Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2012 Cruze. 2 days ago my upper radiator hose exploded. I changed the hose, and added coolant. I drove it to the grocery 1/2 a mile from my house. It started getting warm, then said it was over heated, then the temp went back down to normal. I was just driving it down the highway it says it was over heated then I had no oil pressure. I just changed the thermostat a month and a half ago. I usually take all my car issues to my dad, but he lives 100 miles away from me. What do I need to check? Replace? Keep a look out for? I just have no idea where to even start.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
302 Posts
Did you "burp" the coolant system? There's probably just an air pocket in there. After it's cooled down remove the coolant reservoir cap and start the car. Run the heat on full, this will help circulate the coolant faster, let it continue to run until it reaches normal operating temperature. The air pocket will get forced out through the open coolant tank. After the temperature gauge goes back down, like it normally does after reaching operating temperature, shut the car off and put the coolant cap back on. After it's completely cooled down, half a day later is sufficient, refill the coolant to the normal cold level marked on the reservoir. Good to go

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Would an air bubble cause it to lose oil pressure? I was getting off the freeway because it said engine overheated - turn off engine. As I was pulling off another message popped up and said low oil pressure, then it shut down.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
302 Posts
Would an air bubble cause it to lose oil pressure? I was getting off the freeway because it said engine overheated - turn off engine. As I was pulling off another message popped up and said low oil pressure, then it shut down.
No, not related. As the previous post states it's very possible it overheated to the point of blowing the head gasket. Check your oil and if it looks milky/frothy then it's been blown.

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
 

· The Nuclear Option
Joined
·
5,874 Posts
Depending on how badly the engine overheated when the radiator hose exploded conceivably, you could have a blown head gasket. What does your oil look like?
It is also possible to have a blown head gasket and not have mixing of the oil and coolant but still have a consumption of one or both fluids. If that is the case you would want to buy a block test to know for sure.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There is also another hose that broke. I don’t know what it is called but it comes out from the bottom of the coolant reservoir - “y”s off and part of it leads to the engine and the other leads to the firewall. It had oil before it “really” overheated and lost oil pressure. The oil looks burnt but not milky.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There is also another hose that broke. I don’t know what it is called but it comes out from the bottom of the coolant reservoir - “y”s off and part of it leads to the engine and the other leads to the firewall. It had oil before it “really” overheated and lost oil pressure. The oil looks burnt but not milky.
But also is there like a safety mode or default that it will into, because when I was getting off the freeway my car kind of shut down on its own. It’s cranks over, but will not start. All the pulleys turn, there is compression, it just will not start. The other hose that I have to replace the “y” in the middle is plastic. It’s the plastic parts on both sides that broke off. I just don’t know what I the actual hose is called to go get a new one.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Pictures would help as your explanation of the hoses is a bit lacking.

As for the cooling system, also check both of the temp sensors.
288793

the thin pink lines are the hoses. One goes to the coolant tank, the other goes into the engine. Then it “y”s into the firewall. The thick pink circle is the plastic y part that broke.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
View attachment 288793
the thin pink lines are the hoses. One goes to the coolant tank, the other goes into the engine. Then it “y”s into the firewall. The thick pink circle is the plastic y part that broke.
Before my engine stopped it said it was overheating (of course) and that it lost oil pressure. The codes it’s throwing are p0117, p00B7, and p0327.
 

· Administrator
2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
Joined
·
14,165 Posts
Potential causes of the P0117 code include:

Bad ECT sensor
Short to ground on ECT signal circuit
Faulty or damaged connectors Wiring harness damaged
Loose terminals at ECT or PCM
POSSIBLY an overheated engine
Bad PCM
Read more at: P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit Low Input

Causes for this engine code, P0117, may include:

Low coolant
Stuck thermostat
Defective ECT sensor
Faulty radiator coolant temperature sensor
Shorted or open circuits or connectors
Bad PCM or
PCM programming error
Read more at: P00B7 Engine Coolant Flow Low/Performance

Potential causes for a P0327 DTC include (but are not limited to):

The knock sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced
There is a wiring open/short/fault in the knock sensor circuit
The PCM/ECM has failed
Read more at: OBD-II Trouble Code: P0327 Knock Sensor Circuit Low Input (Bank 1)

Are you talking about #9 in the diagram? Is this a 1.4? if so then:

Hose, Heater
HOSE,HTR OTLT
CLAMP-CLIP-CONNECTOR-HOSE, Heater. For: PL69 1.4 (LUV) (2013 - 2014). Required: 01
CLAMP-CLIP-CONNECTOR-HOSE, Heater. For: PL69 1.4-9(LUJ) (2011
Part Number: 95079921
Supersession(s): 13251465

 

· Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have an update with my car, I replaced both broken hoses. Finally got to change my oil, when i drained it it looked normal no clumps. When I changed the filter it was a mess. I will attach a picture. But my (unknowledgeable opinion) is since my car over heated, the oil cooler housing got hot and melted the filter and oil into what it was. And since it was a huge “thing” that clogged oil flow which would possibly cause the low oil pressure. I can’t see if my car will start now since I have a dead battery. But fingers crossed this is the end of my troubles.
289057
 

· Registered
Joined
·
302 Posts
I have an update with my car, I replaced both broken hoses. Finally got to change my oil, when i drained it it looked normal no clumps. When I changed the filter it was a mess. I will attach a picture. But my (unknowledgeable opinion) is since my car over heated, the oil cooler housing got hot and melted the filter and oil into what it was. And since it was a huge “thing” that clogged oil flow which would possibly cause the low oil pressure. I can’t see if my car will start now since I have a dead battery. But fingers crossed this is the end of my troubles. View attachment 289057
Yikes. They would explain the loss of oil pressure, just too solid to pass through it. Good find

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
In your opinion...in theory should it start now? My bf took my battery to charge it, it was right around 8v. I don’t know what the knock sensor code means, but since the other 2 codes were “overheating related” and now that oil flow should be restored, could that solve my issues? My bf keeps saying something about bearings and other things could have happened, I had no signs of a cracked head, or a blown head gasket, and when it stopped there was no noises, also when I’d try to start it again it cranked like it wanted to start, just didn’t turn over.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
302 Posts
In your opinion...in theory should it start now? My bf took my battery to charge it, it was right around 8v. I don’t know what the knock sensor code means, but since the other 2 codes were “overheating related” and now that oil flow should be restored, could that solve my issues? My bf keeps saying something about bearings and other things could have happened, I had no signs of a cracked head, or a blown head gasket, and when it stopped there was no noises, also when I’d try to start it again it cranked like it wanted to start, just didn’t turn over.
Yes, I would think it should start. The knock sensor code can show up from a problem with the coolant system. Since you stated that there were no signs of overheating damage then think it's safe to assume that after the battery charge you should be squared away. I could be mistaken and I'm sure that there will be others that will reply to you as well. I feel comfortable saying it's good to go now.

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top