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Checked my paper work, it seems they changed the cover & drove it 7 miles w/o issue. Is this something that could just blow that quickly again?
Sure....the PCV diaphram fracture gives no warning.....it just, uh, fractures........some, so far, are doing just fine (probably the majority).

Just was your turn.

Rob
 

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Unfortunately for me huh Robby, so I think its best to tow it or do you think it will make it & get some oil to go w/ me? What do you suggest Robby?
How far (miles) is the shop?

Less than 15.....top off the oil and run for it.
More than that.....call the dealer, let them arrange the tow.....it is their fowl up.....you shouldn't have to do more than call.

Odds are as stated above.....they pinched or rolled the gasket.....it is a 'O' ring type that sits in a channel of the cover.....very easy to dislodge during assembly.

Sounds like the dealer tried to do right by you though......sadly, we all blow it from time to time.....you know, the 'Good Intentions' thing.

Rob
 

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In this case I think a tow is the better option.......as it is, there likely is quite a mess to clean up and, although unlikely, the potential for a oil fire needs to be considered.

Good luck!
Rob
 

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I stopped by the dealer I often hang out at Saturday.

They had a red 2011 eco manual on the hoist.....two weeks of the five year remaining, getting a nice new engine.
Same as the OP.....going through oil like a cruise ship, smoking....yada yada.

#3 was 0 compression and there was a good size chunk of piston crown MIA.
The tech. had drained over two quarts of oil out of the intercooler and evidently this had gone on for a bit because the charge pipes were getting soft......whatta mess.

Seems the car had been at another dealer with the consumption complaint and CEL.
They replaced the manifold and the cam cover (why they chose not to look further we'll never know).
Naturally, once the owner took it out on the highway a week later it inhaled all that oil and fell on its face......smoking.....cel.....replay.

Nursed it over to the current dealer where a compression test was performed (first)......#3 reads '0'.
Pulled the head and found a good sized chunk of piston MIA.....intercooler had over two quarts of oil accumulated.....and this had been going on long enough where the charge pipes were getting soft.

So, the new engine gets plugged in tomorrow.....new clutch too since the labor is free.

I hope the OP finds someone that looks deeper......this sounds awful similar.

Rob
 

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Update : My car is still at the dealership when I updated back on the 24th it seemed it was my intake manifold, so they still have & mentioned they are taking it through a set of test to be performed to make sure all is good before handing my car back.

But I have a question for you tech guy/gals, would the intake manifold be the issue of losing 2 quarts of oil in under 40/miles? I don't hardly see that, you would think during this time that if over 2/quarts of oil passes through the intake its gotta be something else causing this? Please correct me if I am wrong because I am surely 90% wrong but I have gained alot of knowledge from here!


I will keep everyone post on updates as they become available, I do know now it will be monday before my next update here. To be continued........
Your thoughts are spot on......nothing in the intake check valve would cause oil consumption at that rate.

One quart, a hundred miles.....maybe......thats a stretch, but maybe......2qts. in 40??????no way.

Rob
 

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Update : Not sure what happened this thread half the posts are gone?, Anyways, well I went picked up my car today - it was ok for the first 4 to 5 miles, then I begin to get a mixture of "blue" & "white" smoke it was just random really. The car isn't using as much oil now haven't let it drain down good enough to check but I will later as it cools down or in the morning for a good reading. But the car is still letting out rattles & pining sounds under load, & this time it did something different while going up hill - the check engine light came on & the service stabli bar or something came on blinking for a few then went off, well after another 8 to 10 miles the check engine light started blinking & then went off & that was it thus far nothing else has happened.

The report shows there was a drain valve missing in the intake manifold which prompted them to replace the whole manifold & drove it 150miles Operation OK. The car is still giving the same symptoms minus the oil ( won't really tell til it cools & I check it. ); so I am not sure if there tech is incompetent or ignoring the issue at hand.

I am at a loss here & just about had all I can take w/ this car.
Don't get mad at the car......get upset with the dealer.

Your description (now) indicates they failed to remove the intercooler (air charge cooler) and drain the accumulated oil out of it.
As soon as you started to get into a deeper throttle position, the engine started to vacuum the accumulated oil into the throttle from the intercooler.......smoke and whatever a engine ingesting oil is the result.......

If I am correct, the problem will recur every time there is a high vacuum (pressure) situation.

The part in the manifold is a check valve and, yes, manifold replacement is required.....however.... the manual instructs the repairman to drain the accumulated oil from the intercooler PRIOR to returning the car to service as part of a successful repair.

Sucks.................for you......sorry you have to jump through these hoops.

