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sorry for dragging this up 7 year later.
i need to just change my sifter shaft, i have a 12 that does not have the screw on knob.Do i need to fallow all these steps to just change the shaft?
I had to replace my shifter last summer due to the leather on the knob getting all worn out. So yes, you'll have to follow pretty much the whole thing to get the shifter assembly replaced. This guide was exactly what I used to get it done. I didn't have to pull the whole center console out. I was able to prop up the front of it enough to get the shifter in and out through the side. Took me about an hour or so.

A new shifter assembly will come with a pin holding it firmly in place. DO NOT REMOVE THIS PIN. You're going to need another pin of some sort (I used a small Phillips screw driver) to line up the holes on the transmission to lock that end in place so it will match up with the shifter when it's installed. You can do this after you remove the old shifter but it will need to be locked in place for the new shifter to work correctly.

I hope that makes sense. Good luck and let us know how it goes!
 

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Thanks. I did this today. Took maybe an hour (would have been a little faster if my two and three year olds didn’t try and help )

Not sure what you meant by second pin. I was able to get everything lined up and in easily. Took it for drive and all the gears pinned up. So I’ll take that as all good.

The walk throw was spot on.
 

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They weren't meant for the Cruze. We wanted to see if they would work for us. They work, but offer no benefit.
This is my write up for replacing shifter bushings. I replaced mine with the DDMWorks Sonic bushings. While there was no difference in the shift feel or performance, I thought I'd write it up anyway since eventually someone will make a set for us.

NOTICE: BE PATIENT!!! (Says the guy with no patients)

1. Remove driver side and passenger side kick panels. These are the panels on the side where your feet kick the center console. These panels start just behind the shifter and go underneath the dash. To get them off, just get in there and pull them. They're held in by snap clips and will come out (green arrows). Be patient and pull firm, but don't bend your panels and cause white creases. There are no bolts at this point. There are also two lips that help hold it in place (green bar). You'll have fun when trying to reinstall the panels because of these lips.

View attachment 10659

2. On each side of the console, you'll see a single bolt after removing the kick panels. Remove this bolt on both driver and passenger sides.

View attachment 10660

3. Pull both driver and passenger seats forward. There is a single bolt on each side in the rear of the console that needs to come out. Don't worry about anything else (lighter plug, pockets, etc)

View attachment 10661

4. Remove the shift boot by prying up on the silver/grey plastic ring that goes around the boot at the base. Just be careful and pull up gently from the top and it will come up. It's just snapped in. Note: I do not remove the boot from the shifter. I didn't want to figure out how to get the shift knob back in. Feel free to do so at your own risk.

View attachment 10662

4. One the boot is lifted up, inside of the lip closest to the e-brake, there are two clips holding in the bezel that wraps the shifter and goes up to the heat control dials. You'll need to use your fingers and reach in and release the clips (1 on each side). It doesn't take much but you can't pry these up. Once they are released, just pull up little by little on the rest of the plastic. Be careful so you don't break it or cause a crease. The rest is held in by clips so just gently pull on them.

View attachment 10663

5. Once the bezel is out, you'll need to flip it over and unscrew the T/C button using a philips screwdriver. Set the bezel aside.

View attachment 10664

6. Unbolt the change tray (two bolts on each side).

View attachment 10665

7. Unbolt the four bolts as indicated in the picture and then slightly pull the black face forward, pulling from the bottom. Just a tiny bit to losen it up, it won't come off and if you pull hard you'll break it.

View attachment 10666

8. There is a cable that is held in place with a plastic rivet on the passenger side (same area as the T/C button). You'll need to reach in pry it out (or cut it if you want, but you need to put it back later). It is connected to the console and prevents it from coming out.

View attachment 10667

9. Now it's time to remove the center console. Pull your e-brake as far back as you can. Start at the front of the console and gently spread the left and right sides apart, away from the dials. Once it's clear, lift up and start working the console out. You can also pull up on the back at the same time. You'll need to lift the console as high up as possible so that you can move it forward to get it off of the e-brake. Don't worry, it's easy. Once it's off, set it on the passenger seat or outside the car.

View attachment 10668
May I ask where you bought your bushing kit please? I have tried all over Australia and can only buy from Holden as a shifter full assembly kit which is over $370 in price.
 

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May I ask where you bought your bushing kit please? I have tried all over Australia and can only buy from Holden as a shifter full assembly kit which is over $370 in price.
I bought them from DDMWorks directly
 
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