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Alright. I finally got around to installing the harness. I followed this thread and ran into 0 problems. I am most excited how I made the install look factory. I found the best place to install the relays. (Turn your screen right 90 degrees..sorry) IMG_0585.jpg Use the supplied metal bracket and use the hole near the driver side clip that holds the hood prop. I made it look as factory as I could. Next, loosen the screws/clips in the front plastics. You just want this loose enough to pry up to push the wires into. So fresh so clean. IMG_0584.jpg Even though it's yellow, you can barely see it. It's like the harness was made just for the Cruze. Be sure to tape off the pax side socket. IMG_0583.jpg
The light is amazing and I am glad I went this route. IMG_0586.jpg Thank You Sciphi and XtremeRevolution. IMG_0587.jpg
 
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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Alright. I finally got around to installing the harness. I followed this thread and ran into 0 problems. I am most excited how I made the install look factory. I found the best place to install the relays. (Turn your screen right 90 degrees..sorry) View attachment 4286 Use the supplied metal bracket and use the hole near the driver side clip that holds the hood prop. I made it look as factory as I could. Next, loosen the screws/clips in the front plastics. You just want this loose enough to pry up to push the wires into. So fresh so clean. View attachment 4287 Even though it's yellow, you can barely see it. It's like the harness was made just for the Cruze. Be sure to tape off the pax side socket. View attachment 4288
The light is amazing and I am glad I went this route. View attachment 4289 Thank You Sciphi and XtremeRevolution. View attachment 4290
NICE! Did you also go with the Sylvania Xtravision bulbs?

I like where you routed your wiring. Looks clean. I will admit this yellow wiring jacket really stands out, lol. I may end up cutting up the zip ties and using some threaded tape to make it blend in more easily.

I have to say, these are easily just as bright if not brighter than 35W ghetto-fitted HID kits. I'm not even kidding. This keeps the light source equidistant from the socket so it maintains the factory light dispersion pattern instead of screwing it all up.

I have to admit that the high beams are deadly bright. I would hate to be on the receiving end of this high beam.

This modification is by far an absolute must for anyone with a Cruze, and the Sylvania XtraVisions are a perfect complement.
 

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Yea I ended up switching out my bulbs for the XtraVisions as well as the harness. The harness is easily routed under that plastics 'cover' and it ends up hiding it very well. Yea there is more of a definite cut-off of the lights and I couldn't be happier!
 
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Good work!

Did you get fuses and a capacitor in there? The low beam relay will be unhappy with the DRL if there's no capacitor.
 

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Yea I wired 2 inline fuses in and a capacitor. Everything runs as should...would there be a definite clicking sound if the DRLs were wreaking havoc on the relays?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Yea I wired 2 inline fuses in and a capacitor. Everything runs as should...would there be a definite clicking sound if the DRLs were wreaking havoc on the relays?
Yep. When I first tried it out, it sounded like there were bees in my engine bay and the lights wouldn't even turn on.
 

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I had thought maybe I lost the DRL functionality after the upgrade. While during my drive to work this morning my full headlights were on. Half way there there was enough light to kick the headlights off and DRLs came on. :eusa_clap: My buddy was impressed with the lights and he runs plug n play HID setups on multiple cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I had thought maybe I lost the DRL functionality after the upgrade. While during my drive to work this morning my full headlights were on. Half way there there was enough light to kick the headlights off and DRLs came on. :eusa_clap: My buddy was impressed with the lights and he runs plug n play HID setups on multiple cars.
Biggest reason for that is the plug n play HID kits don't account for the reflection/dispersion pattern of the factory halogens. They will produce a different pattern and will not actually give you better visibility. It will look brighter, but that's not what you need; you need to see farther. This image sums is up. Observe the distance from the source of the light to the socket. People don't seem to realize that if you move the source of the light, you throw off the reflector's calibration and your beam pattern will not be the same as it was with the halogens.

 

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I had thought maybe I lost the DRL functionality after the upgrade. While during my drive to work this morning my full headlights were on. Half way there there was enough light to kick the headlights off and DRLs came on. :eusa_clap: My buddy was impressed with the lights and he runs plug n play HID setups on multiple cars.
Success!

Keeping the DRL while making the headlights brighter is the win-win for this mod. By keeping the factory DRL functionality, it's the only lighting mod that's legal everywhere in North America.

While the lights are now putting out about half the lumens of a PNP HID kit, it's focused properly onto the road. If you've ever ducked down below the cutoff in front of the Cruze after doing this mod, the headlights are blindingly bright. The cutoff really does its job protecting oncoming drivers while allowing the low beams to throw enough light to drive safely at 55-60 mph on a 2-lane road.
 
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When I do this upgrade I plan on upgrading the bulbs to Philips Xtreme Vision bulbs. I believe these are the brightest clear glass halogen bulbs out there and combined with the wiring upgrade should really brighten up the road.
 

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When I do this upgrade I plan on upgrading the bulbs to Philips Xtreme Vision bulbs. I believe these are the brightest clear glass halogen bulbs out there and combined with the wiring upgrade should really brighten up the road.
Just be careful you're not killing expensive bulbs prematurely. The reason I went with a moderately-priced bulb is that I wanted to get some kind of lifespan out of the headlights. I'm coming up on 5 months with the Sylvania XtraVisions, and they're still working fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Just be careful you're not killing expensive bulbs prematurely. The reason I went with a moderately-priced bulb is that I wanted to get some kind of lifespan out of the headlights. I'm coming up on 5 months with the Sylvania XtraVisions, and they're still working fine.
I'd also recommend Sylvania XtraVisions. I suspect one reason GM used such small wiring is to increase the life of the bulbs. I don't expect these will last as long with the new harness now that they're getting full power, so having them widely available and relatively cheap is a good bonus.
 

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Discussion Starter #34

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Good write-up. Would i have to worry about this if i were to just buy a relay kit for my HID's?
This would technically be equivalent to a relay kit for HIDs if all you were doing is installing an H13 HID "kit" and needed to prevent flickering during DRL use. For the record, I highly recommend against those kits.

Do it the right way; either retrofit a proper projector or use this harness upgrade to improve your halogen bulb's output.
 

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This would technically be equivalent to a relay kit for HIDs if all you were doing is installing an H13 HID "kit" and needed to prevent flickering during DRL use. For the record, I highly recommend against those kits.

Do it the right way; either retrofit a proper projector or use this harness upgrade to improve your halogen bulb's output.
projectors of course
 

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Discussion Starter #38
projectors of course
Are you retrofitting a projector or buying a headlight assembly with a projector and separate high beam?

If you're retrofitting a projector such as the H1 Morimoto Mini from theretrofitsource.com, you'll need to use their H13 harness. I'd highly recommend that route. Ask them for a set of projectors from their discard pile, which are $70 on the pair including a shroud and for the most part are just older model stock.
 
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