Rob
 

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Update : Well after getting GM into the mix of this situation; I get a call from my case worker at GM, & it seems they have refused to accept my car back for further repairs. However I was gone at the time of the message I call the dealership w/ my cell to make appointment to get it back in there for further repairs, well I get to talk to the service manager who was very rude to me & just said take it back to the original dealer & don't bring it back there the only thing he didn't do is tell me the F off, which that might have been more respectful then the ear full I got from them

Now regarding the car Robby, well the smoking has nearly quit. However it still comes out randomly & the ratting / pinging seems to have slowed down - however the power loss is still there - The rattle or pinging whichever it decides to do at the time is still there. Now I am for sure getting a leak at the throttle body onto the transmission case, & there is a small leak somewhere under the car which is oil because when I moved my car out of the driveway this morning there is a small puddle about side of a quarter there. & the car has only consumed a quart of oil in 38/miles today.

Question ). If the car had to get the accumulated oil out of the intercooler wouldn't that have been all burned out during the 150 miles they test drove my car on?

So I have now contacted another dealership that is gonna take my car in for inspection & repair this week coming; so what do you think w/ these issues here that have slowed down - should I still get a compression check? Do you think this is still possible cracked pistons?
First, your car should consume no measurable oil.....period...........in less than 1000 miles for a badly worn engine, which I doubt applies to you.

Tell the new dealer, as well as provide all paperwork related to this event, that dealer #1, has thrown his arms up and said find another dealer.

Let them know the car is consuming vast quantities of oil, is often smoking, and is leaking oil from the throttle body area and it is accumulating under the car.......also let them know the dealer had the car almost three weeks and this is the condition it was returned in.

Avoid any 'Woe is me stories.....save those for church.

Just the facts and then let them have at it.....make certain you leave them EVERY method available to reach you......nothing aggravates a repair shop more than a customer that gives numbers to nowhere.

If your reporting has been honest, you have done a good job of not pestering the last dealer.......give this new dealer the same treatment and remember that this is a new problem to them and they aren't responsible for the jacking you have been going through.

Keep in touch,

Rob
 

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Actually, the majority of dealers are very good.....unfortunately, the few bad ones really do a great job of wrecking the overall view of dealers in general.

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Update : Well the dealership called me & said they found the issue & it seems I have another blown turbo & its being replaced & should get my car back tomorrow. But what is alarming to me is that the turbo was replaced I want to say a year ago, I'd have to go through my service records to find exact date, but I know it hasn't been to long ago.

So this makes me wonder what is making it go through turbo this quickly? Suggestions?
It is possible that the first turbo failure was a result of a restricted oil feed line (since redesigned)......if this was the case, it is what killed your first and now the second turbo.

Latest instructions call for oil line replacement in conjunction with the turbo.

The oil feed line now has a heat wrap shielding the line as it passes near the turbo to prevent the oil from 'coking' in the line and restricting flow.

Best guess without reading your previous RO.

Rob
 

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Kind of a 'what came first, the chicken or the egg' type question.

Yes, a turbo failure can be a cause or a result of a different failure.
It can also be the cause OF a secondary failure.

First, a compression test should be taken......this 'generally' tells if the engine is mechanically sound......I say generally because a compression test only proves the compression rings and their lands (grooves) are sealing well enough to support combustion, however, the oil control rings can be blown apart and compression can be acceptable.......so this is not a 'end all' test.
If compression is good, the next step in this case is to look at the turbo......off the car.
If the bearing is good, the vanes can be easily rotated with the fingertip with no binding.
If the output side seal has failed, the vanes on the output side will be soaked with oil, the intercooler will have a large quantity of oil accumulated and all the corresponding intake (charge) tubing will be wet with oil, as well as the throttle body and intake manifold.

If the drive side (exaust) seal has failed, it will be coated with white, barbecued oil residue and the inlet side of the catalyst screen will be wet(ish) with oil......however, a very close examination of the exaust ports for oil residue should take place......failed oil rings or lands will leave the same residue.
If the ports are wet, it is unlikely the turbo seal has failed. Unlikely, does not mean absolute though.

Next, the turbo vanes on the exaust side are looked at veeeery closely for any evidence of a blade strike......a dent, a chip, any deformation between blades.
Any evidence of a blade strike means a bit of broken piston was ejected into the exaust and the turbo chewed it up.

Yes, some of the model year 2011 did experience piston failure......some engines have had the pistons replaced with success.
The key is, there is no acceptable bore damage from a broken piston or ring......any damage requires engine replacement as well as the turbo.

I mentioned a turbo can be a cause of failure:

If a charge side seal fails it starts out as a very small leak.......this accumulates in the intercooler over time.
If you look at the intercooler the charge pipe leading to the throttle body is about five air tubes (rows) above the bottom.
This allows oil to accumulate and with a normal operating engine, should never get high enough to obstruct intake air flow.

