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Reverend Red Bull
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The repair for NOX Sensor #2 is identical to the replacement instructions for the Particulate Matter Sensor with the following amendments:

1. NOX2 is the forward of the two sensor bodies.
2. The sensor module for NOX2 is to the rear of the Fuel Filter (as opposed to the module for the Particulate Matter Sensor, which is forward of the Fuel Filter).
3. The original part number for NOX2 is 12641557. It has been replaced by an updated part - number 12662659.

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/169-...matter-sensor-exhaust-particulate-sensor.html
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Since I didn't mention the code in the OP, and I want this thread to show in search results for the code:

This repair is often done in order to resolve OBD2 code P11D7
 

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Since I didn't mention the code in the OP, and I want this thread to show in search results for the code:

This repair is often done in order to resolve OBD2 code P11D7
Added P11D7 to subject.
 

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After repairing the flange connection after the SCR, I am still getting this code (cleared multiple times, no luck). Moving on to replacing the sensor. Originally I saw the part on amazon for ~$260 but it is now $300+. Got it from rockauto with shipping for $228 using discount code, will update with results later.
 
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Update: Took me about 1 hr from start to finish Wednesday after work. The nut around the sensor was seized to the sensor on mine, but still came out. Used a 22mm open end wrench. So far no more P11D7! Old sensor was p/n 12641557 and replaced with 12662659.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Update: Took me about 1 hr from start to finish Wednesday after work. The nut around the sensor was seized to the sensor on mine, but still came out. Used a 22mm open end wrench. So far no more P11D7! Old sensor was p/n 12662659 and replaced with 12641557.
Are your part numbers reversed on that description? If you mean it the way you wrote it, your car was built with the newer version of the sensor, and you replaced it with the older, original version of the sensor that came on the earlier build months of the 2014 CTD.

On that seized nut, in case others run into the same problem in the future: One of my sensors was the same way (not sure if it was this one or the Exhaust Particulate Sensor). My remedy was to detach the sensor module from the far end first and let it hang freely, then let the whole sensor spin as I backed it out.
 

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Update: Took me about 1 hr from start to finish Wednesday after work. The nut around the sensor was seized to the sensor on mine, but still came out. Used a 22mm open end wrench. So far no more P11D7! Old sensor was p/n 12662659 and replaced with 12641557.
Are your part numbers reversed on that description? If you mean it the way you wrote it, your car was built with the newer version of the sensor, and you replaced it with the older, original version of the sensor that came on the earlier build months of the 2014 CTD.

On that seized nut, in case others run into the same problem in the future: One of my sensors was the same way (not sure if it was this one or the Exhaust Particulate Sensor). My remedy was to detach the sensor module from the far end first and let it hang freely, then let the whole sensor spin as I backed it out.
My bad, yes they were backwards, updated my post to correct it.

Yeah I thought about hitting it with PB blaster but I was 95% confident the sensor was at fault based on your experience/updated pn/repairing flange with no luck, so I just let the wires twist around a few times being the sensor is junk and if not, I couldn't return the new one anyway. But if I were to temporarily remove the sensor, I would do as you said and remove sensor body to allow for rotation without twisting the wires.
 

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You can add P229E as a code that may involve replacing the sensor. This code crops up when among other cases, the wiring is damaged. You don't realize how bad 55 mph sucks until that's all your car will go for a while.

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk
 

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I have a 2014 Diesel with 27,000 miles on it which was purchased in November, 2014. I have had to replace the NOX sensor 2 times and the check engine light has come on again. I don't have a reader, but, the folks at Autozone said it is out for the 3rd time. Does Chevy have an expected life for the sensor? It seems crazy to have to replace a $200+ part every 10,000 miles or so. Any thoughts?
 

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I have a 2014 Diesel with 27,000 miles on it which was purchased in November, 2014. I have had to replace the NOX sensor 2 times and the check engine light has come on again. I don't have a reader, but, the folks at Autozone said it is out for the 3rd time. Does Chevy have an expected life for the sensor? It seems crazy to have to replace a $200+ part every 10,000 miles or so. Any thoughts?
Try performing an DEF Quality Performance test. You may need to perform the test 3+ times. What happens is the DEF Injector tip is crystallizing and the DEF is not atomizing correctly in the exhaust. This reduces the effectiveness of the SCR and this code may set. Also, once the sensor is replaced, the ECM must be reset using a scan tool. This is something that must be done with a 2-way scan tool and not a code reader. If either of these steps are not performed, the code or codes may reset in error. Hope this helps.
 
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"Try performing an DEF Quality Performance test. You may need to perform the test 3+ times. What happens is the DEF Injector tip is crystallizing and the DEF is not atomizing correctly in the exhaust. This reduces the effectiveness of the SCR and this code may set. Also, once the sensor is replaced, the ECM must be reset using a scan tool. This is something that must be done with a 2-way scan tool and not a code reader. If either of these steps are not performed, the code or codes may reset in error. Hope this helps."

Thanks. I am new to this checking the car type stuff because it has been under warranty and I was relying on the dealer. So, what is the best for the money OBD scanner/reset, how do I perform a DEF Quality Performance test? How can I keep the DEF Injector tip cleaned and not crystallizing? Sorry if these questions are ignorant, I am not much of a mechanic, but, would like to learn a little more than fluid changes.
 

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Having just done this last week, I figure I might add a few notes.


