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This is my write up for replacing shifter bushings. I replaced mine with the DDMWorks Sonic bushings. While there was no difference in the shift feel or performance, I thought I'd write it up anyway since eventually someone will make a set for us.

NOTICE: BE PATIENT!!! (Says the guy with no patients)

1. Remove driver side and passenger side kick panels. These are the panels on the side where your feet kick the center console. These panels start just behind the shifter and go underneath the dash. To get them off, just get in there and pull them. They're held in by snap clips and will come out (green arrows). Be patient and pull firm, but don't bend your panels and cause white creases. There are no bolts at this point. There are also two lips that help hold it in place (green bar). You'll have fun when trying to reinstall the panels because of these lips.

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2. On each side of the console, you'll see a single bolt after removing the kick panels. Remove this bolt on both driver and passenger sides.

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3. Pull both driver and passenger seats forward. There is a single bolt on each side in the rear of the console that needs to come out. Don't worry about anything else (lighter plug, pockets, etc)

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4. Remove the shift boot by prying up on the silver/grey plastic ring that goes around the boot at the base. Just be careful and pull up gently from the top and it will come up. It's just snapped in. Note: I do not remove the boot from the shifter. I didn't want to figure out how to get the shift knob back in. Feel free to do so at your own risk.

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4. One the boot is lifted up, inside of the lip closest to the e-brake, there are two clips holding in the bezel that wraps the shifter and goes up to the heat control dials. You'll need to use your fingers and reach in and release the clips (1 on each side). It doesn't take much but you can't pry these up. Once they are released, just pull up little by little on the rest of the plastic. Be careful so you don't break it or cause a crease. The rest is held in by clips so just gently pull on them.

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5. Once the bezel is out, you'll need to flip it over and unscrew the T/C button using a philips screwdriver. Set the bezel aside.

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6. Unbolt the change tray (two bolts on each side).

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7. Unbolt the four bolts as indicated in the picture and then slightly pull the black face forward, pulling from the bottom. Just a tiny bit to losen it up, it won't come off and if you pull hard you'll break it.

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8. There is a cable that is held in place with a plastic rivet on the passenger side (same area as the T/C button). You'll need to reach in pry it out (or cut it if you want, but you need to put it back later). It is connected to the console and prevents it from coming out.

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9. Now it's time to remove the center console. Pull your e-brake as far back as you can. Start at the front of the console and gently spread the left and right sides apart, away from the dials. Once it's clear, lift up and start working the console out. You can also pull up on the back at the same time. You'll need to lift the console as high up as possible so that you can move it forward to get it off of the e-brake. Don't worry, it's easy. Once it's off, set it on the passenger seat or outside the car.

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
(continued from above...)
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10. There are four bolts holding the shifter base to the floor. This is also where the bushings are. DO NOT REMOVE THE FOUR BOLTS ON TOP! Only the bolts on the bottom that are in the recessed areas. Pull them out. You may need a swivel for your ratchet.

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11. Once these bolts are out, you can lift up the shifter assembly. You may feel it shift gears are you do, that's ok. You can freely move it around (just don't get crazy). To remove the bushings, you'll need to force them out from the top down because the base of the bushing is larger than the top. This is very difficult so be patient. I used needle nose and a flat head. There are better ways I'm sure. I folded the center in and pushed down while prying from the bottom with the flat head.

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Notice there are metal sleeves that go through the center of the bushings. The two in the front are sleeves that can be removed easily (be careful) and the two in the back have a base to them and are mounted under the metal plate. If you don't need them for the new bushings, then just take them out.

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12. Install your bushings and replace the bolts. I recommend putting in all four bolts and get them just to the point where they aren't tight. The front of the shifter base has two teeth that go into guide holes for correct positioning. Move the shifter base around until they fit in, then tighten your bushing bolts.

(sorry, no pic)

13. Reinstall the center console in reverse order.

Note: There will be white grease on the shifter assembly. Be careful not to get it all over you or your car.
 

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Good write up

Sent from my Droid using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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****, that's a lot of work for something that makes no difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
****, that's a lot of work for something that makes no difference.
They weren't meant for the Cruze. We wanted to see if they would work for us. They work, but offer no benefit.
 

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Oh ok. Well that's good then that ya'll are out there seeing what fits and if it works or not then. Are ya'll gonna try the short shifter for opel I just saw somebody post about?
 

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Titan, I used your how to and removed the center console with ease. I had no issue with removing or putting back the kick panels. I left the two screws below the driver and passenger kick panels out so I can quickly remove the console again when my custom LED discs come for my cup holders. I just wanted to say thanks again for a great how to - it worked like a charm!
 

