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Patience Of Job
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well it seems I am back in another situation with my Cruze that I do not know what else to do, this is referenced to my latest post here ( http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-1-4l-turbo/149626-cruze-oil-leak.html ); after taking it into the dealer 19th of last month, they said it was only a lose throttle body & a valve stuck opened it was all cleaned & off I go the car seemed to do good for awhile, but shortly after coming home it throws a code ( P1071 Air flow issue ); well I just ignore it out of frustration & giving it it finally went off; yay ( well I thought!!! ); soo fast forward til 3rd - I noticed my car stopped responding when I pushed the gas & then all at once it kicks up to 4,000RPM & jerks hard - & then it didn't do it anymore so I ignored it hoping it was just a hiccup & call it a day.

Well each day it seem to get worse & now today the engine light came back on & when you push the gas it just go jerking & making a rattling sound & during the rattling sound it lets out some huge blue smoke puffs - the car looses power & goes to about 1,200RPMs & me pushing the gas to try make the car move, but what worries me the most is the rattling the car is making during the delay in response to pushing the gas - The error code for this is ( P1072 O2 Sensor bank 1 running too rich );

Also oil wet spots are on the splash guard underneath the passenger side front end - this car is a 2011 Chevy Cruze with only 62,000+ miles on it & I cannot seem to keep it together it falling a part literally.

NOTE: its used a quart of oil in 15days - so that isn't normal right?

Any advise?
 

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This does not sound normal, some issue likely needs to be addressed in order to remedy the problems you're experiencing.
 

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NOTE: its used a quart of oil in 15days - so that isn't normal right?
Under normal driving patterns, no.

I'm not sure what it is. Maybe turbo. I think some of the early years had cracked pistons. If you still have power train warranty, it's time to get it to a dealer. Maybe a different one this time.
 

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Patience Of Job
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Guys let me ask this question this is my daily grinder - do you recommend further driving or let them tow it out of my drive way monday morning?
 

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No. That amount of oil consumption is indicative of a problem. Blue smoke is burning oil.

Codes comming up are raising flags.

It does not sound as though your vehicle is being repaired properly. Has this been at an authorized Chevrolet dealer?
 

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Patience Of Job
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Of course, I do not let anyone do anything to my car either myself. Even down to oil changes are done at a GM certified shop.
 

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Guys let me ask this question this is my daily grinder - do you recommend further driving or let them tow it out of my drive way monday morning?
It's a matter of risk tolerance.

I'd be tempted to tow - but on the other hand I'd be tempted to bring the oil up to level and carefully drive it (not on the interstate) to the nearest Chevrolet dealer.
 

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Patience Of Job
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is starting to be frustrating to me really. Ever since i have owned this car its nothing but trouble!
 

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Sadly for you it certainly feels that way.

But for whatever the reason others are having a different experience with their cruzes. As I recall, you're the original owner.
 

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Patience Of Job
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yup, the only owner purchased the car in 2011 brand new
 

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Patience Of Job
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Also want to note, that it does run good at times as well. It can run smooth for awhile then it goes back to jerking & then smooth & jerking & blue smoke. So could this be a PCV valve?
 

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You have more problems than just the PCV valve. A failed PCV doesn't behave this way.
 

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Also want to note, that it does run good at times as well. It can run smooth for awhile then it goes back to jerking & then smooth & jerking & blue smoke.
My 2011 ECO 6MT acted like yours. Would run ok, lose power, blow blue smoke. It would clear up and repeat. Used/burned lots of oil. Had my car towed to dealer. First the dealer advised blown turbo. Then determined two pistons cracked. Car was at dealer for 2 weeks. So - turbo, all 4 pistons and cylinder head replaced. When I picked up the car it seemed to run fine. Really did not want to keep the car with a rebuilt engine, so traded for my current car.
 

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I had very similar issues & had 2 separate times of cracked pistons. What got the dealer's attention is that I personally inspected the compression & confirmed low compression in cylinder #1 & then #3 the 2nd time. This really got their attention & they tore down my engine both times. First time was a rebuild repair. 4k miles later I had the exact same symptoms & they tore it down again, but since it was a return, they gave me a whole new engine. I suggest you get your compression inspected. Should be 200 psi in all 4. Both times the cracked piston cylinder was 100 psi.
 

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Patience Of Job
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well got some updates here, this morning I got up & went & checked my oil level & it didn't even read on the dip stick. Just to update I put a quart of oil in the morning before & now I don't know how low it is! & there isn't any oil underneath the car or no sign of a huge oil leak under the hood, so where could this much oil go in under 24/hrs?

So I don't plan on driving it to the dealer I am gonna arrange for it to be picked up - also should I top the oil level off before hand?

Also my warranty is good for another couple months so I am within a good window here.
 

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My oil was barely on the dipstick too & I topped it off before driving it to the dealership. My dealership was only a couple miles away, but you should be able to drive it there. When mine took a crap, I was able to drive it 50 more miles before I came home to top it off. Rapid oil loss with no visible leak indicates you are burning it. Oil is getting past your rings into the combustion chamber...cracked pistons. You better hope you have scoring in the cylinder walls, otherwise they'll just replace the cracked piston/s...at least that's what they did for me.
 

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Also want to note, that it does run good at times as well. It can run smooth for awhile then it goes back to jerking & then smooth & jerking & blue smoke. So could this be a PCV valve?
That blows my mind that the pistons could be cracked and it runs good at times.
 

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Patience Of Job
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It will run properly for awhile but like when I really noticed it I passed a car & then let out off the gas & then went to push it back down & then it start bucking up & then RPMs dropped & start hearing the rattling & then blue cloud of smoke came out the back covering the other car behind me. It was awful I had to just let it do whatever it did & then just push the gas slightly & then it jerks really hard & then the RPMs jump & off I go again & the it just repeats all the time.

But what really blows my mind - is I have had nothing but issues w/ this engine - the turbo has been replaced 3 times, the PCV valve once, all in a matter of 62,000+ miles which is crazy!! But oh well hopefully they will put a new engine or rebuild this one but I am kinda shy about having a rebuild engine they are never the same ( my opinion );
 

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It will run properly for awhile but like when I really noticed it I passed a car & then let out off the gas & then went to push it back down & then it start bucking up & then RPMs dropped & start hearing the rattling & then blue cloud of smoke came out the back covering the other car behind me. It was awful I had to just let it do whatever it did & then just push the gas slightly & then it jerks really hard & then the RPMs jump & off I go again & the it just repeats all the time.

But what really blows my mind - is I have had nothing but issues w/ this engine - the turbo has been replaced 3 times, the PCV valve once, all in a matter of 62,000+ miles which is crazy!! But oh well hopefully they will put a new engine or rebuild this one but I am kinda shy about having a rebuild engine they are never the same ( my opinion );
Not just your opinion, mine too. I bought a Cobalt brand new. It was excellent. It was the absolutely perfect in every way. Until 22,689 miles. After I T-boned someone and the front of my Cobalt was torn off by someone running a red light in front of me, the entire front of my car was disassembled by the local Chevy dealer.

I noticed immediately that the shifter did not feel as it did before. Can't even describe how. But as I explain in the thread posted below, I ended up with nothing but problems afterward. It was constantly in and out of the shop for some reason or another. Got rid of it before the 100K was up.

Post #27
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/9-ge...m/150074-what-worst-car-you-ever-owned-3.html
 
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