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I got serious issues with my cruze

55K views 306 replies 28 participants last post by  diesel 
#1 ·
Well it seems I am back in another situation with my Cruze that I do not know what else to do, this is referenced to my latest post here ( http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/34-1-4l-turbo/149626-cruze-oil-leak.html ); after taking it into the dealer 19th of last month, they said it was only a lose throttle body & a valve stuck opened it was all cleaned & off I go the car seemed to do good for awhile, but shortly after coming home it throws a code ( P1071 Air flow issue ); well I just ignore it out of frustration & giving it it finally went off; yay ( well I thought!!! ); soo fast forward til 3rd - I noticed my car stopped responding when I pushed the gas & then all at once it kicks up to 4,000RPM & jerks hard - & then it didn't do it anymore so I ignored it hoping it was just a hiccup & call it a day.

Well each day it seem to get worse & now today the engine light came back on & when you push the gas it just go jerking & making a rattling sound & during the rattling sound it lets out some huge blue smoke puffs - the car looses power & goes to about 1,200RPMs & me pushing the gas to try make the car move, but what worries me the most is the rattling the car is making during the delay in response to pushing the gas - The error code for this is ( P1072 O2 Sensor bank 1 running too rich );

Also oil wet spots are on the splash guard underneath the passenger side front end - this car is a 2011 Chevy Cruze with only 62,000+ miles on it & I cannot seem to keep it together it falling a part literally.

NOTE: its used a quart of oil in 15days - so that isn't normal right?

Any advise?
 
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#111 ·
Man, I'm sorry you've had to go through this whole ordeal. I've had my pcv valve go bad three times, but never had symptoms as bad as yours. The idle would be all messed up. First time it was done they didn't screw it own right and when I got home I had this huge oil leak in the driveway. They just replaced it a third time and I have some small leak that seems to coming from the oil filler cap. Looks like the o-ring on the cap is missing. It wasn't leaking when I took it in. And hearing about cracked pistons is scary. I've seen POS Kia's and Hyundai engines not getting cracked pistons, is this what GM has come too? I've got friends with new Camaros complaining that the interior trim is already falling apart. While the car was getting the tranny replaced last year, I had a new Impala loaner, with the 305hp V-6. That was a nice car. Been thinking of getting one but with all this negative feedback with Chevy and the dishonest service dealers here in Orlando I'm skeptical about getting another GM product. For the money I'd spend I should get a new paint job on my 86 SS, maybe swap in a crate 350 if my current engine does in fact have a rear main seal leak, and the interior trim on this 30 year old car is in good shape.

HOpe you get the issue resolved. I'd call the regional customer care center and tell them about your problem, they might recommend you take t to a different dealer. 1-800-950-2438
 
#115 ·
Update : Well after getting GM into the mix of this situation; I get a call from my case worker at GM, & it seems they have refused to accept my car back for further repairs. However I was gone at the time of the message I call the dealership w/ my cell to make appointment to get it back in there for further repairs, well I get to talk to the service manager who was very rude to me & just said take it back to the original dealer & don't bring it back there the only thing he didn't do is tell me the F off, which that might have been more respectful then the ear full I got from them

Now regarding the car Robby, well the smoking has nearly quit. However it still comes out randomly & the ratting / pinging seems to have slowed down - however the power loss is still there - The rattle or pinging whichever it decides to do at the time is still there. Now I am for sure getting a leak at the throttle body onto the transmission case, & there is a small leak somewhere under the car which is oil because when I moved my car out of the driveway this morning there is a small puddle about side of a quarter there. & the car has only consumed a quart of oil in 38/miles today.

Question ). If the car had to get the accumulated oil out of the intercooler wouldn't that have been all burned out during the 150 miles they test drove my car on?

So I have now contacted another dealership that is gonna take my car in for inspection & repair this week coming; so what do you think w/ these issues here that have slowed down - should I still get a compression check? Do you think this is still possible cracked pistons?
 
#116 ·
First, your car should consume no measurable oil.....period...........in less than 1000 miles for a badly worn engine, which I doubt applies to you.

Tell the new dealer, as well as provide all paperwork related to this event, that dealer #1, has thrown his arms up and said find another dealer.

Let them know the car is consuming vast quantities of oil, is often smoking, and is leaking oil from the throttle body area and it is accumulating under the car.......also let them know the dealer had the car almost three weeks and this is the condition it was returned in.

Avoid any 'Woe is me stories.....save those for church.

Just the facts and then let them have at it.....make certain you leave them EVERY method available to reach you......nothing aggravates a repair shop more than a customer that gives numbers to nowhere.