If the turbo seal fails on the intake side, the oil level rises rapidly....to the point where air is actually passing through the oil as bubbles causing a rather violent oil storm in there.
In a deep, prolonged throttle application, like you have it almost floored getting onto the highway, the accumulated oil gets drawn all the way to the throttle body and inhaled.......a little bit makes lots of smoke......a little more makes lots of smoke and uncontrolled spark knock, and more than that makes lots of smoke, lots of spark knock, and a moment of hydrolock.
The last two scenarios break piston ring lands and rings.......so, an engine that only needed a turbo replaced, but did not get its intake system cleaned of accumulated oil, ends up being damaged.

Good grief!

I just re read this book.....no wonder my fingers hurt.

Anyways, you can see how this can be a multi horned problem that requires a mechanic to put together every scenario if a successful repair is going to take place.

Sorry if I went too deep.

Rob
 

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Update : Ok here is the latest on my car, I got a call from the advisor letting me know my car has been repaired & is ready for pickup! So here I am excited I roll over to the dealership & go into the service department, & they go over what was done & what they did to repair my car in detail w/o me having to hound them to do it ( That was awesome! ); So here is the run down from the service slip I have posted here :



The "seals" I was mentioning in my previous reply seems was there was a leak found at the rear of the turbo & they replaced the seals & still found leak so they replaced the PIPES.

Now the bad news!!!!! : Well the car seemed to be doing really nice smooth running & pickup speed & responded quickly for the first 15miles. Then all at once the car shuttered some & then jerked alittle let one pop sound out & The engine light came on - so now by this time the service center has closed at the dealership so I keep heading home & during the drive I would push the gas alittle & the engine would start blinking & the "stabilitrak" & "service traction control" lights came on & then would stay on briefly & then would go off - however the engine light is still on & if you accelerate the engine light will blink & then go back to just lit up.

Now what really got me puzzled is this car will run really smooth alot of the time but if you accelerate to much & then next time you push the gas man it will pop, jerk & engine blink .....

So its going back to the dealership tomorrow, so any thoughts on what you guys think it may be? I am honestly wanting to say "Pistons & Rings" But question you guys/gals do you think a car can run this smooth & have bad rings on the pistons?

Also note, there is no huge amount of oil on the transmission case *YET* however I can take my fingers & reach under the throttle body & bring back alot of wet oil. I am not savvy guy on cars but that isn't normal!
I'm sure I said it before......you are going to have to ask......Are they remembering to flush the intercooler of accumulated oil? If it is oil loaded, the accumulated oil will be drawn into the throttle body every time you go into a deeper throttle position.......like entering a freeway.
That gigantic oil inhale will make it smoke, misfire, throw codes......then, as you throttle back, the accumulated oil calms down and sits in the intercooler till another deep throttle event.......this may explain why the engine smooths back out and runs normally when you drive slower after the event.

Of course, the code is set now and will remain for quite a while even if a misfire doesn't occur.
And it may not be a misfire code......if it is oil, the O2 sensor took quite a shot at the same time, disrupting the information it is sending out.

If the 'pipes' that were replaced were the plastic pipes for the intercooler, they required replacement because the oil that is not supposed to be in them, is softening the plastic......that part is a guess, btw.

If you can reproduce this event......take a mechanic for a ride, explaining that: it does this....when I do that.

What a incredible saga!

Rob
 

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Robby : The service slip states it was the "cooling pipes" also states as it continues that it was due to leaking of the coolant out of the pipes from the rear of the turbo.

Also that this car is idling rough still yet, hangs around 700RPM & as I was backing into my driveway the car went down to 600PRMs & the lights started blinking during that! So I get out while idling & listen to the motor it sounds OK, but it doesn't sound like my engine before all this started. So I went to the rear of the car & bent down to exhaust & listened & it just sounds like its "loping" like there is a slight miss in the idle. like smooth then lope smooth lope, does this make sense? I apologize if this is confusing but just explaining best i know how.

So this is another step in this long drawn out saga.....
Well, lets avoid muddying the water too much......we must keep in mind that this seemingly endless thread now involves a first repair attempt by a new dealer, so they deserve the same patience given to the last dealer.

Rob
 

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Patience I have robby, I just think maybe they should have driven it further then 5miles, my service slip shows 5miles out soooo maybe not enough to really get a chance to make something occur?
Well, that is why I suggested you take the tech for a ride to reproduce the event......that way, he can try to reproduce it himself after he/she believes the repair is successful.

Rob
 

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Well The reason they gave was this, that the tech that was working on my car previously they wanted to use him as he has my details & issues that are wrong w/ my car. Well he is currently tied up doing a major repair on another car is booked but they said hopefully by the end of the week.

However at this point I understand they are busy & I am gonna give just abit more patience's as this seems logic & I want to think they are doing me right, however if I experience one more issue from them I am gonna blow my top & someone is gonna get a ear full!

