Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner

How-To: Replace the Valve/Camshaft Cover (1.4L Turbo)

359696 Views 150 Replies 72 Participants Last post by  IGadget
14
How-To: Replace the Valve/Camshaft Cover (1.4L Turbo)

Overview
The valve cover of the 1.4L Turbo engine houses the PCV system. Whether due to a leak in the gasket or a failure in the PCV system, this valve cover may need to be replaced. It is covered under the 5 year, 100,000 mile warranty from GM, but you may choose to perform the service yourself under certain conditions. The valve cover was at one point redesigned due to a high rate of failure. As my dealership is a significant distance away from me, it is more cost-effective given the value of my time to order this part and install it myself. In addition, I like to replace known defective parts ahead of time as preventive maintenance.

The following image compares the primary cosmetic difference between the old design and the new one. The old design is on top, new design is on the bottom. The new design has a ramped vent.

Part Number & Cost
GM part number 25198874 (Camshaft cover with bolt and seal), Available on Amazon.com. The valve cover comes as a kit, which includes gaskets and bolts pre-assembled. You will also need some RTV silicone or engine sealer.

Required Tools
Flathead screwdriver
T-30 torx screwdriver/bit
E-10 socket and ratchet (Available on Amazon.com)
In-lb torque wrench (Available on Amazon.com)

Procedure
The procedure is in fact rather simple, but I will walk you through it step by step.

The first step will be to remove the ignition coil cover. It's that piece of plastic on the top of your engine that "ECOTEC." Once you lift it off, you will see the ignition coil assembly. Remove the two torx screws with a T-30 torx bit/screwdriver.



Once you remove the screws, set them aside in a safe place. You will need to remove the coil assembly. This has to be done carefully as it can break. Do not use a screwdriver. Grab the assembly with two hands as shown, and lift evenly. Apply a very slight see-saw motion as you lift if necessary.



Once you have the coil bar removed, you will need to disconnect it from the wiring harness. To do this, you will need to slide back the connector lock. This will be an orange tab on the connector. Be careful while sliding this out as it can break easily. Once you have slid back the lock, you should be able to press down on the tab to disconnect the connector from the harness. The following image shows the connector with the lock slid back.


On the rear right of the engine, lift the harness out of its seat:



When you reach the left side, you will need to wedge a screwdriver in the snap retainer to free the harness.


Underneath the snap retainer, there is located a plastic vacuum line. Remove this as well. It will simply pop out of its retainer.


On the left side of the cover, lift the harness out of the retainers:


Below the harness, there will be a plastic bar that holds some additional wiring. You will need to use the screwdriver to hold back the retaining clips so you can remove this. It took me a little while to figure out which way to push the tab, but once you have it right, the bar should should lift up and out.


Using an E10 socket, loosen all of the bolts until they can be lifted.



Remove the oil fill cap and dipstick:
See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 5
81 - 100 of 151 Posts
How many miles between failures?
I wish I knew that, I am not sure if I can find out. The car has 85K on it and I have owned it since 68K. I don't know the date on the first code.
How about the valve going to the turbo? Something should be causing the cam cover disc to bust. ...
How about the valve going to the turbo? Something should be causing the cam cover disc to bust. ...
That check valve is at the turbo inlet. The pressure regulator disk in the valve cover fails due to fatigue. It's just a rubber part that eventually gets brittle.
Hey Guys,

New to the forum, and have been having quite a lot of issues with the cam cover needing to be replaced. Purchased the car at 25K Miles.

1st cam cover replacement - 28K Miles - covered by warranty
2nd cam cover replacement - 35K Miles - covered by warranty
3rd Cam cover replacement - 57K Miles - covered by warranty

currently at 77K miles. Needs another cam cover. Warranty is no longer covering the charges.

I dont mind doing the work and replacing it my self... but I want to do it right and not have this issue again.

Any recommendations?
See less See more
Hey Guys,

New to the forum, and have been having quite a lot of issues with the cam cover needing to be replaced. Purchased the car at 25K Miles.

1st cam cover replacement - 28K Miles - covered by warranty
2nd cam cover replacement - 35K Miles - covered by warranty
3rd Cam cover replacement - 57K Miles - covered by warranty

currently at 77K miles. Needs another cam cover. Warranty is no longer covering the charges.

