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Recently I got a code for my Thermostat Heater Control Circuit Low & Open, so I purchased a new thermostat w/housing and I realized that theres no how-to write up for the swap. Anyhow, here's my write up, with a couple pics from my Note 4.

Tools Needed
- Torx socket (I believe T20-T25, I'll double check monday)
- Hose Pliers
- Needle Nose Pliers
- Bucket

Steps
Now, first off you need to drain your coolant (of course), thankfully all I had to do is remove my bumper and drain it without jacking my car up, even though I'm lowered. The drain nozzle is located underneath the passenger headlight on the bottom of the radiator, as seen in the pictures below. Be careful when un-screwing, as there is a bleeder nipple pointing towards the rear of the car, and some coolant will pour out of the nipple while you're getting unscrewing the last half of the threads.




Next step, is to remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing. Use your pliers to move the spring clamp and pull the hose off:



After that, un-do the two Torx bolts holding the hard pipe feed from the thermostat housing:



With the hard pipe undone, unscrew the 4 main bolts that attach the thermostat housing to the engine block followed by the two clip on sensors:


Last of all is this pesky temperature sensor on top. In order to get this thing off you need to unscrew it, while giving a slight pull until it comes out. once its out, simply reverse the steps and install your shiny, brand new thermostat housing & thermostat:


Sorry for the lack of pictures, if you have any questions or want more pictures post below and I'll update the thread Monday night. Have a good one, and I hope this helps someone out further on down the road!
 

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man draining the coolant system? just pull off that hose on the thermostat housing when its cold enough. I do this on any car i work on.
 

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I noticed a coolant leak coming from the bottom of the pipe feed to the thermostat. I'm trying to find out the name of the pipe feed in order to buy the seal or O-ring for it. I cannot locate the part for it. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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jbuzzett-

Take a look at the following link. I believe that bottom pipe is the coolant like to the oil cooler. The seal appears to be listed.

Also study this diagram. It appears that the bottom of block attachment point of the thermostat may has a plugged blind hole that has a gasket? Specifically 314 & 315 on the diagram. Looks like there's a tapped plug for a sensor that may not be used in the 1.8L North American Unit.


ENGINE ASM-1.8L L4 PART 3 FRONT COVER & COOLING. Fits: 2011 Chevrolet Cruze | Nalley Buick GMC Brunswick
 

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Thanks carbon02! I have a 2012 1.8L, I am assuming the 2011 parts would be the same. I think it's part number 320 (seal) that went bad. I cannot find any leak around the thermostat housing, it's directly under the pipe feed where it attaches to TSTAT.
 

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I think the 2012 would be the same. You could always check the catalogs over at GM Parts Direct: Your direct source for Genuine GM Parts as well, but they don't show the detail as much as the one I linked to.

That is the coolant line from the oil cooler back to the engine, if I'm analyzing the drawing correctly.

Rockauto has this ring, but you have to buy 10 of them in a package for 1.56 each. I wonder how finding these small parts will be at a local dealer? If they have them they may charge a small arm and a leg.

There's lot's of O-rings and seals on these 1.8L and 1.4L turbo engines. I have a feeling as we approach the 4 -5 year mark now for age, we're going to be tracking a lot of smells and leaks!

Glad to help.
 

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Thanks for posting Smurfenstein- my question is- i have the code on my 2011 cruze and when i look to buy the part inoline gm says its discontinued? And doesnt even direct you to another part#
What is this nonsense? I just need a thermostat. Do I really need to call GM and go through all of THAT bs?

Thanks!
 

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Still like making my so-called thermostat soup, just put it on the range in a pot of water with a good cooking thermometer so I can see with my own eyes what temperature it opens and closes at. I tie a wire to it so I can pull it out, heard a rumor that boiling water can burn you, do this three times so I think I have a winner.

Takes a few extra minutes, but they don't test this crap anymore, already had to take several back. And very frustrating to do all this work on your own time to learn you have a defective one. Testing in the vehicle is the worse place to find this out and even has been known to affect my language.

Now with the Cruze, more problems, will have to find a pressure cooker with a glass top to do the same thing, at my altitude water only boils at 209*F, doesn't get any hotter than this. Second problem is to apply 12V to the heater coil, suppose to open at even a lower temperature, but a guess, they don't specify this.

Removing the entire bumper to drain some of the coolant? Have you ever heard of siphoning out?
 

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Just occurred to me, why am I not using my environment chamber to test out a thermostat? Can hook a pyrometer to it know the exact temperature. And can peek through the window to see what it is doing.

Always paid extra for what is called a fail-safe thermostat, secondary means to open it in case that wax bellows blows. Sure a powerful spring in these things to keep it closed and particularly bad in an aluminum head engine. Not much leeway in these things.

So is the Cruze also fail-safe? Does it really need that heater? Available in either plastic of metal, which is better? Are these covered under that 5 year PT warranty? Did notice they are slightly more expensive than a conventional thermostat, like 3-4 times the price.

Ha, may think you know everything about a component, but then they change everything, just to learn you are just as dumb as you were before.
 

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I just did this fix, and I want to point out a potential problem that could be perceived as the thermostat housing.

The throttle body heater inlet pipe is a brittle pipe that connects down inside the top of the t-stat housing. It connects via something that looks like an evap connector, where you have to squeeze it, to release the sides.





When I pulled off the hose and removed the housing, I noticed this in the top:



Stupid me didn't look close enough, I thought it was just gunk and coolant crap.

Coolant was trickling out of the top of the housing, where this connector attached, despite my best efforts to get it connected tight. Once I started looking up this hose, I found that it has a bit that goes inside the thermostat housing, and the connector is only part of the whole connection. Looked back at the old part, grabbed a pick and pulled out the tip of the hose:





The orange buildup around the edges leads me to believe that the hose was cracked for a while and probably was the main source of my leak. When I pulled the hose off, I didn't even encounter any resistance, so I didn't know there was a tip inside the housing. The heat and time made removing the tip very difficult, I had to actually pierce the side of the tip with my pick to pull it out.

So I just thought I'd piggyback this along with the OP's writeup, give you all something to look out for. I didn't know about it and took the dealership's diag for granted. I just thought it was weird that I could find no failure points on the thermostat housing.
 

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I just did this fix, and I want to point out a potential problem that could be perceived as the thermostat housing.


So I just thought I'd piggyback this along with the OP's writeup, give you all something to look out for. I didn't know about it and took the dealership's diag for granted. I just thought it was weird that I could find no failure points on the thermostat housing.

I love your tag line!
 

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Thanks! Luckily, I'm multi-talented and was able to move on when I figured it out, lol.
 

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While these pictures are for the 1.8L the 1.4L shares a similar design with the connection from the water outlet back to the Coolant reservoir.

Just happened to watch a youtube video where the poster explained that the bottom portion of the connection was stuck down inside the water outlet.

People were buying water outlets, because they didn't realize that they had to "pick" the broken part of the old hose out of the connection before installing the new hose.

Thanks for sharing
 

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I had to replace my housing at 50k miles due to coolant leak. I found out that the crappy plastic housing cracks pretty easy(first I just thought a hoes was loose but was wromg). I strongly recommend upgrading to aluminum.
 

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I had to replace my housing at 50k miles due to coolant leak. I found out that the crappy plastic housing cracks pretty easy(first I just thought a hoes was loose but was wromg). I strongly recommend upgrading to aluminum.
And where, pray tell, are these available?
 
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