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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So today I installed an aftermarket cruise control on my Eco.

I got the Rostra 250-9003 for 159$ with free 2 day delivery.

Tools Needed:
Sockets:
8mm
10mm
13mm

Flat head screwdriver

Dremel or 3/8 drill bit and drill.

Set come with controller w/ wire harness and loose connectors. Second wire harness. Also 2 wire splice connectors. These instructions will help with the ones that come with them (very simple and unclear http://www.thecruisecontrolstore.com/9003cruz.pdf)

First I removed the steering wheel cowl. The top pops off and there are 3 8mm (I used 9/32) bolts to remove. One is underneath and can been seen without popping the top of the cowl off. The other 2 will require the key in the ignition to turn the wheel right and left to unscrew them.




After this I removed the passenger side cover (the one with the pocket by the floor on the left side) to expose the BCM. (Yes I know I mistyped it in the picture)



Then I disconnected the battery w/ 10mm socket.

Now at this point I felt to fish the second harness though the I needed more exposure, so I took off the lower panel. This has the light switch and OBDII connector attached. There are 5 bolts. 4 are visible, but one requires the removal of the side panel by the door. I just used a flat head screwdriver to do this. I left the OBD connector attached but removed the headlight connector. There is a red CPA on the connector that needs to be lifted to depress the locking mechanism.



I took the second harness which attaches to the BCM connector and fed it though the console. I used a hanger and my hands to fish it though. On the driver side there was a small slot that used as the lead in.





After this I connected the 2 splicers to wires in terminal location 5 and 9. 5 was purple and yellow. 9 was grey (I think it was starting to get dark, I just used the connector location, more accurate than color) On the bottom of the connector is number markings to you can see what direction they are numbered in. Then I connected the (In my case) Blue and Green wires.

I then connected the ground, unlike the directions it came with a eye terminal not a U terminal. I had to use the screw to tap the hole bigger. After I screwed it all the way in, I covered the edge of the metal with duck tape as it was sharp and made a tape harness covering for the wire. (as seen in picture)



Then I moved to the driver side. Before I taped the hole in the steering cowl, I plugged the terminals from the controller into the harness I had fed without the connecters they provided. (You can't attach these till the end or you will have to take it apart again). I used tape to keep the terminal separate and took it for a test drive.
http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv224/SebastianMorris/Aftermarket Install/DSCF2124.jpg

When I got back I decided to put the controller higher than they recommend. It was a risk but it looked like it would fit. I knew I wouldn't be able to see it, but honestly, you can't really see it wherever you put it. What was important for me was anyone with bigger legs driving it not bumping it. I mocked it up and found a tight but working location I liked better. I used a dremel to cut the opening, I cut a bit on the low side and had to move the hole up a 16th of an inch to attach the bolt but the way it fastens I knew this wasn't a issue (You can't see the hole at all and it is secure)



Then I tightened the back, attached the connectors and plugged them into the second harness.


After this I put everything back together.



Since there are only 3 buttons and the controls are standard I don't need to see it to operate it, and I like that its hidden when driving relaxed, if you sit up you can see it perfect so others can use it if needed, it actually faces up at a 40 deg angle. (Intentional)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Got the chance to use this on the way into work today. So glad I installed it. So hoping I can add the stock one some day in the future. (hehe)

Overall the instal was easier than I thought. There are a few things I didn't like.

Directions were crappy and unclear.

Wire colors between the 2 harnesses were different shades of color and different wire jackets. It's a good example of being cheap IMO.

Eyelet terminal was too small for the bolt you attach it to, no protective covering for the ground wire which for where they say to place it is really needed.

Wires on second harness were all different lengths, which was stupid.

Buttons on controller feel cheap and need to be pressed firmly to activate. In fact I am considering opening up the controllor and seeing what it would take to do a custom wire job with custom buttons on the dash or mini buttons on a aftermarket shift knob. Actually I really like that idea.

