This replacement is indeed very simple. The only two potential trouble areas are making sure that you don't scrape dirt into the turbo housing when you wipe off the mating surface, and making sure you don't over-tighten the block bolt for the oil cooler line.Nice write-up! Really demonstrates how simple some repairs can be. This will save many owners a lot of time and money paying a shop rate to have this done.
Does a significant amount of oil drain from the block when you pull the line out?
This is one of those cases where the savings from doing it yourself can cover the cost of the tools needed. Between the savings of an "on-line" price for the line and likely 1.5 hours of shop rate labor, you could buy a nice 3/8" drive torque wrench and the required bit sets and still come out ahead.
That's the approach I've taken with most of my repairs in the past and I now have a huge assortment of tools that cover pretty much any reasonable job. Add to that the fun of learning along the way and the satisfaction of accomishment, and it's a win win.
A few reports have come in with failed turbos from what is suspected to be coked oil feed lines that starved the turbo of oil. That concern is part of my proactive replacement recommendation.For anyone else who doesn't feel like buying E-sockets, an 8mm 12 point will fit the E10 head. The bolts for this replacement are not tight so there's no worry of stripping them.
Also, the cruzetalk recommended replacement of 3yr/50k miles I know has come from some experiences here, but honestly I think if it is not leaking then do not worry about it. The line will not blow off, and the rust seen in pictures is surface rust, nothing compromising to the strength of the tube. The worst I see happening is the example picture above, small spots of oil, so fix it when that happens.
With that said, I replaced mine to be proactive (I like the new sealing design) at 68k miles. I will be keeping my old line as a backup if I ever need one.
The old line is the same diameter from what I could tell and did not have a heat shield.I got a question. 1st did the old tube have a heat shield? Is is a bigger oil line? Of course it looks like you are one of the kings of write ups here. You are the man.
I believe they are stainless. They sure aren't rusted.Did you notice if the exhaust manifold bolt-spacers were stainless steel-in the pictures they look rusty, reason I ask I was just looking at a 2015 and noticed copper plated bolts on the exhaust manifold, I'm concerned they may have had a bolt seizure problem if those are not stainless
It is covered, but for $25 and 30 minutes of work start to finish, it's cheaper and more convenient than taking my car to the dealer, and we will soon have quite a few members whose cars will need this repair done out of warranty.Assuming this isn't something that's covered under the powertrain
![]() | Oil feed tube. Turbocharger Oil Line. GM part number 55592600 1.4 LITER TURBO. MSRP $38.22, your cost $32.69 ![]() For all the part listed in item 10, just the line itself is $10.47. Looks like a standard piece of 3/16" brake line, turbo end is okay, standard caliper type fitting. But what's wrong with the engine end? Just the O-Ring? If so, why not just replace the O-Ring and smear the outside end of it with a good grade of aviation gasket maker. That boss in the engine looks large enough to hold a fitting for a standard double flare fitting, can be drilled and tapped. Do this, and it will never leak. Ha, am tempted to take mine in anyway, just so some exec at GM would talk to the engineer that approved this, you may have saved us a couple of cents, but costing us millions in warranty work. Really mickey mouse. |
The thing about it is that the new line has this heat shield. Keeps the heat from the turbo from coking/carbonizing the oil inside the line after you shut the engine off, at least for the length of line covered. Plus, the revised line for newer models has two o-rings instead of one, so at least for those members, replacing the entire line makes more sense than just replacing an o-ring.
Oil feed tube. Turbocharger Oil Line. GM part number 55592600
1.4 LITER TURBO. MSRP $38.22, your cost $32.69
For all the part listed in item 10, just the line itself is $10.47.
Looks like a standard piece of 3/16" brake line, turbo end is okay, standard caliper type fitting. But what's wrong with the engine end? Just the O-Ring? If so, why not just replace the O-Ring and smear the outside end of it with a good grade of aviation gasket maker.
That boss in the engine looks large enough to hold a fitting for a standard double flare fitting, can be drilled and tapped. Do this, and it will never leak.
Ha, am tempted to take mine in anyway, just so some exec at GM would talk to the engineer that approved this, you may have saved us a couple of cents, but costing us millions in warranty work. Really mickey mouse.
Two o-rings and two copper seals are included with the replacement feed pipe.Are all 3 O-rings included with the turbo oil feed pipe ?