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Titan, I used your how to and removed the center console with ease. I had no issue with removing or putting back the kick panels. I left the two screws below the driver and passenger kick panels out so I can quickly remove the console again when my custom LED discs come for my cup holders. I just wanted to say thanks again for a great how to - it worked like a charm!
Thanks. Glad it was helpful. I don't know what kind of work it takes to install the LED's but please let us know by creating your own write up for it when you get them going. I'd be interested to see how it turns out. One of my friends sells a kit for the 2013 Toyota Camery so it can't be terribly difficult.
 

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Thanks. Glad it was helpful. I don't know what kind of work it takes to install the LED's but please let us know by creating your own write up for it when you get them going. I'd be interested to see how it turns out. One of my friends sells a kit for the 2013 Toyota Camery so it can't be terribly difficult.
Yeah I was thinking of making a How To Write Up for it. The guy I am in communication with is working on getting the disc color as close to our interior lights color as close as he can. I will see the progress on Monday. I really want this mod to look as stock as possible. When I create this write up I will refer to this thread for the initial steps as it couldn't of been easier. I will keep you posted!
 

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im looking at installing my subwoofers and this is exactly what i needed to see to get through the console and run my wires. thanks for the help
 

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Thanks for the write up, well done! I have a 2011 Cruze manual transmission and all I want to do is change the cheap stock shift knob. I bought a 'universal' one and the bottom ring of the new knob doesn't allow me to pull up the ring for reverse. I'm no mechanic and it's kind of hard to spend $100 for the entire shift box and even harder to spend on labor - Any suggestions would be GREATLY APPRECIATED
 

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Thanks for the write up, well done! I have a 2011 Cruze manual transmission and all I want to do is change the cheap stock shift knob. I bought a 'universal' one and the bottom ring of the new knob doesn't allow me to pull up the ring for reverse. I'm no mechanic and it's kind of hard to spend $100 for the entire shift box and even harder to spend on labor - Any suggestions would be GREATLY APPRECIATED
I'm about to start on a group buy with a knob my cousin can machine of out of solid aluminum that would have a recess for the lockout. You're one of the lucky few that has a threaded knob shaft. Some time in 2012 models, they made them press-on and they do not come off without a hacksaw.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
There was someone else who was looking into a short throw shifter, he took apart his 2011 shifter knob. search around and see if you can find that thread. Lot fo good pictures.
 

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I'm about to start on a group buy with a knob my cousin can machine of out of solid aluminum that would have a recess for the lockout. You're one of the lucky few that has a threaded knob shaft. Some time in 2012 models, they made them press-on and they do not come off without a hacksaw.
I love the thought of the shift knob you have been working on for sometime now, my only concern is how hot it will get in here in the south.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I love the thought of the shift knob you have been working on for sometime now, my only concern is how hot it will get in here in the south.
I just put some 3M spectra photosync tint on the windshields of the SRT4 and my Genesis. It isn't tinted since I got clear, but it blocks like 99% heat. Will fix that issue :)

Though, I'm not sure why you think the stock shift knob is cheap. Mine was wrapped in leather with stitching and it was really nice I thought.
 

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I love the thought of the shift knob you have been working on for sometime now, my only concern is how hot it will get in here in the south.
I've used it in the high heat up at about 95 and in the cold down to about -15. In the cold, it frosts over. Be a man. In the heat, well, it's hot, but it won't be sitting in direct sunlight. Put a sock over it when you leave the car if you're concerned. Here's what I suggest. Wrap it in tennis grip tape. In fact, I may do just that for the winter.

I just put some 3M spectra photosync tint on the windshields of the SRT4 and my Genesis. It isn't tinted since I got clear, but it blocks like 99% heat. Will fix that issue :)

Though, I'm not sure why you think the stock shift knob is cheap. Mine was wrapped in leather with stitching and it was really nice I thought.
The areas around my knob where they were stitched started fraying. It's not real leather. Plus, the added weight of the aluminum shifter makes for some much nicer shifting. The shifter feels like it throws itself into gear.
 

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This is my write up for replacing shifter bushings. I replaced mine with the DDMWorks Sonic bushings. While there was no difference in the shift feel or performance, I thought I'd write it up anyway since eventually someone will make a set for us.
sorry for dragging this up 7 year later.
i need to just change my sifter shaft, i have a 12 that does not have the screw on knob.Do i need to fallow all these steps to just change the shaft?
 
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