Things I liked were the tap in terminal connections, 2 harness mating, having cruise control.

Most challenging part was fishing through the center console and tapping the shroud, its easy if you go with their placement, more diffcult if you want to place it somewhere else.

Total job with testing took about 1.5 hours.

Back to the shifter button idea, based on the wire gauge (24 I think) coming out of the controller, the power and amp requirements have go to be small (24 GA is 3.5 amp max). It would make using it quicker.
 

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Very nice job. Great photos.
 

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FYI... The factory cruise control switch (steering wheel mounted) is only $22.48 on gmpartsdirect. Could probably wire this in without much work.
 

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I put in the Rostra unit and this thread helped a lot, especially the location of the 2 hidden bolts for the lower steering wheel shroud. One of the pictures shows disconnecting the positive terminal of the battery. That is a bad idea - you should disconnect the negative terminal instead because it almost eliminates any chance of shorting out the battery.

I found I could route the wires very easily from the wheel down to the BCM by removing the left hand side panel for the lower console.

My cruise control works great. I took a 2,200 mile trip 2 weeks ago and I really needed cruise. The little green indicator lamp doesn't light up but the DIC gives a message when you set the speed. I was a little worried that maybe I would have problems since my car is a manual transmission but I guess there are 2 clutch switches from the factory, one that measures that the clutch is all the way down for starting the motor and the other that measures that the clutch has been depressed a little bit to turn off the cruise. Mine definitely shuts down the cruise even if you hardly touch the clutch pedal. The Rostra manual comes with a warning that you shouldn't shift to neutral without the clutch because the unit will not understand the motor is disconnected from the wheels and the motor will race to the rev limiter.
 

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and i have to call fail....

i work at a electronics place and u placed the switch in the wrong spot u have to follow the directions i know u have the right one as us and its the same all the way around on the paper there is the location for where the switch is to be placed where u have it u cant telescope your strearing wheel all the way in.... its to go right inside the part where the lever to move tilt the wheel. next time we do one i will take a pic and show... also it isnt a bad idea to solder on the green wire. it talked to the bcm through resistances, correct soldering insures that the correct resistances are seen at the wire
 

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I am going to be installing this over the weekend. My question after thanking you Quazar, is to ask, in your
step-by-step photo essay, as well as in the online video, there is little attention paid to the control box and
the 4-pin connectors I see attached to the '2nd harness'.



See now where I got all those wacky questions I just deleted?? My kit has no little square, black box.
So I tried to match this photo, widely available online, to the video of the 'install' and the great photos
in this thread. Not to mention my own newly-delivered KIT. I am screaming, WHAT ABOUT THE THE BLACK BOX, lol.

So I deleted all my weird rambling questions
 

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It's pretty easy and I doubt you'll be confused by the wires. I'm assuming you're talking about a 2011 Cruze. The wires down at the floor console area are easy if you get the right colors and pin positions. The wires coming from the stalk need to be free and out of the connector to go through the hole in the steering wheel shroud. Then the two connectors just go together. I ran my on a test drive before buttoning things up and I think I had to de-pin the connector to get the wires right at the end.

Be kind of careful where you drill the hole in the shroud. I made mine pretty close to the dash to be sure my knee wouldn't hit it and now my steering wheel can't go all the way forward.

I guess you have this instruction sheet....

http://www.rostra.com/manuals/250-9003_Form5264RTP.pdf

Here's a video I used.

Chevy Cruze 250-9003 - YouTube
 

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I apapreciate the reply, and once I GOT THE KIT I realized I needed to know what
I was talking about before I posted. This kit does not come with a black box,
apparently. I saw the photo so may places, stalk, harnesses, connectors, splices
and a little black box/module. So unless my kit is incomplete, I worried for nothing.
I scoured youtub for videos and watched the one I am sure you linked to, and
all it did was confuse me, due to that photo that had a black module. (not the stalk)


I am gonna put it on tonight. Like most of you, I cannot live without cruise on the Cruze.
I stepped down a notch in Pkg to make sure I didn't drain my bank account, but in the
end I had enough left that I could have gone up a class and got the model with cruise.
The older you get, the more long trips HURT your legs, and it was 'cruise the Cruze' or
DUMP the Cruze.
 

