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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am sick and tired of this car, and I've only had it for about 1500 miles and 2 months.

It's only the second car to ever leave me stranded and needing a tow. Replaced the coolant bottle and cap, and it was fine... for a week.

Then I noticed coolant under the car. Poked around under the hood, noticed the top heater core hose was in a bad way, so I replaced that.

Now it's 5 days later. Because of the holiday weekend, I've only driven the car a couple of times, but I noticed the coolant level has dipped again. :evil3:

I think I want to replace this car with something more reliable, like a 30 year old Renault.
 

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Engine Auto part Vehicle Car Compact car


Found my coolant leak here. Cost me <$100 to repair, $20 for overflow hose, and $67 for Water Outlet Housing.
 

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Sounds to me like you bought a used car that hadn't been maintained.
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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With a little effort on your part and a few parts, you can have a reliable car. Most of the common leaks are fairly well documented here. Also make sure you "burp" the system enough to fully insure that no air is left in it otherwise it will continue to release air into the reservoir and make it look like you are loosing coolant.
 

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Used cars = somebody else's problems.

There are quite a few spots that leak coolant on these things. The coolant outlet, the hose that connects to it, and the water pump are all VERY common on 1.4L Cruzes. The water pump outlet's another one.

If you find the water pump to be leaking, there's an extended 10 yr/150k warranty on it that will cost you nothing but your time to take it in.
 

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I am sick and tired of this car, and I've only had it for about 1500 miles and 2 months.

It's only the second car to ever leave me stranded and needing a tow. Replaced the coolant bottle and cap, and it was fine... for a week.

Then I noticed coolant under the car. Poked around under the hood, noticed the top heater core hose was in a bad way, so I replaced that.

Now it's 5 days later. Because of the holiday weekend, I've only driven the car a couple of times, but I noticed the coolant level has dipped again. :evil3:

I think I want to replace this car with something more reliable, like a 30 year old Renault.

03-22-2019, 10:31 AM
#1
KDulcimer
[OP]
Driver's Ed
Join DateMar 2019Posts6

[h=2]Just bought my 2012 6MT[/h]
Hi guys,
I bought a 6 speed manual 2012 Cruze on Tuesday. I'm here to get some help with whatever pops up. With 157k miles, I expect a few things to pop up.


I'm trying to squeeze a tear out for ya, but I just can't!!!​



 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Buys 7 year old car.
Complains because it has 7 year old hoses.
Between my wife and I, we've owned 9 cars. This is the newest car we've ever had. The last time I had issues with coolant hoses, it was on a 18 year old Golf. I've had 20 year old cars with no coolant hose issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks to all the people who mentioned the upgraded power train warranty, but this car is at 158k miles. Besides, the water pump was replaced in November, so I wouldn't expect it to go out again quite so soon.

I have to say, I've been around a couple of car forums around the web, and I haven't been impressed with the help at this forum, not just in this thread, but also through reading many threads. One person has asked questions. One person has tried diagnosis. Firing the parts cannon is an expensive and frustrating way to fix your car. Basic diagnostics will take you a long ways.

I *think* I found the source of this leak. One repair the previous owner did was the turbo oil feed line. Looks like he removed a hose clamp in the process and didn't replace it. Picture attached, if it'll let me.
 

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We used to change all our hoses and belts every 5 years. Should have changed motor mounts and suspension rubber parts on the same schedule but most people were too cheap for that.

Then the rubber got better, and belts/hoses started failing at 10-20 years, but replacing at 7-10 years is still a good idea.

But the LUV engine Cruzes run higher water temps than normal cars, and if you buy a first gen 1.4L over 5 years or 100k miles, you should replace the hoses upon purchase if you're going to keep it more than a few months (it's a good idea to replace all the fluids upon purchase, so just do the hoses when you drain the coolant).
 

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figuring those cost into your purchase means adding at least an extra $500 to your purchase since you not only have to find an honest mechanic that will do the work and the cost of the materials themselves, but any unforeseen issues he will find (and they will find something) when he's doing the work.

it's almost better to buy a car on craigslist than from a dealer in modern age because they both lie and they both have a lot of issues to work on but the private seller won't slap 10k to the price tag and force you to finance through a bank.

no such thing as full disclosure or honesty in the car selling business nor in the car repair business either. neither would make any money selling the junkers they can get their hands on or fully making them work.
 

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We used to change all our hoses and belts every 5 years. Should have changed motor mounts and suspension rubber parts on the same schedule but most people were too cheap for that.

Then the rubber got better, and belts/hoses started failing at 10-20 years, but replacing at 7-10 years is still a good idea.

