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Stock bulbs are free as long as you didn't throw them out during the conversion.
Nice... well I suppose I could have phrased it better professor. I used stock bulb as a reference since I didn't know what brand the stock bulbs are (probably a moot point since it could vary).

Besides I wasn't going to upgrade the bulbs also post harness upgrade right of way... figured I'd burn out the stock bulbs 1st since... well why the heck not? What good is it to keep a pair of working bulbs laying around when you can suck the life out of them... have enough crap in the garage as it is.
 

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Only time will tell as Sciphi was one of the first to do this mod. His was a custom made harness not the one that was bought. Obviously it will matter on how much you drive as well. I maybe only drive 8000 miles a year so results will also vary in that regard.
I was the first to do this mod, and made my own harness. Xtreme did a great job of finding a reasonably-priced harness that works well, and writing it up to make it more accessible to more folks.

My driver's side XtraVision burned out after about 5 months and ~9000 miles of use. I drive a lot for work, so the miles pile on quickly. The XV bulb in the passenger side is doing fine. I'll update when it finally goes.

The great thing about the harness is that it works just as well with the OEM bulbs as the high-priced "performance" bulbs. Basically, it'll turn a regular bulb into a "high-performance" bulb through the magic of physics. So, one can walk into a parts store, grab a cheap bulb off the shelf, and expect amazing results with it plugged into the harness. The regular bulb should last longer while providing the same results as a very expensive bulb. There are many reasons for this, including that the expensive "high-performance" bulbs are built for lots of light instead of lots of life. So, a regular bulb with average light output (without a harness) and average life can be expected to do the same, while living longer.

FWIW, I can't tell a difference between my "regular" replacement and the still-living XtraVision. The regular bulb is in fact better in some ways, such as lighting to the sides.

With bulb life, yes, the low beams are on at all times. Don't forget, this car has a variable-output alternator. Most of the time when the car is driving in the daytime the headlights will be getting the 12.5 volts needed to run the car. At night, the car tells the alternator to put out 14 volts to ensure proper voltage to run the headlights and other exterior lights. Bulb life has to do with voltage put through the bulb, among other things. Running at 12.5 volts during the day will make the bulb live longer than if it were running at 14 volts all the time.

Moral: Try the harness on the OEM bulbs first. Then, if not satisfied, get plain-Jane replacement bulbs.
 

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I was the first to do this mod, and made my own harness. Xtreme did a great job of finding a reasonably-priced harness that works well, and writing it up to make it more accessible to more folks.

My driver's side XtraVision burned out after about 5 months and ~9000 miles of use. I drive a lot for work, so the miles pile on quickly. The XV bulb in the passenger side is doing fine. I'll update when it finally goes.

The great thing about the harness is that it works just as well with the OEM bulbs as the high-priced "performance" bulbs. Basically, it'll turn a regular bulb into a "high-performance" bulb through the magic of physics. So, one can walk into a parts store, grab a cheap bulb off the shelf, and expect amazing results with it plugged into the harness. The regular bulb should last longer while providing the same results as a very expensive bulb. There are many reasons for this, including that the expensive "high-performance" bulbs are built for lots of light instead of lots of life. So, a regular bulb with average light output (without a harness) and average life can be expected to do the same, while living longer.

FWIW, I can't tell a difference between my "regular" replacement and the still-living XtraVision. The regular bulb is in fact better in some ways, such as lighting to the sides.

With bulb life, yes, the low beams are on at all times. Don't forget, this car has a variable-output alternator. Most of the time when the car is driving in the daytime the headlights will be getting the 12.5 volts needed to run the car. At night, the car tells the alternator to put out 14 volts to ensure proper voltage to run the headlights and other exterior lights. Bulb life has to do with voltage put through the bulb, among other things. Running at 12.5 volts during the day will make the bulb live longer than if it were running at 14 volts all the time.

Moral: Try the harness on the OEM bulbs first. Then, if not satisfied, get plain-Jane replacement bulbs.
Thank you... for your efforts, testing, insight & help! :10:
 

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Glad to help! And, glad to share insights learned along the way! "I see farther because I stand on the shoulders of giants".
 

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Couldn't you use a solid state relay for the low beams in order to keep the DRLs and add to the life of the bulbs without turning them off all the time?

Edit: Actually after more review that relay from them needa a negative switch signal, so would require make a polarity switcher and a little some re pinning for the relay.
 

