[Merc6]

Yes, smoke show was what I had after a month or so after the Powerstop break in procedure. I ended up burning off the black at the outer edges of my Centric blanks in that month time period.

As for the torx screw, I used this tool to take off and put back on w/o heat.

 

[dhpnet]

The torx screws came off very easily on mine, but I don't get the snow and salt here. I just used a 1/4" ratchet. Hardly took any force at all.

 

[Merc6]

The torx screws came off very easily on mine, but I don't get the snow and salt here. I just used a 1/4" ratchet. Hardly took any force at all.

Yeah mine may have seen salt...

That circle was inside this piston for both sides of the car.

 

[NickD]

With two new vehicles in the family last year, removed the calipers and rotors and painted everything with anti-seize, can recall spending two hours trying to remove a rotor. Plenty of silicone on the caliper guide pins, also popped off the caliper pistons boots and loaded the inside of the boots with silicone. This greatly helps keeps out road salt.

With some vehicles can't even remove the wheels, rusted solid to the drums or rotors with that hub.

But draw the line there, could also remove the hub bearings and anti-seize those, kids five year old SUV were rusted in solid. Ha, could take the entire vehicle and anti-seize everything thing, in particular CRS steel unplated bolts in aluminum.

Replacing a water pump is not a half hour job when you put on a socket with 2 inches of torque on them and the head brakes off. Never was a problem working to 30's vehicle, they knew how to make bolts back then, if anything, would break a wrench.

Back in the early 80's could take my brake parts to an electroplating shop to make them rust proof, EPA sure took care of this by banning them. Ever feel like the whole world is against us? Ha, just trade it in for a new one.

 

[theonlypheonix]

also popped off the caliper pistons boots and loaded the inside of the boots with silicone. This greatly helps keeps out road salt.

Not sure I would recommend using anything inside the boot, maybe just very sparingly on the sealing lip only.
Anything used inside the boot on my F350 always seemed to cause the piston to start sticking, eventually pads would drag on disc and cause overheating/smoke. My advise is stay away from the inside unless fully rebuilding caliper.

 

[dhpnet]

I have a couple weeks on the Centric rotors and Akebono ProAct pads. They work great. No noise. No vibration. And most importantly to me, very little dust! My wheels look great.

I am sure the Akebonos don't stop as well as the Centric semi-metallic, but they are still very, very good. They do require a tiny bit more foot pressure to get the same braking results as the original pads, but it's hardly noticeable. They also have a little less initial bite than the original pads. But, they are very consistent and very smooth.

 

[XtremeRevolution]

Broken links fixed. I cannot begin tell you how much I despise Photobucket right now.

 

[MP81]

Broken links fixed. I cannot begin tell you how much I despise Photobucket right now.

I'm pretty sure that everyone does. It's been a huge issue on ebay, as well as most car forums...

 

[train.mahon]

Quick question. How do you go about switching from the jack to the jack-stand without damaging the seam.

 

[XtremeRevolution]

Quick question. How do you go about switching from the jack to the jack-stand without damaging the seam.

I use the jack on the subframe or crossmember underneath the car. I use a rubber jack pad on the jack itself.

 

[DMC]

Thought I'd post a quick public service message here. I finally did pads and rotors today after 130,000 miles, and 6 years of driving around WI and IL. Lots of salt in the winter up here. I think I did pretty well on the original pads, although I probably should have changed them around 10,000 miles ago, there was virtually no pad material left on the inside pads. Thanks to all the road salt, my driver's side rotor was impossible to remove. I literally spent an hour hammering on it, plus plenty of PBlaster, and it did not budge. In order to get some more pressure from the inside, I decided to use a screw jack to try and force them off. I used two 1.25 x 60mm bolts, tightened them up, and then did about 1/2 turn, alternating between the two. After a couple of turns the rotor popped off. I decided to do the same on the passenger side and it worked great. Some tightening and a couple of whacks from the hammer and it popped right off.

I also wanted to put in another good word for the Centric brake parts, I was very impressed with the quality of the rotor and pads. I ordered mine from Rock Auto.

 

[snowwy66]

You can use some kind of penetrating oil on that little torx screw. Sometimes that alone does the job. If need be. Harborfreight used to sell impact hammers. As posted in one of the above pics.
I can't find it on their websight so I'm not sure if they still sell them. Very handy tool to have.

I asked Bendix when I was a wrench. Was told those screws are only for assembly purposes. Not needed for any other purposes so throwing them away won't do any harm. They don't serve any other purpose.

 

[DMC]

The Torx screws came out no problem. I was surprised that the rotors took so much to remove.

 

[Mr95Kenny]

Here is a YouTube video I made about changing the front brakes!

https://youtu.be/D2kprWnQn8Y

 

[Ma v e n]

Here is a YouTube video I made about changing the front brakes!

Both of your brake videos have the incorrect torque specs, and you fail to mention that the bracket bolts are one time use and meant to be replaced with new.

 

[Mr95Kenny]

What are correct torque specs? As for the bolts, I work at the GM factory in Grand Rapids, every bolt, screw, and nut is a one time use, so much is thrown away. The bolts can be reused many of times, GM would just prefer you to buy new $

 

[박상영]

Yeah mine may have seen salt...

That circle was inside this piston for both sides of the car.

와우 대단해요!!

 

[Blasirl]

와우 대단해요!!

Translation: Wow that's great!!

탑승을 환영합니다
tabseung-eul hwan-yeonghabnida!

If you wish to post here, please translate to English. Google translate is free. If you feel that some information is being lost in the translation, feel free to post in both languages. Additionally we normally look at post with no relevant information and only of a few words as Spam. Please read CruzeTalk Forum Guidelines and Rules

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.

 

[snowwy66]

When I was a mechanic.

We used the same bolts. We weren't buying new for every job we did.

We also weren't using torque wrenches. Unless it was a cylinder head.