If your reporting has been honest, you have done a good job of not pestering the last dealer.......give this new dealer the same treatment and remember that this is a new problem to them and they aren't responsible for the jacking you have been going through.

Keep in touch,

Rob
 
#120 ·
I also wanted to mention as I forgot this part, well on the way home w/ the Cruze I smelled this kinda like ceramic burning. But this went away after around 15miles & hasn't returned. Maybe where they put a new "intake manifold" on? Anyone experience this?, Again its not doing it now.
 
#126 ·
Yeah well this dealer here that refused my car, was awesome. I talked very highly of this place & even to GM I told them before even discussing my issue from the first time I called them. I didn't want them to question this dealership in anyway; but for them to do this to me, I am still like WOW that a professional dealership would turn a GM car or truck whatever the type is away is just puzzling to me.

& regarding a review or contacting BBB I don't think I will do this, as they done so good for me all the time; I cannot hate them nor bad mouth them if they don't want to fix my car, they have a right & choice to decline at there discretion & much as I don't understand why that is there choice I guess.

I do have another question for anyone that may have seen this, I am not sure if this is one of those hurry fixes or something they tried to do, but there seems to be a little bit of putty or sealing stuff right on the cam cover right near the cam actuator - also has anyone seen them mark the oil filter area & oil pan bolt w/ like orange paint? I will snap a picture of the sealant looking stuff tomorrow & post a pic.
 
#127 ·
i will respectfully disagree with you, they are a Chevrolet dealer and you have a Chevrolet car, they kept your car for long time and didn't repair your car and then refuse to fix your car? Why would you just rollover and let them walk on you? You didn't do anything wrong they did. If a Chevrolet dealer or any dealer treats me that way I would be in the owners office of the dealer sharing my views.
 
#132 · (Edited)
Update : Ok here is where I am at today, I finally let the car sit over night & checked the oil it seems its middle way down on the dipstick so that indicates that I have used that in 48/hrs which is better then it was previously. So I take it for a drive it seems to do alot better, the rattling & pinging has nearly quit, however its got a rough idle & oil is coming out of the throttle body ( that is for sure now ); & its going down the back of the transmission & dripping down on the ground.

Also with the rough idle it got a miss like the engine is pulling back when you start to push down on the gas to get it moving good & its idling at random RPMs most of the time its at around 700rpm & then at times its around 800rpms ( which is home idle rpm ); from when the car was new. & the gas MPG is awful I am not getting no where near the mileage I was.

I am still awaiting GM to call in updates to the new dealership to get this process started & get the car over to the new dealership. So any feedback on the above symptoms that I am having now?


On Another Note : I did forgot to mention this part, it seems also when I look on the back end of the cam cover somewhere there not where the seal part is but above it like on the top; I am noticing a line of "green" dye oil running across there as well I wiped it off prior to the drive & when I came back its there again. But if its not the cam cover seal what could it be? where else could oil come above it at?
 
#133 ·
Finally - some progress.
 
#134 ·
I know its some progress now; but it seems I am back to my initial issue when I first started this thread :) But I'll take any progress at this point tho really! So fingers cross & hopefully this new dealer can just finish up the job & let me get back to enjoying my Cruze!
 
#135 ·
Update : Well maybe I have spoke to quick on the fixing of my car. Well at first I am running down the road the car running smooth as silk responded quickly & gained speed fast & transmission shifting so smooth. Then when I let up as I had someone in front of me, they turn off I give it gas & slowly pick up speed so I give more gas & then it shutters a bit & then boost up for a second then the "service traction control" message came on & the light start blinking along w/ the engine light blinking, during the engine light blinking the engine was cutting in & out the light blinked 6 times & then both lights went off along w/ the message.

Well now the car is struggling it seems idling a little hard & staying warmer then usual but the temp gauge stays as it it always has since new. So I am rolling along then all at once here we go again the start starts to missing ( no rattling or pinging this time ); & the "Service StabiliTrak message" & the light lit up & along w/ the engine light blinking & blinked 6 more times then went away however the traction control light stayed lit up & along w/ the message staying on this time, the idling is staying rough now & then I let my car cool down & it seems the oil level dropped fast during my normal run this time.

I have appointment for the dealership end of next week, however that is then I am not sure this car is gonna make it til then? & plus now I have to drive additional 15miles from the previous one - so I am not sure I even wanna try driving this car if the issues its experiencing is random like that.

I am so frustrated now, my car sitting at a dealership two weeks & failed to really do anything expect keep my car on the lot & bill GM is basically all they did! Well enough venting & now wanting to know should I even try driving this car the full 40miles to the dealership so whats your suggestion's?
 