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This is what had me messed up. Maybe I am STILL Messed up.
I see this photo over and over, but MY kit in hand has no black
box...



My kit looks A LOT like this but has no square black module.
In the end, who cares, it is never mentioned in any online
materials, no videos, no print....but WHY is it in THE PICTURE?
Hmmmmmm.
 

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Is there any possible warranty problems with this unit? I have a 7year 75000 mile warranty to think about so i was gona a get a stock unit from gm.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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I am sure that it voids SOMETHING, I mean the dealers are like insurance companies, they can't WAIT
to see that stem sitting behind your wheel so they can bounce you. But I was not going another mile
without cruise control.
And there is another 20+ page thread RIFE with frustration over what works and what doesn't work
and sadness and victory and frustration and wasted purchases and crackpot theories and some things
work for some people and not for others.....I mean it's just crazy. And not only that, people are calling
dealers who are saying "I can't help you in any way." Others are saying 'bring it on in, we'll take care of
it." I am lucky in that I bought this car from a dealership where the owner is a drinking buddy of mine.
He has made things happen for me before and I hope he would do it again if I really need it.
So who knows...

SO AS IT STANDS at 7:13 Central Time I am watching Big Brother upstairs in the air conditioning. Downstairs
there is a 2011 Automatic trans CRUZE with a working Rostra FobKnob cruise control. It took me two hours to
handle, owing to the temperature outside. It is 98 in the shade. I was SO hot and tired and heat exhausted
that I was walking around like a zombie. I made no real errors, but everything happened SO SLLLooooowww.
I decided against using the clip on splicers, that statement about the unit reading voltages to determine how
it reacts to speed really stuck with me. I trimmed 1.25 inches off the harness wires and shaved a 1/4 inch of
insulation on the BCM wires. I made a 'needle's eye'-type passageway in the strands of the CRUZE wiring and
passed the 1.25 inch wire through the hole, then wrapped the excess around and around the CRUZE wire and
taped it off. I couldn't find my solder. I also did what some people did and removed BOTH kick panels and of
course, routing the harness then was not a fishing job, you could see right through the center console. I dremel-
ground a little metal off of the inside of the eyelet on the ground wire end and so the bolt was super TIGHT going
through it so that I know I am getting maximum contact, lol.

My stem light comes on, my DIC indicates that the Cruise control is maintaining XX speed, and the DANG thing
just WORKS. Warranty SHMArranty. Thanks to the OP for creating such a dynamite visual guide. Without that
I am not sure I wouldn't have PAID someone to do the job. My history is "Me know problem, Me buy part, ME not
quite be able to do job, Me have to pay technician to do it who invariably will not use my part that I bought...
 

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So today I installed an aftermarket cruise control on my Eco.

I got the Rostra 250-9003 for 159$ with free 2 day delivery.

Tools Needed:
Sockets:
8mm
10mm
13mm

Flat head screwdriver

Dremel or 3/8 drill bit and drill.

Set come with controller w/ wire harness and loose connectors. Second wire harness. Also 2 wire splice connectors. These instructions will help with the ones that come with them (very simple and unclear http://www.thecruisecontrolstore.com/9003cruz.pdf)

First I removed the steering wheel cowl. The top pops off and there are 3 8mm (I used 9/32) bolts to remove. One is underneath and can been seen without popping the top of the cowl off. The other 2 will require the key in the ignition to turn the wheel right and left to unscrew them.




After this I removed the passenger side cover (the one with the pocket by the floor on the left side) to expose the BCM. (Yes I know I mistyped it in the picture)



Then I disconnected the battery w/ 10mm socket.

