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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Estimated Time 2.4 Hours @ $80 (My shops hour rate) or $192 (WAY MORE AT DEALER!)
Tools Needed for the job at hand. A lot of willpower:$#angry:
Sockets
1/2" 15MM
1/2" 18MM
1/2" 19MM

Wrenches
14MM
18MM

3/8" Drive Ratchet
Hammer
1/2 Impact if You Can:th_coolio:
1/2" 24MM
Small Bottle Jack
Spring Compressor
Floor Jack T40 and T50 1/2" Drive's
2 Jack Stands
Mechanics Gloves
Pick
Torque Wrench
1/2" Drive Ratchet
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Step 1:
Raise and Support The Body of Vehicle.
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Step 2: Use 1/2" Impact and 1/2" 19MM Socket and Remove Wheel. And Support Lower Control Arm with Small Bottle Jack.
Vehicle Automotive tire Car Tire Mid-size car
Auto part Tire Automotive tire Brake Automotive wheel system


Step 3: Use 1/2" 24MM and 1/2" Ratchet and Remove the Upper Nut and Plate That Attaches the Strut to Body.
Vehicle Car Auto part Engine

Took Picture at My House lol

Here's the Fun Part if Someone That Lowered There Cruze Found an Easier Way Post it Please. No Picture on This Step.
Step 4: Remove the Brake Line That is Attached to the Strut and Then Take the 1/2" T40 Socket and Ratchet and Remove the Sway Bar Link, Then Remove the 2 bolts that attach the spindle/knuckle with the 18MM Socket and wrench. Then Hope you Don't Beat the Crap out of your hands when removing the strut.




Step 5: Install Strut into Spring Compressor.(Professional use should do this step if never used one)
Machine Wheel


Step 6: Take 1/2" 24MM Socket and Impact and Remove Nut that holds Bearing onto Strut.
Auto part Tire Automotive tire Wheel Vehicle


Step 7: Remove Upper Strut Mount Bearing and Replace with Brand New GM OEM Part#13505131 Buy 2 ALWAYS! I Went Ahead and Removed my Bump Stops After Seeing Them.
Auto part
Wood
Auto part Machine


Torque Specs ZOOM in to See.
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Then Comes the Other Tricky Part Installing the Strut.First attach the sway bar link kit fully tightened. Then What I did was Held on to where the brake line attaches to the strut and shifted it and turned it until it fell into place then took the hammer and tapped the spindle or knuckle until the two were joined then take the pick and stab into the upper bolt hole. Then install SPC 81250 Alignment Bolt Kit. 14mm wrench and 15mm Socket
Auto part



Then Just Reinstall Everything you took apart (FOLLOWING TORQUE SPECS.) Someone pointed out that I didn't have adequate torque specs which I thought I did But you cant really see it but when reinstalling you rims use the recommended torque spec of 80 ft lb. Torque specs for the upper nut in the strut is 48ft lbs if you cant read it.



Then Repeat the Directions Above on the opposite side.
Motor vehicle Vehicle Automobile repair shop Car Tire



Then Have a Professional Alignment Done ( I Have Access to a Hunter ALignment Machine)
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Fixed
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I dont understand what the point of replacing them is?It too me 25 mins to change those to coils.Why do you need a alignment on a part that doesnt move your toe or chamber?
When you remove struts out of a vehicle you move how the angle of the knuckle is in refrence to the strut since the adjustment for our camber is the upper bolt that attaches your knuckle to the strut.You remove the strut you mess up the camber.

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I would be careful using a half inch impact to remove the lugs if that's what you did. I use mine to remove lugs from tractors and trailers that are torqued at 450 lbs. **** even my 3/8 impact I wouldn't use. Lugs are only torqued to 80 - 100lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I always use torque sticks that have rating we use 5 different torque specifications I have one that is a 80ft lbs.
 