I dont mind doing the work and replacing it my self... but I want to do it right and not have this issue again.

Any recommendations?
Do you still have your check valve in your intake manifold?

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-g...4-pcv-valve-cover-intake-manifold-issues.html
the intake manifold was definitely needing a replacement according to your excellent write up. The check valve was no longer there.

I replaced the intake manifold and cam cover last night. Car is running better than it has it a long time. Having a new throttle body that came along with the intake manifold is also made big difference since my old one was really sticky which made it my manual car alot more jerky than normal.

Fingers crossed for this holding up.
the intake manifold was definitely needing a replacement according to your excellent write up. The check valve was no longer there.

I replaced the intake manifold and cam cover last night. Car is running better than it has it a long time. Having a new throttle body that came along with the intake manifold is also made big difference since my old one was really sticky which made it my manual car alot more jerky than normal.

Fingers crossed for this holding up.
Another option, which costs about half as much, is to install my PCV fix kit, which addresses the missing check valve with a permanent solution that isn't guaranteed to fail again. Just keep an eye on it.
Hey Guys,

New to the forum, and have been having quite a lot of issues with the cam cover needing to be replaced. Purchased the car at 25K Miles.

1st cam cover replacement - 28K Miles - covered by warranty
2nd cam cover replacement - 35K Miles - covered by warranty
3rd Cam cover replacement - 57K Miles - covered by warranty

currently at 77K miles. Needs another cam cover. Warranty is no longer covering the charges.

I dont mind doing the work and replacing it my self... but I want to do it right and not have this issue again.

Any recommendations?
Why wouldn't this still be covered under warranty? Powertrain warranty on the LUJ/LUW engine is 6 years/100,000 miles. If they're refusing to fix this under warranty, you're being jerked around.

That being said, it seems you're losing your valve a lot faster than I've seen as an average. Not sure what's up with that. I have a 1.4T sonic and I just accomplished this job yesterday. The instructions were fantastic and the job is straightforward, though my cover was stubborn to get off and took some ingenuity. :) This is the 3rd valve cover for this 2012 Sonic and I'm at 109K miles.
Great write up, just finished this up after the PCV valve repair. Used break cleaner and a good light as suggested to double check that the bolt holes were clear, and oh boy that cover did not want to come off, used an old spatula to pry it off slowly. Plus some black RTV as a cheap double tap on the 2 weak points.
"Important note: be careful not to get any dirt or oil into the bolt holes. If you do, oil doesn't compress and neither does dirt, and you can easily strip the thread or break the bolt. If you suspect you got any dirt or oil in those holes, blow them out with compressed air. You should be able to screw those bolts in by hand freely until they need to be tightened. If you can't and you start finding a significant amount of resistance, you have debris inside and you need to use a tap to clean out the threads. Just something to be mindful of when you're doing this."

Would you know the tap size so people can have it 'at ready' ?
Replaced the valve cover and gasket but still waiting on the intake manifold. Getting a lot of oil spray and can’t tell where it is coming from. Any ideas? Only thing I see is some pooling around a few of the front valve cover bolts
Replaced the valve cover and gasket but still waiting on the intake manifold. Getting a lot of oil spray and can’t tell where it is coming from. Any ideas? Only thing I see is some pooling around a few of the front valve cover bolts
Read through this thread first before you do (or buy) anything else.

http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-g...4-pcv-valve-cover-intake-manifold-issues.html
can somebody show me a picture of where to put the RTV and how much of a bead? this is even with the new valve cover having a gasket?
I have the same question, like at this very moment. The sun has already gone down but gotta have the car by tomorrow and I've gone to extreme measures to keep tree debris "at bay". ?
2
RTV is being installed at the seam between the timing cover and the cylinder head.

Attachments

See less See more
THANK YOU so much! I watched a video on YouTube that stated too much sealant brought the job back.
I didn't use sealant on mine when I put it back. I used some sandpaper to very carefully smooth the transition between cylinder head and timing cover so it was perfectly flat. Put the new valve cover on and it never leaked. However, that's not the "GM approved" method.
Can car be started as soon as I am done, or does the little bit of rtv need to cure a while?
Can the car be started right after I am done, or does the rtv need to cure a while?
The side of the tube will tell you how long it needs to cure.
81 - 100 of 151 Posts
Top