Now at this point I felt to fish the second harness though the I needed more exposure, so I took off the lower panel. This has the light switch and OBDII connector attached. There are 5 bolts. 4 are visible, but one requires the removal of the side panel by the door. I just used a flat head screwdriver to do this. I left the OBD connector attached but removed the headlight connector. There is a red CPA on the connector that needs to be lifted to depress the locking mechanism.



I took the second harness which attaches to the BCM connector and fed it though the console. I used a hanger and my hands to fish it though. On the driver side there was a small slot that used as the lead in.





After this I connected the 2 splicers to wires in terminal location 5 and 9. 5 was purple and yellow. 9 was grey (I think it was starting to get dark, I just used the connector location, more accurate than color) On the bottom of the connector is number markings to you can see what direction they are numbered in. Then I connected the (In my case) Blue and Green wires.

I then connected the ground, unlike the directions it came with a eye terminal not a U terminal. I had to use the screw to tap the hole bigger. After I screwed it all the way in, I covered the edge of the metal with duck tape as it was sharp and made a tape harness covering for the wire. (as seen in picture)



Then I moved to the driver side. Before I taped the hole in the steering cowl, I plugged the terminals from the controller into the harness I had fed without the connecters they provided. (You can't attach these till the end or you will have to take it apart again). I used tape to keep the terminal separate and took it for a test drive.
http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/vv224/SebastianMorris/Aftermarket Install/DSCF2124.jpg

When I got back I decided to put the controller higher than they recommend. It was a risk but it looked like it would fit. I knew I wouldn't be able to see it, but honestly, you can't really see it wherever you put it. What was important for me was anyone with bigger legs driving it not bumping it. I mocked it up and found a tight but working location I liked better. I used a dremel to cut the opening, I cut a bit on the low side and had to move the hole up a 16th of an inch to attach the bolt but the way it fastens I knew this wasn't a issue (You can't see the hole at all and it is secure)



Then I tightened the back, attached the connectors and plugged them into the second harness.


After this I put everything back together.



Since there are only 3 buttons and the controls are standard I don't need to see it to operate it, and I like that its hidden when driving relaxed, if you sit up you can see it perfect so others can use it if needed, it actually faces up at a 40 deg angle. (Intentional)
I had someone else install mine and I cannot see it. I think it is mounted in the flat portion by the steering wheel tilt adjustment. I wonder how much trouble it would be to move it so I could see it? Probably need to unplug it an drill a new hole in the shroud? Since the only thing you can gain be seeing it is whether it is on or not; Would it truly be worth the trouble?
 

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haha, you need to learn how to delete all the quoted photos you don't really want, lol.

I would advise you to do what everyone must do; to quickly learn the mechanics of it and
deal with not seeing it. When this unit is "correctly installed" you should not be able
to see it. If you install it where you can see it, sometimes it interferes with the tele-
scoping of your steering wheel. YOU CAN observe the first few photos in the procedure
and pop off the top of the steering wheel shroud, then un-screw the screws holding the
lower shroud on. (My advice before doing that is to roll your car back and lay down a few
puddles of dish soap and a little water for your front tires to rest on, that turning the
steering wheel 90 degrees in park is ROUGH on the vehicle and tires.)

Once that lower shroud is off, you have access to the alignment wedges that are
in line with the stem's threaded end, which has a series of two wedge shaped "washers"
one of which you can SEE on your control NOW on the outside. It's like a fat, black washer,
but it is built with an angle. There is a matching wedge on the inside of the shroud. You just
need to loosen the lock nut to get them to be rotatable...By varying the rotation of those
wedges, you can get the controller to sit level or droop or sit high. Mine is kind of a droop,
where it looks like it COULD be hit by my knee but won't. It is basically on the same level as
the ignition switch. I can 'see it' , but while I am driving, I wouldn't call it exactly helpful
that I can see it. I would need reading glasses to actually SEE what I am seeing, haha.