#136 ·
Have you thought about shooting a video to document the behaviours that your car is exhibiting?
 
#138 ·
Well now taking a video of the behavior of the car when its missing is when its driving & hard to shoot a video like that. Now regarding w/ the hood up I can see the engine vibrating & RPMs are at around 700 is that normal & sometime it will be at 800.


With the amount of oil you are losing/burning - get it towed. That is what I did when my car had the same symptoms.

Yea, I am thinking this is just what I plan on doing. Its been a complete puzzling type thing going on here, its got me confused badly I am about inches from just giving up & saying to heck w/ it. But in reality I won't do that because that don't solve a thing really.
 
#137 ·
I am so frustrated now, my car sitting at a dealership two weeks & failed to really do anything expect keep my car on the lot & bill GM is basically all they did! Well enough venting & now wanting to know should I even try driving this car the full 40miles to the dealership so whats your suggestion's?
With the amount of oil you are losing/burning - get it towed. That is what I did when my car had the same symptoms.
 
#140 ·
Update : Well Monday morning I got in my car & started it, well it felt alittle rough when I started it - but just ignored it as this car is having bad issues - so it warmed up ( I NEVER drive my car until its fully warm ); summer or winter. Well I get in & start down the road the car was running smooth, then all at once I started to push the gas ( wrong move!! ). The car let a couple pops & started missing & the dash lit up like a Christmas tree, engine light blinking along w/ a few other lights keep in mind No blue smoke this time, so I get it home. Let it cool down & then I notice the oil level dropped by a half a quart. So I said that was it, I called tow company told them come get this thing & sent it to the new dealership & they was awesome said send it on & we will squeeze it in today (monday ) or if its here to late we will check it (tuesday) today! days before my appointment ( really cool! ). So they got it monday evening & they started checking it today but haven't heard anything yet, hopefully they will update me tomorrow & provide me a rental this big engine truck isn't like my gas saver!

So I will update you'll tomorrow hopefully once I get word from the new dealership.
 
#141 ·
I'd find a new dealership to service my vehicle if I were you ... that's way too long to put up with mediocre results at best!
 
#142 ·
Yep the 2 weeks was unacceptable in my opinion & I am sure most if not all here would agree. So yeah its been towed to another dealership after the last dealership has rejected the car & finally cut there loss & gave up. So now I am awaiting update from new dealership, to me right now I have no hope at this point & I am just awaiting to pick up my patched up car again. I am crossing my fingers tho in hopes this dealer doesn't do me this way.
 
#146 ·
Update : Well the dealership called me & said they found the issue & it seems I have another blown turbo & its being replaced & should get my car back tomorrow. But what is alarming to me is that the turbo was replaced I want to say a year ago, I'd have to go through my service records to find exact date, but I know it hasn't been to long ago.

So this makes me wonder what is making it go through turbo this quickly? Suggestions?
 
#147 ·
It is possible that the first turbo failure was a result of a restricted oil feed line (since redesigned)......if this was the case, it is what killed your first and now the second turbo.

Latest instructions call for oil line replacement in conjunction with the turbo.

The oil feed line now has a heat wrap shielding the line as it passes near the turbo to prevent the oil from 'coking' in the line and restricting flow.

Best guess without reading your previous RO.

Rob
 
#149 ·
Kinda went thru this on my car - first was told the Turbo was blown due to the oil line, then since the car was still smoking after turbo replacement, was told new head and pistons needed. My car never left the dealer - for 2 weeks. I picked it up and drove it maybe 15 mins and traded it for a new car. At least for those 15 mins there was no smoke and the car ran good. The sales guy that took my car said it drove fine for him.
 
#150 ·
Kind of a 'what came first, the chicken or the egg' type question.

Yes, a turbo failure can be a cause or a result of a different failure.
It can also be the cause OF a secondary failure.

First, a compression test should be taken......this 'generally' tells if the engine is mechanically sound......I say generally because a compression test only proves the compression rings and their lands (grooves) are sealing well enough to support combustion, however, the oil control rings can be blown apart and compression can be acceptable.......so this is not a 'end all' test.
If compression is good, the next step in this case is to look at the turbo......off the car.
If the bearing is good, the vanes can be easily rotated with the fingertip with no binding.
If the output side seal has failed, the vanes on the output side will be soaked with oil, the intercooler will have a large quantity of oil accumulated and all the corresponding intake (charge) tubing will be wet with oil, as well as the throttle body and intake manifold.