But the LUV engine Cruzes run higher water temps than normal cars, and if you buy a first gen 1.4L over 5 years or 100k miles, you should replace the hoses upon purchase if you're going to keep it more than a few months (it's a good idea to replace all the fluids upon purchase, so just do the hoses when you drain the coolant).
I came here to say 7-10 years is the normal lifetime of rubber hoses, but it's already been said. That, coupled with brittle plastic things in cooling systems everywhere, and you'll probably be changing things MORE often in modern car cooling systems (don't buy a BMW).

If you've had cars beyond that without failures, you've got some luck that's finally run out on this one.

Also, the life of the COOLANT is 5 yr/150k...so change that too before it gets corrosive. And all the other fluids too - brake, trans fluid probably have been neglected too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I came here to say 7-10 years is the normal lifetime of rubber hoses, but it's already been said. That, coupled with brittle plastic things in cooling systems everywhere, and you'll probably be changing things MORE often in modern car cooling systems (don't buy a BMW).

If you've had cars beyond that without failures, you've got some luck that's finally run out on this one.

Also, the life of the COOLANT is 5 yr/150k...so change that too before it gets corrosive. And all the other fluids too - brake, trans fluid probably have been neglected too.
I'm down to the bottom of my 2nd gallon bottle of coolant. So I'm inclined to think the coolant has, essentially, been replaced at this point.

Trans fluid is on the list for replacement, should I keep the car that long. If it's just a question of what I want to do.

Since my last post, I fixed another leak, and that brings up another point: hose clamps. Replace them with your hoses. Those spring-style clamps must have a limited life expectancy, because that's what happened with this one. It wasn't even round.
 

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Since my last post, I fixed another leak, and that brings up another point: hose clamps. Replace them with your hoses. Those spring-style clamps must have a limited life expectancy, because that's what happened with this one. It wasn't even round.
Sounds like it got boogered up at some point. They can be a pain to manipulate using ordinary pliers, so I can see one getting damaged. I finally invested in a couple pairs of hose clamp pliers. They have a lock feature which helps immensely.

The good thing about this type of clamp is that it stays tight. As the hose ages, it shrinks slightly and the spring tension of the stock clamp allows it to "shrink" with the hose.

The popular worm drive replacements have a drawback - they need to be periodically tightened to avoid leaks. There are some expensive, screw-type clamps that will supposedly stay tight, but I've never invested in them.

I will admit that I used to think the stock clamps were a cheap alternative to the superior band clamps, but I've learned over the years that the stock ones will stay tight (if they are not damaged) while the worm types need to be snugged up from time to time.

Doug

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK, at this point, I believe I've fixed all my coolant leaks, but the car still just... overheats. I had one such event today where Torque said the coolant temperature was 270 F.

It only happens when some of these conditions combine:


  • Low engine speed
  • Already up to temperature
  • Climb a hill (I'm in northern Indiana, so we're *not* talking anything drastic here)
  • Take off from a stop (I don't accelerate hard)

And it doesn't even always happen if all these conditions are met.

Interestingly enough, one of the best things I can do if it does overheat is to give the engine some revs. I'm guessing that's because it makes the coolant circulate faster.

Today, after it overheated, the engine ran 180-200 F, down from the usual 215-230 F.

I don't think I'm getting a bad reading. The coolant was boiling in the tank today.

Possibilities:

  • Bad head gasket (I have yet to do the first oil change, but the level and color are normal)
  • Clog somewhere in system (radiator?)
  • Bad thermostat

Honestly, I'm pretty close to just taking the route of replacing the thermostat with a lower temperature one.
 

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OK, at this point, I believe I've fixed all my coolant leaks, but the car still just... overheats. I had one such event today where Torque said the coolant temperature was 270 F.

It only happens when some of these conditions combine:

  • Low engine speed
  • Already up to temperature
  • Climb a hill (I'm in northern Indiana, so we're *not* talking anything drastic here)
  • Take off from a stop (I don't accelerate hard)
Can you tell if the radiator fan is running when it gets hot? There are 5 relays controlling it. Only takes one bad one to make the fan go off when it's supposed to be on.

Doug

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There are 2 annoying things that happen with these cars that kinda sound like what you're dealing with:

-Coolant temp sensors (there are 2 or 3 depending on the engine). If one disagrees with the other - sometimes due to bad sensor, sometimes due to an air pocket, the overheat warning is triggered.
-Air bubble in cooling system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes, the radiator fan is kicking on.

I thought about a bad temp sensor too, but I don't see anything that indicates it's lying to me. The coolant was boiling in the coolant tank today. And the temperature doesn't jump around-- it moves step by step.

I've burped the system by hand as much as possible. I've also run it for a minute with the coolant tank cap off, not that I'm sure that does anything. Are there any places I should check besides the coolant tank to see if there are air bubbles in the system?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thank you Lazer, that is entirely unhelpful.

Most cars will last 200k with halfway decent maintenance. I bought this car to replace a 2007 Ford Focus with 270k miles on it. That car is running more reliably than a car which is 5 years newer and has 100k fewer miles. Your point?
 
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