In order to remove the sensor from the exhaust (neither of which looked overly corroded), I had to use a MAPP torch on the sensor bung, and beat my 22mm wrench to death with a hammer to even get the sensor to start to loosen. It wasn't overly easy to turn until almost the end - the hammer was still used up until then. Cleaned up the threads and the new sensor went right in without issue.


Getting that module out required me to remove the Particulate Sensor's module (which I initially removed by accident), as well as removing the bottom two bolts and loosening the top one that hole the bracket which the modules mount to in place, in order to get to the top nut to get the NOx Sensor Module off.


It was not something I found particularly enjoyable.


And while I think the Service Emissions countdown was caused by the Particulate Sensor, even after replacing the NOx2 sensor to combat the 2 or 3 codes it was throwing, that countdown would not go away. It required a trip to the dealer, and for them to spend a few hours doing a "Vehicle Repair Verification" procedure to convince the car nothing was amiss.
 

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I hope I don't have these problems!! I was broken down on the road over the weekend because of nox #2. All my tools at home. I bought a few tools to change this including a jack since car didn't come with it.

Dealer wanted to charge $800 to change sensor. I told them to go pound [email protected]!!! Wanted $400 for part. I ordered from rock auto ac delco nox for $175. Having it overnighted to hotel. Would suck to spend all this time and effort to only have to pay them after all!!!!!!! Blankety blank I was hoping it would correct on its own or I could unhook battery to get a reset.

This is the 3rd time for me, only thing that has failed on the car except for notchy steering. I did discover technical bulletins on couple of other things I have noticed.
 

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Did you get the emission recalls done?
 

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They had an emmisions recall, followed by a recall of the recall, followed by a re-release of the recalled recall. Following the last I haven't had a cell in 50K.
 

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They had an emmisions recall, followed by a recall of the recall, followed by a re-release of the recalled recall. Following the last I haven't had a cell in 50K.

I had 2 recalls done if I remember right. I know at least once I had nox #1 replaced. Seems like they reflashed ecm once for emissions and bcm once to fix steering problems.

This breakdown was the nox #2 sensor. I ended up doing it myself in the parking lot with tools I had to buy. Since I'm a disabled vet was not so easy...
Had to also buy a torch and heat it to break it loose. Then the module and wiring is in a location that made the rest of it somewhat difficult. Another frustrating thing is it won't reset by unhooking the battery. So had another day in the hotel waiting for dealership to open. It has to be reset with their scan tool. Plus now I have to wait again to get it worked in there.

I'm so ticked off that I have already ordered oz tune!!!!!

If there was a way to temporarily override it I could have gotten it home. This would have saved me hotel cost and buying tools I already own.

Thanks for the info
 

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Nightmare update: Even though I already paid quite a bit to dealer for initial troubleshooting which I think consisted of reading the scan tool. After fixing it myself I had talked to service manager who knew I didn't have money to pay their price for repair and that we were stranded travelers because of this. He talked like he would reset it for free. So imagine my surprise when they they charged me another $130 to reset it so I could go home. They told me they did a manual regen which takes an hour. When I protested and mentioned what the service manager had said who was not there. 1st they said if we could have just reset it with code reader which I saw him do, would have been free. I told him at the time it would require bidirectional scan tool which manager also told me. Then he said he only charged me 1 hour which normally they charged 2 which is contrary to what he told me earlier and they only spent 1 hour while I was waiting. So I left upset and feeling like I had been raped twice.

So 4 days later I finally make it home. The only good thing is I suddenly got good mpg which hasn't done in at least 2.5 years. Trip there got 38 mpg avg on 75 mph highway. On return got 51.4 mpg.
 

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Nightmare update: Even though I already paid quite a bit to dealer for initial troubleshooting which I think consisted of reading the scan tool. After fixing it myself I had talked to service manager who knew I didn't have money to pay their price for repair and that we were stranded travelers because of this. He talked like he would reset it for free. So imagine my surprise when they they charged me another $130 to reset it so I could go home. They told me they did a manual regen which takes an hour. When I protested and mentioned what the service manager had said who was not there. 1st they said if we could have just reset it with code reader which I saw him do, would have been free. I told him at the time it would require bidirectional scan tool which manager also told me. Then he said he only charged me 1 hour which normally they charged 2 which is contrary to what he told me earlier and they only spent 1 hour while I was waiting. So I left upset and feeling like I had been raped twice.
It's not a free procedure to clear the countdown, and is not as simple as just performing a manual regen. They have to run it in a diagnostic check mode that makes sure there are no other problems with the car before it will remove the countdown, and it's not very quick.
 
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Ive had the P11D7 code for a few weeks now, The first 4 times it threw this code the repair was covered under warranty which was nice.. now im 100k + I had to tackle it myself. I changed the sensor last night with ac delco P/N 12662659... First off I need a lift, would make life much easier than working on a set of ramps LOL. I had to use a small torch and put some heat to the exhaust pipe because the sensor did not want to budge, with some heat it loosened right up. The 2 bolts holding the sensor pplug to the frame mount was the hardest part... the top bolt because of the salt they dump all winter in NY was pretty rusty and was a challenge to get off. When I was all done I cleared the code only to have the P11D7 code come back on today after 30 miles of driving to work...

I have a few questions

Any ideas what could be causing the code now?
If were to get the DPF and DEF delete for my car would I have to worry about the P11D7 code anymore?

Thanks!!
 
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