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I had very similar issues & had 2 separate times of cracked pistons. What got the dealer's attention is that I personally inspected the compression & confirmed low compression in cylinder #1 & then #3 the 2nd time. This really got their attention & they tore down my engine both times. First time was a rebuild repair. 4k miles later I had the exact same symptoms & they tore it down again, but since it was a return, they gave me a whole new engine. I suggest you get your compression inspected. Should be 200 psi in all 4. Both times the cracked piston cylinder was 100 psi.
 

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My oil was barely on the dipstick too & I topped it off before driving it to the dealership. My dealership was only a couple miles away, but you should be able to drive it there. When mine took a crap, I was able to drive it 50 more miles before I came home to top it off. Rapid oil loss with no visible leak indicates you are burning it. Oil is getting past your rings into the combustion chamber...cracked pistons. You better hope you have scoring in the cylinder walls, otherwise they'll just replace the cracked piston/s...at least that's what they did for me.
 

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I'd bet money you have at least 1 cracked piston & I'm not a betting man. My car did the exact same thing... would run totally fine for a while & then run terribly with puffs of blue smoke & rattling. I don't know exactly why, but mine had misfire code too, so I'm guessing when too much oil got through the rings, the misfire would cause all those poor symptoms. Combined with low compression, you're basically driving on 3 cylinders which will cause the loss of power & speed. Good news is, you'll be in a loaner for 8+ days with free XM radio :)
 

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Where are you from? Out of curiosity, you should at least check your spark plugs and while you're at it your compression. Spark plugs are likely coated in oil if PCV valve is puking oil back into your intake. And having spark plugs out would be a good time to check compression. You can get a cheap engine compression kit at Harbor Freight. Surely you could find someone to check those things for you if you can't yourself. Good compression (200 psi) = good pistons and peace of mind that maybe all it was was a bad PCV valve.
 

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What prompted me to do a compression check was I got a misfire check engine code, so I replaced the spark plugs, cleared the code & then the next time I drove it I got a misfire in the same cylinder. However, this time it also burned through a quart of oil in 50 miles, would run rough, hard start, then run fine, then puffs of smoke & studer, etc. Sure enough it had 100 psi in cylinder #1 while the rest had 200 psi. 8 days later I had a new piston & cylinder head. They also cleaned out the entire intercooler system from oil. A compression check literally takes 15 minutes on this car...a heck of a lot fast than replacing a turbo as the first option.
 

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When I had my issues I came in with data, confidence & reference numbers all written down. They took my concerns seriously & I got excellent service. Check engine light should give them a clue as to what the issue is. Ask them what the codes are. Mine was a misfire in the cylinder with verified low compression which backed up my concern. I also referenced the below #PIP5036 and that got their attention as well.

#PIP5036: Possible Oil Consumption With Cracked Piston Or Pistons - (Jun 25, 2012)
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-1...lly-admitting-there-problem-1-4l-pistons.html
 

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This thread has convinced me that this Forum is a bad place to get advice. Too many experts who get it wrong too often. Poor joshuab gets told it is definitely a cracked piston or a sensor or the turbo but all along, he is giving us the classic signs of a messed up PCV system, which is a bit more complicated on a turbo charged engine than a normally aspirated engine. Then the foolishness starts about max "whatever" with the turbo at some low rpm for the automatic and some slightly different max "whatever" for the turbo with a manual shift setup. Why are we talking about max anything at 1850 rpm on a gasoline engine. Maybe on a big diesel. Your turbocharger starts to "spool up" (as pointed out by obermd) at probably 1850 rpm and then at some higher rpm (5000 maybe?) it is spinning at somewhere between 90,000 and 150,000 and giving max boost. joshuab - it is obvious you have Bad Karma and you need to get right with it. Volunteer at a Food Pantry or a Soup Kitchen or something like that and your karma will change to the positive. I am leaving this forum (I will figure out how to delete my account after I finish this post) and the people I will miss the least are NickD with his useless drivel about the past and XtremeRevolution with his dangerous posts about using any oil in your Cruzes that don't have the dexos certification. What's the big deal about this - just use dexos oil!! And oh, by the way, the main reason I am leaving this forum is that I don't have a Cruze anymore. Adios from the Eastern Panhandle of Tennessee.
Too bad this fella didn't stick around to see that it actually was cracked pistons...

Glad to see your car is back in action. Let's hope you don't have round two on cracked pistons like me!
 

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Were yours the same ones that were replaced, or others that were original failed later on down the line?
First time they replaced #1 cylinder piston, rings and rod bearing due to scoring along with a 2nd design cylinder head. 7k miles later piston #3 cracked and they replaced the entire engine assembly due to cylinder wall scoring. I have just over 6k miles on the new engine and still going strong!
 

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What signs should I look for **IF** it should start again did yours just start duplicating the same issues as it did prior to your first time? Fingers are crossed this doesn't happen again because I doubt my patience's would handle anything further w/ this car! LOL - also yes IndyDiesel is right give me a loyalty badge :grin:
Yeah, same issues. I was driving 70 mph on the highway with the cruise set and all of a sudden it started slowing down (losing power) and then started stuttering and blowing smoke. No CEL that time. I got it home and checked the compression. This time #3 had 100 PSI. You should be fine though since all 4 were replaced.
 
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