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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Found two nasty things on the upper strut bearings on my 04 Cavalier I didn't like. First and far most, the upper and lower races were not tempered and were egg shaped. Could actually straighten them out in my vise. If you are familiar with Young's modulus of elasticity, this modulus was exceeded. Second thing was the balls were all rusty and were never greased.

Did show this to my dealer, though luck, your car is 150 miles out of warranty. Could have taken GM to court on this, but for 20 bucks per bearing, wasn't worth my effort. With the new bearings, first I did a stress test, they did spring back to the original size and maintained symmetry. But for the second issue, where is the grease? Hardly a thin coat of oil on each ball bearing. I packed those full with axle wheel grease. That was over 90K miles ago, still in great shape.

Was hoping you would pull your new bearing apart, if you can, to see what's inside. Was tempted to check my bearings in the Cruze, but the heck with that noise, still under warranty.

In removing the struts, two bolts with nuts, just like on the Cruze, but used an engraver from each bolt to the yoke. So I could put those bolts exactly how I removed them. Waste of time, those two bottom bolts are symmetrical, not off centered like used on my expensive cars. That would be for camber adjustment, didn't make a bit of difference how they were rotated, but followed my marks anyway.

For the strut towel bolts with the nuts loosened, wasn't any play whatsoever. Paint marks lined up exactly. But still got an alignment check for 15 bucks, all was perfect.
Sorry I saw this post and still have them forgot to take pictures tho I will tomorrow.

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Hey NickD I have the bearings split apart but my sd card us all jacked up on my phone and my interenet is messing up lol so I can't post pictures until hopefully this evening.

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Going with the OEM bearing was a good idea. We've been having bad luck with Monroe lately at the shop. Their product quality seems to be doing down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Going with the OEM bearing was a good idea. We've been having bad luck with Monroe lately at the shop. Their product quality seems to be doing down.
I haven't had any problems with Monroe anything but I went oem becausr of the new design.

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I have the exact same noise which started a few thousand miles after I lowered it. So they do have redesigned units that are supposed to be better? If you have a part number that would be awesome, sorry if you posted it and I missed it. I'm sure it did, but I want to confirm, no more noise?

And thanks for the write up, it'll be very helpful for someone who has never done it before.

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I have the exact same noise which started a few thousand miles after I lowered it. So they do have redesigned units that are supposed to be better? If you have a part number that would be awesome, sorry if you posted it and I missed it. I'm sure it did, but I want to confirm, no more noise?

And thanks for the write up, it'll be very helpful for someone who has never done it before.

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GM#13505131

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
but the top bolt has one in and one out?How can it change anything when removing it and installing it again doesnt move it?
Sorry didn't see this post but when you remove your strut mount on these thay are attached to the top of the strut so you have to compress the coil to remove. When you replaced your factory struts with coil-over they are probably designed different as thia DIY was intended for factory struts.

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The stock springs need to be compressed quite a bit to get the upper mount off.

Something I noticed today was that the OEM front suspension is designed to have no caster/camber adjustments. The OEM bolts even have ridging on them to anchor the knuckle relative to the strut.

H3ll, thanks for the writeup! Following this, I was done with both fronts in ~3 hours, even with my cordless impact dying halfway through (my fault for not checking my spare battery) and taking a 15 minute break since it was blistering hot outside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
The stock springs need to be compressed quite a bit to get the upper mount off.

Something I noticed today was that the OEM front suspension is designed to have no caster/camber adjustments. The OEM bolts even have ridging on them to anchor the knuckle relative to the strut.

H3ll, thanks for the writeup! Following this, I was done with both fronts in ~3 hours, even with my cordless impact dying halfway through (my fault for not checking my spare battery) and taking a 15 minute break since it was blistering hot outside.
Wonderful glad someone had to use this and it worked hiw was installing the strut back into the vehicle did you find an eaiser way besides the way I described.
And most your front wheel drive cars take a special bolt for the alignment if you lined everything back right you might get lucky other than that alignment should be done on the safe side so no tire wear occurs.
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H3ll, I don't know how you folks do it at the dealer, but I found my pass-through socket set invaluable for getting the sway bar endlinks off. Put the T40 through the middle of the pass-through socket and scissor the sockets together after my impact loosened the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
H3ll, I don't know how you folks do it at the dealer, but I found my pass-through socket set invaluable for getting the sway bar endlinks off. Put the T40 through the middle of the pass-through socket and scissor the sockets together after my impact loosened the bolt.
I use the same thing but what I meant was when you installed the strut did you fist hook the sway bar link to it then struggle or did you install the strut then install the sway bar link.

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Quick question, I just installed the Eibach spring kit on my cruze and all is well besides the plate that attaches the strut to body in the engine bay above the bearing is not sitting down on the strut tower. I believe this is causing a barely noticeable shudder in first gear under light throttle. I've taken it apart multiple times trying to tighten the nuts more and get the top bracket to snug up more. I think the top plate/ bracket when tightened up is stopping on the nut that holds the strut bearing down. Any help would be appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Quick question, I just installed the Eibach spring kit on my cruze and all is well besides the plate that attaches the strut to body in the engine bay above the bearing is not sitting down on the strut tower. I believe this is causing a barely noticeable shudder in first gear under light throttle. I've taken it apart multiple times trying to tighten the nuts more and get the top bracket to snug up more. I think the top plate/ bracket when tightened up is stopping on the nut that holds the strut bearing down. Any help would be appreciated
Can you please post pictures of the upper strut mounts or were the problem is.
 

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I am having that exact same issue with my B&G springs, I'm also getting the same noise out of my passenger side strut bearing....I'm pretty sure my warranty is void so I'm going to have to replace it myself....or will it cover it under the warranty? pretty sure they'd claim it was my fault since I lowered the car.

Chad
 

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What the trq specs for the nut that goes between the strut mount and before the top hat?
 

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I would also like to know how much to torque the nut between the mount and above the hat. I put lowering springs on and everything is good and snug (other than maybe the struts themselves) and I get tons of (not bottoming out) clunking. Makes me feel like I'm back in my 2005 malibu that had 200,000 miles on the factory struts haha.
 

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Just want to necro bump this thread to say thanks to @H3LLON3ARTH for posting pics and the procedure for this.
I ordered the struts, bearings and plates from RockAuto and had it all done in about 2 hours :)
I will say I had access to the tools needed (save for the wall mounted spring compressor--used the old fashioned spring clamps).

I did mark the steering knuckle with an engraver just to be sure on proper alignment, but found that neither the knuckle, nor the strut had oval holes so it went back in the same place the old struts came out. I will however, schedule to get my alignment checked.

Anyway yeah, thanks!
 

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Great how to and it helped me a ton! However, how do people torque down the top nuts? Once they are so tight, it just spins the whole thing. I was able to get them off by breaking them loose while the vehicle was on the ground. But when I put it back together with the torque wrench it spins everything before reaching the required torque. It seems to be where it was before so I figured they would be fine but today on my way to work I hit a decent bump and heard a clunk which worries me. Other than that there is no noise (before there was an annoying rattling which is why I replaced the mounts until I get new shocks and struts.
 

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I believe the stem of the threaded rod of GM struts has a spot for a torx wrench. Hold the stem with the Torx or allen wrench while tightening the nut with a box wrench, or a torque wrench with a crow foot.
 
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