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I always use torque sticks that have rating we use 5 different torque specifications I have one that is a 80ft lbs.
I feel you should include that in your write up. Most who view how to's do so because they don't know what they are doing. They might just grab an impact and fire away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I feel you should include that in your write up. Most who view how to's do so because they don't know what they are doing. They might just grab an impact and fire away.
Added it was supposed to be in that pic of the specs but you cant really read it.
 

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Added it was supposed to be in that pic of the specs but you cant really read it.
My comment was mainly about step two. I wasn't trying to be a d.ck about it just wanted to prevent any possible thread stripping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
My comment was mainly about step two. I wasn't trying to be a d.ck about it just wanted to prevent any possible thread stripping.
No I want it to be as clear and easy to read. And I have always used an impact to remove wheels its not taking them off that you got to be concerned about its putting them back on.
 

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When you remove struts out of a vehicle you move how the angle of the knuckle is in refrence to the strut since the adjustment for our camber is the upper bolt that attaches your knuckle to the strut.You remove the strut you mess up the camber.

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but the top bolt has one in and one out?How can it change anything when removing it and installing it again doesnt move it?
 

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Now the question.... Why are you replacing them?

Every single car I have owned(even the cruze at less than 25,000miles) makes strut bearing noise once in awhile. This is especially true when cold out, its either a metallic clink sound or a thud/clunk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Now the question.... Why are you replacing them?

Every single car I have owned(even the cruze at less than 25,000miles) makes strut bearing noise once in awhile. This is especially true when cold out, its either a metallic clink sound or a thud/clunk.
Well I have had the popping noise since day one and then when I lowered it I guess it didn't help the fact lol. So then they started to make noises so I replaced them. The noise was like a stretching cord sound.
 

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No I want it to be as clear and easy to read. And I have always used an impact to remove wheels its not taking them off that you got to be concerned about its putting them back on.
Ya I guess so. These cars are new enough it isn't likely to strip inside the hub. I strip studs on a daily basis on tractor trailers. All rusted nasty studs that have lugs replaced so much in their lifetime then using a one inch impact to hammer them off strips them inside the hub every once in a while. This is where my concern stemmed from Lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ya I guess so. These cars are new enough it isn't likely to strip inside the hub. I strip studs on a daily basis on tractor trailers. All rusted nasty studs that have lugs replaced so much in their lifetime then using a one inch impact to hammer them off strips them inside the hub every once in a while. This is where my concern stemmed from Lol
Oh yes I also work on bigger vehicles too I work on motorhomes.
 
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Found two nasty things on the upper strut bearings on my 04 Cavalier I didn't like. First and far most, the upper and lower races were not tempered and were egg shaped. Could actually straighten them out in my vise. If you are familiar with Young's modulus of elasticity, this modulus was exceeded. Second thing was the balls were all rusty and were never greased.

Did show this to my dealer, though luck, your car is 150 miles out of warranty. Could have taken GM to court on this, but for 20 bucks per bearing, wasn't worth my effort. With the new bearings, first I did a stress test, they did spring back to the original size and maintained symmetry. But for the second issue, where is the grease? Hardly a thin coat of oil on each ball bearing. I packed those full with axle wheel grease. That was over 90K miles ago, still in great shape.

Was hoping you would pull your new bearing apart, if you can, to see what's inside. Was tempted to check my bearings in the Cruze, but the heck with that noise, still under warranty.

In removing the struts, two bolts with nuts, just like on the Cruze, but used an engraver from each bolt to the yoke. So I could put those bolts exactly how I removed them. Waste of time, those two bottom bolts are symmetrical, not off centered like used on my expensive cars. That would be for camber adjustment, didn't make a bit of difference how they were rotated, but followed my marks anyway.

For the strut towel bolts with the nuts loosened, wasn't any play whatsoever. Paint marks lined up exactly. But still got an alignment check for 15 bucks, all was perfect.
 

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Thanks for posting how to remove the front struts! I'll be following this shortly when replacing my suspension with more OEM parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for posting how to remove the front struts! I'll be following this shortly when replacing my suspension with more OEM parts.
Yes it fairly simple if you need any help pm me and ill give you my cell number

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