-secure the locking clip. Use the nuts to re-secure the module to the vehicle body. (Complete fuel filter service at this time if doing the two services together.) Reinstall aero panel. Lower the vehicle, remove wheel chocks, and release parking brake. Clear trouble codes, start engine (using proper priming method if you have removed fuel filter housing), test drive vehicle and re-scan for pending codes to test repair.
 

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Premium Member
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Excellent!
 

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Reverend Red Bull
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Discussion Starter #4
The repair for Nitrous Oxide Sensor #2 and the Particulate Matter Sensor are essentially identical, since both are designed with a sensor body and a sensor module connected by a length of wiring, and they are located right next to each other. So, beyond replacing the other sensor, the repair procedure is essentially identical with the following amendments:

1. NOX2 is the forward of the two sensor bodies.
2. The Module for NOX2 is rear of the Fuel Filter (as opposed to the module for the Particulate Matter Sensor, which is forward of the Fuel Filter)
 

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Premium Member
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FWIW, the Particulate Sensor is covered under special warranty coverage - can't remember the years/mileage on that one.

If my experience with replacing the NOx2 sensor right there, you might need a LOT of heat to get it loose.
 
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