Even when I type that it sounds mean & I don't like to be that way, but I guess sometime that is what it takes is to be firm & don't give no slack huh?
I know you have been patient and I believe your patience will be rewarded.......It (so far) is clear to me this dealer is smart.
You always want the comeback assigned to the tech that was last on the car......only he/she knows what steps have taken place to resolve your concern.

If the car goes to another mechanic, it is the same as if you changed repair shops (again).....the entire diagnostic process must restart.

I might add, there is a fair to good chance the mechanic has instructed the service people he wants your car assigned back to him/her.
Good mechanics tend to want to see that their efforts are successful and almost take it personally when a comeback shows up (I know I sure did).

Rob
 

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What makes folks think this tech is so good? He or she sent a car out and didn't even get the OP home in good working order.
Not saying the tech is good or bad......the OP found the car ran well for the first section of his ride home......obviously the tech. had the same experience.
Since none of us have a crystal ball, the future of the service success was unknown.

Rob
 

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Not saying the tech is good or bad......the OP found the car ran well for the first section of his ride home......obviously the tech. had the same experience.
Since none of us have a crystal ball, the future of the service success was unknown.

Rob[/QUOTE

i am certain you know more about engines and how to repair them than I do. I just don't get not doing a compression test on this car when it has such chronic problems and it is using oil. Why replace all of the other stuff it has a bad cylinder that is causing it to use a lot of oil.
Well......a couple of thoughts here, the first being no one knows for sure if a compression test took place.
Many mechanics, myself included, perform a test but if all is in spec we don't record our findings.

This may have been the case (speculation)

Since the car ran well, the compression had to be satisfactory since, if there had been a out of spec cylinder it would have run poorly at all times.
Compression, or lack thereof, is a mechanical failure that does not momentarily get well, but can be a fooler.

Example: First, we have three rings per piston....the top two are compression sealers, the bottom is oil control and has nothing to do with compression.
So, the focus is on the top two rings.

I have had engines (this is race stuff btw) that had collapsed ring lands and broken top rings pulling perfect compression numbers.
Speculation, on my part, the top ring was doing nothing and the second ring was doing a stellar job of sealing.

In this scenario, I end up with an engine that idles fine, displays no blow by, and operates well.......untill I stress it by deep throttle/high rpm operation......that single ring is unable to hold the additional cylinder pressure by itself and the thing falls on its face.

So, I light foot it back home, and it is running fine by the time I get back.......teardown is now my only path.

In this cars case, since chevy is calling the shots, I suspect teardown will (finally) be authorized.

Anytime warranty is involved, the real potential of too many cooks spoiling the broth presents itself.....and the customer loses faith in the car/mechanic/shop.

For now, don't yet put the tech. on the hook.

Rob
 

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I just wanted to also note, my warranty expires in 12 days from now so I got lucky on that part. But w/ my CCL ( Component Cover Letter ); which covers all the following can a few of you guy/gals give me a run down if this basically covers the whole engine or is there parts I will be responsible for ? I just want to educate myself w/ all this before hand as it will kick in after 13th.

CCL - Engine : The Following engine component will be covered : All internally lubricated engine parts; block; heads; manifolds; oil pan; mounts; seals; gaskets; starter; flywheel; harmonic balancer; belt tensioner; water pump; the entire pressurized fuel system; injectors; all internal engine actuators & electrical components; control modules and module programming; diesel injection pump/glow plugs if applicable and throttle body.
For the most part, the whole engine/trans......key word(s) is/are: All internally lubricated parts......that means anything that gets wet with oil that makes the crankshaft turn.
This includes components required as a consequence of the failure, such as other fluids, gaskets, seals.....even plugs if required for the repair.

Rob
 

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Well that makes me feel better because I would really be concerned if my warranty would run out & w/ all these problem. I feel more delighted knowing I will have full Engine coverage, this doesn't include the transmission as GM advisor mentioned the repeat engine issue's was a big concern & opt-to provide me that coverage at no additional charge which I think was cool.

Now this would cover like the "Turbo" as it don't specifically state this, but its internally oil wet right?, & as you mentioned it for the most part the whole engine, all "major parts"

Now one part of this I am still not understanding correctly; it states "Electrical Components" : would this include ignition coil if ever failed ( actually new one was put on today ); & all other electrical components that would keep the car going? Or is there any under line catches in this?
Electrical parts, such as a coil, would not be covered under powertrain (doesn't get oiled) unless it was damaged in some way during disassembly or reassembly.......hence, something requires replacement as a RESULT of performing a covered repair.
That example above (the coil) is one of those VERRRRRRY gray type claims that would have the dealer doing some serious documentation before they'd get paid, BTW.

Rob
 

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Jeez.....finally.

If there is a scrape of any sort in the bore, the entire engine will be replaced.
There are no remans in the pipeline and the engine is complete with head.

If the bores are undamaged, the dealer can replace just the failed part.......

At least this thing is finally playing out.

Rob
 
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