[mastrbuildr]

1.8l.... has anyone checked the darn oil cooler? I performed a head gasket replacement myself and just out of why not I got a skp oil cooler. To my confusion there was no leak in the head, block or, gasket. But more simply the oil cooler seals had been baked hard and fractured allowing oil into the coolant.

I just bought a 2014 Cruze base model 1.8, auto with 95k miles. I am losing coolant internally and I surmised a blown head gasket? (I know the car overheated before I purchased). My oils not milky but seems very diluted and I'm getting water droplets and some white smoke from tailpipe.
I've never replaced a head gasket on an overhead cam engine before. Can I remove the head without having to remove or interfere with timing belt? If after removing head and I find the need to get it resurfaced do I have to remove the camshafts first or can the two cams just stay in place? My main concern is just getting timing out of whack. I can turn wrenches and follow manuals but I'm an amatuer with this kind of stuff. (obviously, lol) Thank you for any insight you may offer.

 

[mastrbuildr]

You seem like a nice guy so I'll try to be nice.
Replacing a head gasket takes time, and it takes careful wrenching. Judging by your statements the job is currently well beyond your knowledge level. However, if you take your time and use the power of the internets you could do it. So I'll help ya.


Water constantly comes out of car exhaust, its called science. Does it smell sweet? If so, I'd say the blown head gasket is pretty much confirmed.


You need to find the need. Have the head magna-fluxed and surfaced.


From my previous head gaskets jobs, the cams can stay in place. And I assume the same is true for your engine.


This is very insightful of you. When removing a head the general procedure is it to bring the #1 cylinder to TDC.

I'd buy some kind of reference for this job, like a Chilton's manual. You are going to NEED a step by step, also all the torque settings.
Hopefully someone with experience on our engines can help. Given the small amount of people and considering you have the 1.8L I wouldn't expect much.

I wish you luck.

Thanks Johnny!
I did buy a Chiltons when I first contemplated my own repairs, unfortunately it's somewhat vague with regards to Head Gasket replacement and all the illustrations are for the 1.4 turbo, not one dang pic of the 1.8! Think I'll try to find the Dealership Service manual. I know I can unbolt parts and pull the head, I know I need to buy special tools to lock in cam gears and such, what I'm still green on is if I can leave Timing Belt in place so as not to disturb Timing but still pull the Head? This is the area of expertise where I def need some learnin....
Also if the head is cracked/warped etc and I need a replacement the thought of transferring cams to replacement head hurts my brain as I believe positioning of Cams is most important and once again the green washes over??

 

[mastrbuildr]

View attachment 296947
You just spend a lot of time disassembling fragile plastic connectors, as most the wire loom comes undone, and turning alot of bolts.

Air filter box to intake manifold need to come out, throttle body has pcv venting and coolant plumbing to mess with.

Draining fluids, oil and coolant.

Exhaust manifold.... Dip stick tube, o2 sensor and heat shield need to come off. Then 9 little gremlins called studs.

Valve cover then head bolts.

Took me 4 days of on the fly mechanical inclination.

In my case the head wasn't nessacery to remove as it was the oil cooler. usually when the cooler goes it allows oil te leach into the coolant.

View attachment 296947
You just spend a lot of time disassembling fragile plastic connectors, as most the wire loom comes undone, and turning alot of bolts.

Air filter box to intake manifold need to come out, throttle body has pcv venting and coolant plumbing to mess with.

Draining fluids, oil and coolant.

Exhaust manifold.... Dip stick tube, o2 sensor and heat shield need to come off. Then 9 little gremlins called studs.

Valve cover then head bolts.

Took me 4 days of on the fly mechanical inclination.

In my case the head wasn't nessacery to remove as it was the oil cooler. usually when the cooler goes it allows oil te leach into the coolant.

After reading your original post I thought how nice it would be just to replace oil cooler and/or o-rings.
In my case it seems as though my coolant (just water for now) is leeching into my oil versus oil contaminating coolant...or maybe they're both one in the same, I dunno?
My oil seems very watery and coolant tank def losing fluid but seems internal not external.
Also my coil pack had condensation on the two inner coils. Somewhere I read that was a telltale sign of bad gasket???
In addition to the white smoke and unusual amount of water out the tail pipe....
Wonder if oil cooler could be all it is, I'll certainly check it.
Thanks again for your time and insight.

 

[mastrbuildr]

Oh.. yeah the belt definitely needs to come off. Pro tip get a white marker and when the engine is timed mark each piece of the belt at the corasponding time mark, or make one. And boom you'll know for certain if it's aligned.

Also I never locked the cam gears. In the timing position the exhaust cam will rotate 8th of a turn and is easy enough to rotate it back in place when the time comes for it.

Thanks for the tips!

 

[mastrbuildr]

Thanks, I saw this one... unfortunately no real detail