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Finding the tools specified seems to be a bit difficult.. so I kept on searching and found that people sell a kit.. anyone have any places to buy these tools that arent from overseas?
The instructions I have call for 4 tools. They also call for removing the main drive belt, and the instructions for that call for a 5th tool.
  • EN-6333 Timing Belt Tensioner Locking Pin
  • EN-6340 Camshaft Locking Tool
  • EN-6625 Crankshaft Locking Device
  • EN-45059 Angle Meter (<-- expensive!!)

  • EN-6349 Drive Belt Tensioner Locking Pin
In the pic is the tool kit I just purchased from eBay, $22 shipped. It includes everything but the expensive electronic angle sensor, for which much less costly (non-electronic) equivalents are available at parts stores. The kit also includes two other tools which are not needed for the 1.8L LUW engine. But I think they may be used in other dual cam motors.

I think I have all the special tools, but I'm still gathering parts for this, and have a few thousand miles left before it's due. I plan to post back with some pics, but would like some input on two things:
  • What's the best thread here to post pics to? This one? (1.8L LUW)

  • Should I install a new water pump while I'm at it? Many of the parts kits include one, at added cost, but I suspect my car already received an upgraded pump previously. (Will try to verify that later.)

  • What can your recommend for a parts kit? I'm currently focused on the ACDELCO TCK338 {#19298706} at Rockauto. It includes the belt, the tensioner and the idler pulley, but does not include a water pump, nor any bolts. Bolts for crank pulley, belt idler pulley and belt tensioner are supposed to be replaced. Not sure if motor mount bolts (passenger end) can be re-used - instructions are not clear. Right now, I plan to get the pulley and tensioner bolts at the dealer.

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1,129 Posts
  • Should I install a new water pump while I'm at it?

  • What can your recommend for a parts kit? I'm currently focused on the ACDELCO TCK338 {#19298706} at Rockauto. It includes the belt, the tensioner with bolt, and the idler pulley, but does not include a water pump...
I ended up skipping the water pump. The kit I bought (listed above) did not include it, and I opted not to replace it. The water pump hasn't shown any signs of trouble, nor is it listed as a maintenance item in the owner's manual, so I opted to let it ride.

One correction: The kit above does include one bolt. But three are needed. Go figure.

The instructions call for replacing the timing belt tensioner mounting bolt, the idler mounting bolt, and the crankshaft pulley bolt, but the kit only includes the one for the timing belt tensioner.

Not sure why the kit only has 1 when 3 are needed. If I get a chance, maybe I'll bounce it off the vendor.

The bolt part numbers are:

o crankshaft pulley

o bolts for idler pulley and for mounting belt tensioner
55570291 (qty: 2)

<quasi rant>I make no claims of being an expert on torque-to-yield (TTY) fasteners, but I wonder how necessary it really is to replace these bolts.

The fastening spec for the timing belt tensioner is:
  • First pass to 20 Nm / 15 lb-ft
  • Second pass an additional 120 degrees
  • Final pass to an additional 15 degrees
It is the same for the timing idler as well.

This sequence is similar to other automotive repair procedures I've done before where new bolts are required to be used. Supposedly, this stretches the bolt which leaves it unable to be reused presumably because it would get over-stretched during re-use which would damage it.

I understand this type of tightening is common with the aforementioned torque-to-yield bolts. I hope that's correct.

I also wonder what the effect of this tightening is on the holes the bolts are screwed into. What does that do to the threads inside the block?

1.8 LUW

And, in contrast, the three bolts attaching the engine mount bracket to the block call for tightening to 45 ft-lbs, plus another 45-60 degrees. But no mention is made of using new bolts. Conversely, three other bolts which fasten the motor mount to the motor mount bracket do call for replacing. I'm stumped. </rhetoric>

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Back on topic, I was otherwise pleased with the ACDELCO TCK338 kit. I used all the pieces, plus the aforementioned extra bolts that were needed. One note, the replacement timing belt tensioner did not have the pin hole in it for the locking pin, but I never needed that tool. I didn't use it removing the old tensioner, and it was easy enough (once I figured out how; see separate post) to slip the belt over the tensioner wheel with one hand while I rotated the tensioner with the other. So no need to lock the tensioner during installation either.




1,129 Posts
In replacing the timing belt on the 1.8, perhaps the biggest stumbling block for me was getting the new belt on the tensioner. I fought that thing for quite a while trying to slip it over the wheel. I even tried to slip it partially off the crank gear to provide more slack at the tensioner, but to no avail.

