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I don't exactly remember but I do know it took a couple of minutes with a flathead screwdriver. Try pressing down on the plastic bar, then prying the tabs to a side, then lifting while you're prying.
How-To: Replace the Valve/Camshaft Cover (1.4L Turbo)
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also it appears that the orange clip on the ignition coil has been broken off. I didn't notice it until now, but how can someone release the tab to remove the ignition coil? The tiny orange tab that you can see in the middle is still there, but the very end somehow broke? Any ideas on how to release it would help a lot
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Why would my dealer use sealant instead of a gasket...
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I already told you, I don't remember.
If you can't get the ignition coil clip off, just set it (the coil pack) off to the side and out of the way. Work around it.
Good question. Considering the new ones come with a gasket and we've received no reports of that gasket actually leaking, I seen no point to it. The gasket has 3 ribs that would need to fail in order for any oil to seep past. It's also impossible to over-tighten the gasket as the bolts have stoppers to only allow it to be pressed down so far.
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Yeah last time sealant was used I noticed a handful of tiny sesame seed sized white flakes in the oil filter im assuming caused by the use of sealant.
So your saying a gasket comes with the valve cover... next time my valve cover needs to be replaced I will consider doing it myself.
So your saying a gasket comes with the valve cover... next time my valve cover needs to be replaced I will consider doing it myself.
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Correct, and it's a very good gasket at that. The design of the valve cover and its gasket is such that it will not warp and cause leaks like other GM cars of the past, and will adjust to contraction and expansion of aluminum very well without causing any gasket wear. You don't need any sealant at all there.
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Great info here. I'm new to this and found it very helpful. I have a 2012 1.4 and will replace my cover tomorrow. It has 58k miles.
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I had commented on this previously but I just wanted to add that at 93000 miles my PCV valve did fail, including a nice check engine light, and a few nice engine codes to go along with that. I also experienced low end hesitation. I took the Cruze into my dealership and thankfully mine was replaced under the 5 yr/100000 mile drivetrain warranty with the updated cam cover.
Just Replaced my stock one at 137000km(Still under warranty), Went to the dealer and they couldn't even look at the car until Monday. I need my car so i paid the 66$ for the new valve cover and changed it myself. took about 20 min.
I made a short video of the process
I made a short video of the process
Thanks for the detailed write-up. My Cruze is starting to throw the P0171 code (system lean), and this repair appears to be a common culprit. At 117,000 miles, it's on me now. 
I'd like to be able verify this is the cause before investing the time and money. Any suggestions how to validate or rule out a faulty valve cover? Thanks again.
I'd like to be able verify this is the cause before investing the time and money. Any suggestions how to validate or rule out a faulty valve cover? Thanks again.
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Do you have oil around the cap at the top right of the valve cover (when facing the engine bay)? Do you hear a hissing sound from that area when the engine is running?Thanks for the detailed write-up. My Cruze is starting to throw the P0171 code (system lean), and this repair appears to be a common culprit. At 117,000 miles, it's on me now.
I'd like to be able verify this is the cause before investing the time and money. Any suggestions how to validate or rule out a faulty valve cover? Thanks again.
No x2, although my hearing isn't what it once was... Everything looks and sounds normal to me.
Is there a way to validate the PCV component of the valve cover assembly is at fault? The valve cover as a whole does not appear to be my problem, but I understand that the PCV valve is an integrated part. I often ask, why in the world to automotive engineers make some of the decisions they do?!? Then I remember: it's all about the bottom line...drives me nuts.
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How "bad" is to to drive your vehicle with a faulty PCV valve? CEL came on today after I felt some rough idling with code P0106, and I can hear air being sucked through the valve with some idle surging. Service traction control warning was also coming on (both the CEL and traction control intermittently). Obviously I'm going to order a new part, but if the car is still driving fine other than the rough idle, is it critical to not drive until the new part gets here?
Mine has been replaced three times. When I tried to do it myself the last time I discovered some threads were stripped and the dealer had used gasket sealer. Took it back and the charged me almost $400 to put in two heli-coils nand now it's leaking from the front of the valve cover. I guess the aluminum heads are not made to have the covers bolted unbolted three or more times. Now they want to charge me even more to fix this thread, which they probably screwed up while doing the work. Sucks
Actually there is supposed to be sealant used
I also had a couple strip out. It is the nature of aluminum with steel fasters only takes 1 lazy tech to over torque. You happen to know the heli coil size the used I need to do this with mine
If I may throw out a caution regarding stripping.
The #1 reason a bolt strips the threads out of aluminum, beyond overtorque, is a caused hydrolock.
In the case of any bolt that is screwed into a hole that has any accumulated oil in it.......the oil gets trapped as the bolt screws down....as you torque it, you are trying to compress a liquid and you end up tearing the threads out of the hole.
Always clear the holes with brake clean and compressed air......do it twice to be sure and look down each little hole with a strong light.....you want to see the bottom of hole looking back at you.
Rob
The #1 reason a bolt strips the threads out of aluminum, beyond overtorque, is a caused hydrolock.
In the case of any bolt that is screwed into a hole that has any accumulated oil in it.......the oil gets trapped as the bolt screws down....as you torque it, you are trying to compress a liquid and you end up tearing the threads out of the hole.
Always clear the holes with brake clean and compressed air......do it twice to be sure and look down each little hole with a strong light.....you want to see the bottom of hole looking back at you.
Rob
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