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Tools needed:
7 mm socket
Driver/ratchet with extension for socket
Phillips head screwdriver
Plastic trim pry tools (or tape coated screwdrivers)
Pliers
19mm or 3/4 in. impact socket and regular socket (for the wheel covers if ya got em)
1/2 in. wrench or impact wrench
1/2 in. torque wrench
10mm socket and appropriate ratchet
Jack and jack stands or lift
Light
Patience

Note: I have drums on my 2012, if you have discs, this may differ, but I bet not by much. I also have a manual, so the steps to get the console and trim off the gear selector might differ from you slushboxers.

Sorry, this isn't your typical how to, as I didn't take enough pictures to do this, but there's no info online and I thought I'd share how much fun this is.

The part we're looking at in this case is #1 on this diagram (from this forum, appropriately enough)



The driver and passenger side is ACDelco part# 13352979. It's listed as "front"



To remove the e-brake cable, you need to remove the center console, and partially lift up the carpet under the rear seat.

Removing the center console is time consuming, but actually not hard. There's 4 screws in the console that houses the aux/usb ports (I also removed the top, so there's another 3 screws there). I don't believe you need to disconnect the connectors for the console, just push the cable out of the clips holding it to the bottom of the console before the actual connectors. When you look in the bottom, you'll see 2 slots/slits that are holding the cable to the bottom of the console. Use a screwdriver to gently push those out and give the cable more slack.

Next, push both seats all the way forward, remove a single screw in the outside rear of the console on each side (2 total)

Next, push both seats all the way back, gently pry back the panels near by where your feet go (near your right foot for driver, left for passenger). They're just clipped panels, so be gentle, they'll pop back. Underneath, you'll see a single screw on each side holding the front of the console down (2 total)

Next, pry up the gearshift trim ring. There's no clips holding it, it basically snaps in and out of place. Once you start prying it up, the sides should pop free.

Next, separate the silver trim surround that goes around the HVAC knobs. More clips, so use your pry tools or prydrivers and slowly ease it up and out. Instead of disconnecting the sissy (TC) switch connector, I just removed the two screws holding it to the surround.

I removed the change cup next, wasn't sure if I had to, but I did anyways. Two more 7mm screws come out to remove this.

Lastly, two screws are at the forward/top end of the center console, 1 on each side. Remove those. On the right side, near the HVAC knobs, there's a little plug/clip that's holding the wiring for the sissy switch to the underside of the console. Use a screwdriver or knife to gently pop it out to give the console the ability to pull away.

Remove center console. Lift the e-brake/play w/ your shifter, whatever you gotta do to maneuver the console out of the way.



Sorry for the large pic.

With this out of the way, you can disconnect the cable at the rear of the car now.

Remove the appropriate wheel to the side that you're replacing.



The cable connects to the rear cable using this circled connector. Pry it apart, but don't destroy it. You'll need to reuse it.



I found it easier to remove this bracket, rather than feed the cable through it. Remove the (3) 10mm bolts holding it on. Save for later.

The cable is clipped to the bottom of the car a few ways, one through a christmas tree type clip pressed into the frame, pop it out. It actually splits in half and snaps together to go around the cable. Split it apart and save it for later.
There's another snap-in clip under the car; pop the cable out of that, you don't need to remove the bracket (It looks like a J kinda).

The cable goes into the frame through a hole that has a rubber plug. Pop that out and now get back into the back of the car.

The cable runs through the frame, under the carpet, up to the splitter from the handle. You will need to remove the trim pieces at the bottom of each door (the floor, not the actual door), and lift the seat up to pull the carpet out.

The seat is held with two large clips. Give them a hefty pull, and they'll snap out. Don't worry, it'll go back in. Lift the seat up enough to pull the carpet out. With the door trim pulled up, you should be able to pull the carpet out from under the trim and give yourself some room/slack to work.

Note: You may gain additional room to work by removing the front seats, since they're bolted down close to the e-brake hump, but I didn't. Do what works for you. Maybe you don't need to remove the seats, but just remove the rear bolts to lift the seat up/forward enough to get room under the carpet.



Those two cutouts along the seat facing edge of the carpet give you an idea where those clips are if you want to concentrate your pulling.

The cable is held by a clip to the frame here under the carpet. Remove it to free the cable some more. All that is left is the knob of the cable connected to the equalizer.

They did some metal cutting/bending to ensure the cable will not come out. There's also a little plastic clip/tie in there as a further redundancy. Manipulate the clip and metal to pull the cable out. Get back under the car.


Pull the cable out through the hole in the frame, and then feed the new one in. You can either re-use the clip in the frame under the carpet or not, I didn't. Feeding the cable under the carpet and trying to get it in the hole of the hump to the equalizer is a bit of a guessing game. I had 1 hand on the cable feeding, and the other at the hole trying to feel it around. Push it through and put the knob in the equalizer. If you didn't break one of the metal tabs like I did, you may be able to bend it back into place to keep the cable from popping out, but it shouldn't. It still may break because it's so thin. Get back under the car.

Route the new cable as before, putting the rubber grommet back in place in the frame to seal it, snapping the clip back into the frame, snapping the plastic sleeve around the cable into the other clip hanging from the frame (the J hook)

Put the end of the cable back into the grippy clip connected to the rear cable. Put the knob in the recess, use pliers to close the clip around it as before.

There may be some tension on the cable at this point, depending on how your e-brake handle is situated in relation to your console removal. When you put the bracket and (3) 10mm bolts back on, you may find some force is needed to pull the bracket into place.

(If your cable is not pulled, you may want to take the time to adjust your e-brake if you haven't before). Use a torx bit to remove the drum and a screwdriver to adjust the star wheel a few clicks. You may need to try this a few times to make sure it's properly adjusted.

Put your wheel back on, tighten to desired torque, check with torque wrench.

Put your interior back together.

Slide the carpet back under the seat and side trims, pop those back into place.

In putting your center console back in, don't forget to reattach the sissy switch to the underside of the silver trim under the HVAC knobs.

Reattach center console using 2 screws in rear, 2 in the front side, 2 in the front top, 2 for the coin holder, 4 in the aux/usb bin (plus the 3 for the lid), reattach your connectors, snap your silver and shifter trims into place, send it!

Sorry, haven't done a write-up in a long time. Glad there's some photos online, but I'm surprised there's not more information out there about this.
 
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