If the drive side (exaust) seal has failed, it will be coated with white, barbecued oil residue and the inlet side of the catalyst screen will be wet(ish) with oil......however, a very close examination of the exaust ports for oil residue should take place......failed oil rings or lands will leave the same residue.
If the ports are wet, it is unlikely the turbo seal has failed. Unlikely, does not mean absolute though.

Next, the turbo vanes on the exaust side are looked at veeeery closely for any evidence of a blade strike......a dent, a chip, any deformation between blades.
Any evidence of a blade strike means a bit of broken piston was ejected into the exaust and the turbo chewed it up.

Yes, some of the model year 2011 did experience piston failure......some engines have had the pistons replaced with success.
The key is, there is no acceptable bore damage from a broken piston or ring......any damage requires engine replacement as well as the turbo.

I mentioned a turbo can be a cause of failure:

If a charge side seal fails it starts out as a very small leak.......this accumulates in the intercooler over time.
If you look at the intercooler the charge pipe leading to the throttle body is about five air tubes (rows) above the bottom.
This allows oil to accumulate and with a normal operating engine, should never get high enough to obstruct intake air flow.

If the turbo seal fails on the intake side, the oil level rises rapidly....to the point where air is actually passing through the oil as bubbles causing a rather violent oil storm in there.
In a deep, prolonged throttle application, like you have it almost floored getting onto the highway, the accumulated oil gets drawn all the way to the throttle body and inhaled.......a little bit makes lots of smoke......a little more makes lots of smoke and uncontrolled spark knock, and more than that makes lots of smoke, lots of spark knock, and a moment of hydrolock.
The last two scenarios break piston ring lands and rings.......so, an engine that only needed a turbo replaced, but did not get its intake system cleaned of accumulated oil, ends up being damaged.

Good grief!

I just re read this book.....no wonder my fingers hurt.

Anyways, you can see how this can be a multi horned problem that requires a mechanic to put together every scenario if a successful repair is going to take place.

Sorry if I went too deep.

Rob
 
#151 ·
Well said Robby, lets hope this repair was taken seriously & not just rushed. But time will tell the whole story once I receive it back. Again thanks Robby for the detailed response on all the possibilities it could be.

I will update further once I receive my car back........
 
#152 ·
if I read this correctly you are on four turbos in this car? I couldn't get rid of the car fast enough. Heck you must have a tow truck driver on speed dial?
 
#156 · (Edited)
Update : As per my last update my Turbo was blown again; well today the service advisor calls me & let me know that my car still isn't ready as they needed to order "seals" that it needed - I asked what seals was bad?, They responded well I am not sure on that but I will receive another call once the car has been completed on repairs. So here I am again :confused: I bet I get some answers when I get my paper work w/ all the stuff that been done.

I sure hope I am not getting the run around again as I did w/ the previous dealership wow if so that would be to much......
 
#157 ·
I think when they say seals are bad and they don't give you an answer that is just unacceptable. It's your car, you deserve honest communication as to what repairs are being made. Are they providing a loaner car?
 
#158 ·
The service advisor may not have the exact seals information. It should definitely be on the paperwork. I also recommend talking to the tech to see what he found. Many times the write up is incomplete.
 
#160 ·
Your car has had frequent problems and 4 turbos being replaced. Asking questions and requesting answers is not adding stress to their job. I would be in the shop at least once asking questions and requesting answers. I just respectfully disagree with your approach. When the dealer says something to me that isn't reasonable I am just a bulldog and get what I am asking for, I do it in a professional manner but always get what I am asking for. I would want to have a face to face conversation with the tech for a few minutes discussing all the issues, not the least of which is why in the world have I gone thru 4 turbos while under warranty? I do a fair amount of long distance travel in my Cruze, I would want to know how they are addressing my cars problems so I have confidence I can go out of state with my car.
 
#161 ·
Update : Ok here is the latest on my car, I got a call from the advisor letting me know my car has been repaired & is ready for pickup! So here I am excited I roll over to the dealership & go into the service department, & they go over what was done & what they did to repair my car in detail w/o me having to hound them to do it ( That was awesome! ); So here is the run down from the service slip I have posted here :

- TurboCharger
- Gasket
- PIPE
- SEAL
- DEXCOOL
- Connector
- PIPE
- PIPE
The "seals" I was mentioning in my previous reply seems was there was a leak found at the rear of the turbo & they replaced the seals & still found leak so they replaced the PIPES.

