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Do I need to install the capacitor if I am using a Relay to disable the DRLs and have the headlights kick on when the Parking lights are on?

Sorry for all the questions. I think I have everything else answered.
 

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Is there a way to make the fog lights come on when the regular low beams are on?
This harness mod actually has the low beams on all the time (if daytime running lights are enabled; don't know if there is a way to disable them).

Given that, if you changed your low-beam relay to one with two poles (One for headlights, the other for fogs), you could control your fog light kit from the headlights. I'd definitely use a separate set of wires to power the fog kit, though.

I am obviously coming in way late for this conversation. :blush:

Personally, I'd rather upgrade the existing wiring rather than use a workaround like this one, but this harness would certainly save a whole lot of time and effort compared to pulling and replacing the wires in the original harness.

I have higher priorities right now, but I will definitely keep this thread in mind for later down the road (there's a pun there, take it or leave it). It's a bit of a shame that I am getting this car just as I am leaving my current job: until yesterday, I had access to a calibrated photometer, and I could have taken readings both before and after the mod to see some hard numbers indicating real-world improvement in headlamp performance.

If I do this in the future, I will try to remember to take voltage readings before and after.

Just so that everyone understands, the capacitor is there to keep the low-beam relay from chattering because of the Daytime Running Lights (DRL) mode. From what I understand, this car uses a Pulse-Width Modulator (PWM) to reduce the operating voltage to the low-beams for DRL purposes. This is essentially a digital switch that turns the power to the lamp on and off rapidly so that the effective voltage felt at the lamp is reduced. The relay being added in uses the power coming from the controller to turn the low-beam on (providing power directly from the battery rather than from the controller itself). The PWM signal does the same thing to the relay: it switches it on and off, rapidly. This will damage the relay, as well as making an annoying chattering sound. The capacitor, when wired across the relay control pins (we won't go into the physics of why) will prevent the relay from switching on when the PWM is running.

I would recommend to anyone performing this mod that they examine the existing L headlight connector for heat damage. Installing this harness will not repair that damage, only (maybe) mask its effects for a while. If that connector is damaged, then you should either replace it, or hard-wire the mod harness directly into the car wiring using good mechanical splices or through soldering.

Here's the link to the ceramic ones, @XtremeRevolution posted earlier in the thread.

Dielectric grease would be a good idea, if you have any. It won't do any damage and will keep water out of the connections. Don't go overboard with it, though, because it will collect dust and dirt.
 

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Thanks to everyone who contributed to this write up. I upgraded the hardness in my Cruze and the lights are easily 2-3 times brighter.

One thing to note is that instead of cutting the wires for the capacitor, I simply used my auto wire strippers and stripped some insulation and soldered in the capacitor.

Also, this upgrade made me realize I may have adjusted my headlights too high. While I was not having other drivers flash their brights at me, aiming the lights back down some projected more light on the road rather than into the sky (especially with the high beams).
 

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Hey xtreme do you know the cheapest place to buy the wire kit? I believe amazon has them. I have a 13 Cruze with h13 dual bulbs and I’ve literally tried every led bulb and really nothing works very good.also I have no idea about resistors and where to buy locally. I work at a waste water plant maybe one of our electricians has one.we don’t have a radio shack here in wilmington anymore.
 

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You said on the drivers side connector it has black yellow and red but mine is blue and in your pic it’s blue.I don’t think it really matters I’m just trying to figure out where this capacitor goes.I don’t need to cut the wires do I I can just strip it back and solder it from the drivers and passengers yellow wires to the white wire that connects to the factory plug?is this correct?
 

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I installed our harness a while back when we first got our 2012 Cruze. No issues until now. Seems I have a short on the low beam drivers side. I replace the bulb thinking it was out and when the new bulb didn't last a week I thought something was up. Since I changed it out the first time without turning the lights on I didn't notice the short. This time it was dark and when I when to replace the bulb the light came on. So now I either fix the short or just take the harness out. It didn't make a difference on light brightness when I installed it but figured it was in so why bother taking it out.

Those that have noticed a difference great but I didn't see any so it was a waste of money for me. At least it wasn't very much. But sucks that I did throw away a good bulb. Live and learn I guess.
 

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This harness works great for running hids. It ensures battery voltage to both headlights at all times the lights are on,especial when drls are on.
I'm going to do this on my Colorado and was wanting to know the reason for using the capacitor. Is the capacitor used specifically for the cruze or should one be used on any headlight harness such as this one. Thanks.
 

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Wow. I just stumbled upon this old thread. Very interesting. I will be upgrading to this soon. That harness from Putco is pretty pricey. I imagine it wasn't that expensive back when this thread got started. I found one that's almost identical to that one for much less, made by Nokya, on amazon, and ordered it today. Part number is NOK9219 for just $24.99. It uses 16 gauge wiring so not sure if it's lighter gauge than the Putco as I can't find any specs on it. I've also ordered some Phillips xtreme vision bulbs. Still need to procure a capacitor. I was also wondering if there is a way to retain the proper function of the DRL's by possibly utilizing an additional relay to keep it isolated from this harness when the actual headlights are not needed. Any idea's on that? After reading this thread today and researching bulbs and harnesses my head is spinning. I imagine this set up can generate more heat from the bulbs. Any signs of any discoloration to the headlight lenses after long term use?
 

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Just received harness today from Amazon. It is the Nokya brand and it is indeed 16 gauge wire. Looks identical to the Putco brand with the exception of the ugly yellow conduit. Nokya conduit is black. The two red battery leads are labeled as fusible link. All for $24.99. Got to believe their made at the same place. The putco website states that theirs is only 16 gauge as well under the details tab. Just wanted to pass this info along for anyone interested in this mod in the future. I hope to get it installed this weekend along with new Phillips X-treme vision 9008 xvs2 bulbs.

Rich.
 
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