So like I said, you CAN alter the angle in 4-5 ways with those wedge washers, but I doubt it will
aid you MUCH. Much better to learn the easy controls.

Also, unplugging it will not be sufficient to create and use a new hole. You have to release all the pins
from the connectors since they obviously will not fit through a 3/8 inch hole. I THINK that can be
tough, but do-able. Others here might be able to tell you how that is accomplished. If your install
person did it like he was supposed to, you still have quite a bit of angle variance by manipulating those
two black spacer wedges. As "easy" as it is to pop the two shrouds, it might be worth it to you to
see if you can get a position you like better. The lower screw for the bottom shroud is a bear to
get back in, at least it was for me. ;) Good luck if you decide to give it a shot.
 

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I mentioned it in my reply above, but I wanted to show something I did that
might help people who install the Rostra in the future and feel a little squeamish
about using a questionable splicer or cutting the wires in any way, even to solder
them. I am likely voiding parts of my warranty no matter what, but I wanted to do
as little damage as possible to the wiring harnesses on the CRUZE. I used this method
to accomplish my goal..



Like I said, its likely just me, but I did NOT want to cut or splice into those wires in any
real way. This provided me a good alternative. There is some missing insulation, but the
wire is still basically the same conductivity-wise. SOmeone has mentioned that the computer
really wants accurate voltages to work well, and to me, this was a best chance to keep that
system reliable.

--------------------------------

I also made a stupid mistake that I am going to have to disassemble the shrouds for...

I stole Quasar's photo and cropped it here to show you my error. I was routing the wire
that exits the controller stem so that it could go down from where it was and for some reason
I decided to send it down through a little rectangular opening in the lower shroud as seen
in the stolen photo below



I have NO IDEA why there is a little square hole there, but I THINK it is hurting my telescoping in
some way that I don't really know about yet, maybe not, but I am going to disassemble it tonight
and route it through the top and out of the shroud and then down. I can SEE the connectors
hanging, lol. Need to re-do that.
 

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I had someone else install mine and I cannot see it. I think it is mounted in the flat portion by the steering wheel tilt adjustment. I wonder how much trouble it would be to move it so I could see it? Probably need to unplug it an drill a new hole in the shroud? Since the only thing you can gain be seeing it is whether it is on or not; Would it truly be worth the trouble?


As you can see in my photo, I have installed it with the fatter portion of the angled wedge in the
12 o'clock position, so that the fob is forced to droop down more, and can be seen peeking out
below the steering wheel. But again, I can't SEE anything without a pair of glasses on, which I do
not use to drive, at least not very often. So I just learned it on the way to work this morning.


 

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As a new member here I don't want to keep harping on something that someone else has commented on a previous thread but...

I have a 2012 Cruze MT LS. I have seen a post earlier about just buying the cruise controls which would be nice however you would be stuck trying to cut the rubber on the steering wheel to install it(provided it would actually even be able to go in it's correct spot).

My thought is since GM has the cruise control locked out via VIN# why not do this:

1. Purchase a replacement steering wheel that has all the controls already in place.
2. figure out which wires are used for cruise control, +/- etc
3. Purchase the Rostra 250-9614
4. instead of mounting the control arm from the kit, because most likely there are 3 switches, one LED in the arm. Figure out which wires are for which switch and the LED and use the wires from the original equipment wiring and connect them to their correct place where the rostra arm would plug into the control box?
5. The wiring diagram that they give you looks pretty straight forward and if works then all the better.

Thoughts from any electronic techies?
 

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I have a 2012 Cruze LS with the manual tranny and the wheel with the audio controls. Yesterday I installed a Rostra cruise control. It was a fairly simple install and it works like a charm. It's not perfect... the little stalk is hidden behind the wheel and there is no indication that cruise is on except for the little LED on the hidden stalk. But the thing just works which is what I wanted. I bought it on eBay for $270. I guess I could have called the dealer to see about the whole wheel swap thing but I kinda like doing things myself.
 
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