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Well, I have all of the pieces, parts & actually had the time to do this mod, but now it will have to wait. I was going to run the harness across the top of the bumper like 4piecekit did, but now I have to wait until the dealership replaces my bumper. The pax side of bumper just under the headlight housing was separating... I thought someone backed up onto it or it was just falling off. He confirmed there was no damage anywhere to suggest a hit so they are ordering me a new bumper because the clips just under the headlight are broken. So now I have to de-install & re-install modified RS grille (mask, paint, measure, drill, etc.) as well as the harness upgrade. I also have some new fog light surround bezels for the existing ones, but I am going to see if I can talk the dealership into doing it for me since they will have to remove the existing fogs to move them onto the replacement bumper. This will at least cut down on my time spent re-installing the RS grille & then upgrading the headlight harness.
 

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I officially got 6 months from the Sylvania XtraVisions running full-time. The passenger side blew yesterday, and I threw in an OEM bulb (Sylvania, BTW) I'd kept for just this eventuality. Another Philips H13 was picked up today. I'm hoping the Philips bulbs last longer than 6 months. Remind me to swear off anything Sylvania-branded in the future. The Philips bulb had a much more even light than the OEM Sylvania. I've gotten disappointed by Sylvania too many times now.
 

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My Harness Upgrade Results

I went ahead and did the headlight harness upgrade last night... won't bore you with too many details. Install was as straight forward as could be... I prepped the harness two nights ago so all of the soldering was done prior to install. In the next post the 1st set of 5 lighted pics are pre-harness & the last 5 pics are with the upgrade... as usual night shots of bright lights are never good. Observation: not much change, but in my opinion that is becuase of the stock bulbs & I don't intend to replace them until they burn out. Let's see how long they last knowing they are in fact at their peak output with the upgrade.
 

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I went ahead and did the headlight harness upgrade last night... won't bore you with too many details. Install was as straight forward as could be... I prepped the harness two nights ago so all of the soldering was done prior to install. In the next post the 1st set of 5 lighted pics are pre-harness & the last 5 pics are with the upgrade... as usual night shots of bright lights are never good. Observation: not much change, but in my opinion that is becuase of the stock bulbs & I don't intend to replace them until they burn out. Let's see how long they last knowing they are in fact at their peak output with the upgrade.
Continued...
 

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In the high beam pic, the light looks whiter on the modded harness when compared to stock.
Sorry, I should have mentioned this. Actually that's the flash overlay you're seeing on the slightly brighter shots... didn't take any with the high beams on.

On another note... though the DRL are functioning I'm now wondering if I used too small a capacitor? This morning I'm hearing a slight bee buzzing & hum while driving.



Capacitor - as seen in the pic, non-polar electrolytic 50v



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Discussion Starter #92
If you're hearing a buzzing and the headlights aren't on, the cap might not be working correctly or you may have too small of a value. It says 50v, but how many microfarads? I can't see any images you posted at work.
 

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If you're hearing a buzzing and the headlights aren't on, the cap might not be working correctly or you may have too small of a value. It says 50v, but how many microfarads? I can't see any images you posted at work.
No... I've got FULL DRL function & the lights are on. I tested that & I think what you're asking is... it's a 1uf?



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No... I've got FULL DRL function & the lights are on. I tested that & I think what you're asking is... it's a 1uf?



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If it is indeed 1uf, that's too small. I'd go with a 100uf at least. 16V is fine.
 

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If it is indeed 1uf, that's too small. I'd go with a 100uf at least. 16V is fine.
Ok... guess I missed uF size along the way. I do recall the 16v that's why I figured the 50v was enough. Ok... I'll go back to the Shack & get the right size uF & minimum 16v. Thanks!



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I grabbed a 470uF polar axial I believe it is a 32v from Radio Shack and mine is working beautifully. I also ran my wire across behind the grill and the engine bay looks a lot cleaner but it just reaches the passenger side.
 

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Had to shut off the DRL... I'm hoping that is what caused this, but the DIC was going bonkers when I was going to another job site earlier. Speed reported was within 5 miles of the needle speedo, the miles to empty was reading --- & the MPG kept going from 0 – 99 on the freeway. Before I leave the office I'm going to put the lights back on the stock harness & hope the DIC is nominal.

NOTE: I wasn’t happy with the results of how the capacitor looked overall... I've got some ideas on making it look better so once I get a qualified size I'll be glad to pull the smaller one & return the car to the new harness.
 

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I've never had DIC problems. Were your regular analog gauges working okay?
 

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Yeah I didn't like how the capacitor was either. I snapped the ends off my first one and had to redo everything and had to add extra wire in doing so. In any case the second time around I braced each side of the capacitor with a small piece of a cut leather belt and taped it all nice and tight with electrical tape now it is all nice and sturdy.

Click to enlarge the picture.

 

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I've never had DIC problems. Were your regular analog gauges working okay?
Yes, though at one point at two different stop lights... the tach dropped out of nowhere to around 500RPM for a split second & I felt the car nudge forward for a second.
 
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