Now the bad news!!!!! : Well the car seemed to be doing really nice smooth running & pickup speed & responded quickly for the first 15miles. Then all at once the car shuttered some & then jerked alittle let one pop sound out & The engine light came on - so now by this time the service center has closed at the dealership so I keep heading home & during the drive I would push the gas alittle & the engine would start blinking & the "stabilitrak" & "service traction control" lights came on & then would stay on briefly & then would go off - however the engine light is still on & if you accelerate the engine light will blink & then go back to just lit up.

Now what really got me puzzled is this car will run really smooth alot of the time but if you accelerate to much & then next time you push the gas man it will pop, jerk & engine blink .....

So its going back to the dealership tomorrow, so any thoughts on what you guys think it may be? I am honestly wanting to say "Pistons & Rings" But question you guys/gals do you think a car can run this smooth & have bad rings on the pistons?

Also note, there is no huge amount of oil on the transmission case *YET* however I can take my fingers & reach under the throttle body & bring back alot of wet oil. I am not savvy guy on cars but that isn't normal!
 
#162 ·
Update : Ok here is the latest on my car, I got a call from the advisor letting me know my car has been repaired & is ready for pickup! So here I am excited I roll over to the dealership & go into the service department, & they go over what was done & what they did to repair my car in detail w/o me having to hound them to do it ( That was awesome! ); So here is the run down from the service slip I have posted here :



The "seals" I was mentioning in my previous reply seems was there was a leak found at the rear of the turbo & they replaced the seals & still found leak so they replaced the PIPES.

Now the bad news!!!!! : Well the car seemed to be doing really nice smooth running & pickup speed & responded quickly for the first 15miles. Then all at once the car shuttered some & then jerked alittle let one pop sound out & The engine light came on - so now by this time the service center has closed at the dealership so I keep heading home & during the drive I would push the gas alittle & the engine would start blinking & the "stabilitrak" & "service traction control" lights came on & then would stay on briefly & then would go off - however the engine light is still on & if you accelerate the engine light will blink & then go back to just lit up.

Now what really got me puzzled is this car will run really smooth alot of the time but if you accelerate to much & then next time you push the gas man it will pop, jerk & engine blink .....

So its going back to the dealership tomorrow, so any thoughts on what you guys think it may be? I am honestly wanting to say "Pistons & Rings" But question you guys/gals do you think a car can run this smooth & have bad rings on the pistons?

Also note, there is no huge amount of oil on the transmission case *YET* however I can take my fingers & reach under the throttle body & bring back alot of wet oil. I am not savvy guy on cars but that isn't normal!
Sounds like it is possible the turbo went out again. When you drive slowly the turbo isn't working, when you accerlate a little harder it gets boost from turbo. Just my thoughts, hope I am wrong.
 
#168 ·
I am starting to think this as well, but Robby is making a good point as well on the accumulated oil left in the intake area. But wouldn't a trained tech know to clean this as part of the steps required for proper resolution to a issue of such in question? - But w/ broke piston would this give the same exact symptoms?; Run smooth, idle rough, given random knock, jerking, missing then smooth off again?

I am just here shooting in the dark on this; so forgive me if these sounds stupid.
 
#165 · (Edited)
Robby : The service slip states it was the "cooling pipes" also states as it continues that it was due to leaking of the coolant out of the pipes from the rear of the turbo.

It shows total of 4 PIPES replaced.......

Also that this car is idling rough still yet, hangs around 700RPM & as I was backing into my driveway the car went down to 600PRMs & the lights started blinking during that! So I get out while idling & listen to the motor it sounds OK, but it doesn't sound like my engine before all this started. So I went to the rear of the car & bent down to exhaust & listened & it just sounds like its "loping" like there is a slight miss in the idle. like smooth then lope smooth lope, does this make sense? I apologize if this is confusing but just explaining best i know how.

So this is another step in this long drawn out saga.....
 
#166 ·
Robby : The service slip states it was the "cooling pipes" also states as it continues that it was due to leaking of the coolant out of the pipes from the rear of the turbo.

Also that this car is idling rough still yet, hangs around 700RPM & as I was backing into my driveway the car went down to 600PRMs & the lights started blinking during that! So I get out while idling & listen to the motor it sounds OK, but it doesn't sound like my engine before all this started. So I went to the rear of the car & bent down to exhaust & listened & it just sounds like its "loping" like there is a slight miss in the idle. like smooth then lope smooth lope, does this make sense? I apologize if this is confusing but just explaining best i know how.

So this is another step in this long drawn out saga.....
Well, lets avoid muddying the water too much......we must keep in mind that this seemingly endless thread now involves a first repair attempt by a new dealer, so they deserve the same patience given to the last dealer.

Rob
 
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