I called my wife and daughter out, and had them helping me up top while I was working from below by the crank. We fiddled with it for quite a while. Finally, in frustration, I over-torqued the allen wrench and, voila, I got another 20 or 30 degrees rotation out of the tensioner, enough to easily slip the belt in place. Needless to say, I was greatly relieved.

I wasn't sure how I managed that, but I did check it on the old tensioner to verify how it works. Apparently, the tensioner has a 2-stage spring in it. The first spring allows about 30° of rotation, then it feels like you've hit the stop. But if you torque harder on it, you can get another 20-30 degrees of rotation, enough to finally get the belt around the pulley.

None of the guides I was using mentioned that (Haynes hardcopy, Chilton on-line).

Knowing that would have saved me close to an hour. Hopefully, this helps someone else avoid this migraine.

To turn the tensioner, I used a socket handle and 6mm allen socket. The fit seemed a little loose in the tensioners, both the old one and the new, yet a ¼" allen wrench was too big to insert. The only choice was the 6mm, but a tighter fit would have been preferred (to give more feel).

I was able to remove the belt from the old tensioner without using the locking tool (EN-6333 above). I was surprised the new tensioner lacked the hole for the locking tool ! But again, it was not needed during the installation.

Similarly, the tool kit includes a locking pin (EN-6349) for the drive belt tensioner, but it was not needed, either.

So neither of the tensioner locking tools were really needed. But knowledge that the timing belt tensioner had a 2-stage spring was critical.



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On the 1.8, the other tricky part was installing the cam locking tool. It is two pieces which must be slid in between the two cam gears. Extra hands are needed. Someone has to be slightly rocking the crank while the other is up top holding the two pieces against the two gears while trying to line them up with each other. You gotta hold your tongue just right.

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Book time on this job is about 2 hours. I probably have 6 times that. I was taking my time, taking lots of pics, reading and re-reading the manuals, and making sure I was following the Mechanocratic oath: "First, don't break anything."

But with a couple more go-rounds, I could maybe get it down to 2 hours :)

As for the $22 tool kit, below are some high-ball prices I culled form Google for the genuine Kent Moore pieces. They make Snap-On look very affordable! That said, the actual KM tools can be had for less, but are still expensive. The $22 no-name brand stuff was more than up to the task.

KM-6340 cam locking tool

KM-6625 flywheel/crank locking tool

KM-6349 drive belt tensioner locking tool <-- didn't use

KM-6333 timing belt tensioner locking tool <-- didn't use

KM-45059 angle meter <-- used mechanical version instead

As mentioned earlier, I didn't use either of the locking pins - neither of the tensioners really needed to be locked.

In lieu of the expensive electronic angle meter, I bought a 15 dollar mechanical unit at Autozone. It's not as easy to use, but I can afford it.

Gauge Meter Measuring instrument Tool Barometer

I will say, the angle meter is kind of tricky to use, and I probably didn't get very close on the numbers. IIRC, the procedure is to tighten the tensioner mounting bolt to 15 ft-lbs, then turn it another 120°, then turn it another 15°. My 120 was probably ±30 And it might have taken two pulls to get there rather than one continuous crank.

The 15° turn was probably within ±10° of spec, I hope.

Using the mechanical angle gauge requires some practice, and, despite me working at it, I still struggled with it. Also, there's not always a place for the hook on the back to rest against. The hook is supposed to hold the dial face steady while you rotate the wrench and corresponding needle on the face of the dial.

Anyway, this torque-to-yield stuff is out of my area of expertise, and I try to respect the engineering behind it, but my internal BS detector keeps me wondering how critical those angles are.

Nevertheless, I try to go by the book. A lot less stuff gets broken that way.

Overall, I have less than 40 bucks in these tools. Add another 25 for the reverse torx socket set I recently purchased. So despite some daunting numbers for the Kent-Moore stuff, the actual cost is very acceptable. By doing this myself, I still saved lots of money despite needing special tools for it.

Never start a project unless you can get some new tools out of it :)


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On aligning the crank at top-dead-center, despite looking in the right place, the alignment marks were not obvious. I had to look closely to find them. But, once you see them, they're easy to use.

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This wasn't really necessary, but it's something I did just to satisfy my own concerns.
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I removed the #1 plug, inserted a wooden dowel, and turned the engine close to top-dead-center, then marked the dowel. Next I rocked the crank back and forth until I got the mark as high as possible, then put another mark below it even with the tape, knowing that was TDC.

About that time, I remembered there were marks on the crank pulley and realized I didn't really need this :)

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