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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi,

I'm thinking of putting in aftermarket heated seats (the $30-50 sheet ones on Amazon) for the driver seat and wanted to make them run when the remote starter is used. For that, what fuse should I tap into? Hopefully I don't have to go all the way to the fuse block in the engine compartment; instrument panel fuse block would be less painful.

This is for a 2015 Cruze LT1. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Just for testing out: I checked the fuse in the engine compartment fuse block (#33) meant for heated seats, if one had the option installed, and it was getting power even with the car completely off (no remote start either).

:uhh:
 

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The fuse you mentioned you found is for the switch operated heated seats that come factory installed which would explain why it has constant power. If you want to install the heated seat covers, that wouldn't be the one I would use. I don't believe you'll find a fuse that only provides power when the vehicle is in a remote started state although I could be wrong. Wouldn't hurt to keep looking. The only way I can think of at the moment is to hook them up with an in-line switch and tap into a fuse that runs when the vehicle is running. That way you can turn off the switch when you're driving if it gets too warm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
The fuse you mentioned you found is for the switch operated heated seats that come factory installed which would explain why it has constant power. If you want to install the heated seat covers, that wouldn't be the one I would use. I don't believe you'll find a fuse that only provides power when the vehicle is in a remote started state although I could be wrong. Wouldn't hurt to keep looking. The only way I can think of at the moment is to hook them up with an in-line switch and tap into a fuse that runs when the vehicle is running. That way you can turn off the switch when you're driving if it gets too warm.
That seems like a good reason for why the heated seats fuse has constant power.

As for my requirements, I did not mean I wanted to connect to a fuse that ONLY ran in the remote start state. I meant that I wanted a fuse in the instrument panel (interior) fuse block that ALSO ran in the remote start state, along with when the car is on. Also, the heated seats came with a switch that allows it to be turned off.

Now that I think about it, it may not be possible to get power in remote start mode from the interior fuse block. I don't actually have a multimeter or a test light so checking each individual fuse is such a pain (I had to hold the heated seats sheets and plug them into the engine fuse block and wrap the wire around the fuse to test last time - not a fast way).

Worst comes to worst, I may end up using the power seats (which I don't have) fuse and tapping from it, though in that case it will only work when the car is on.
 

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Markham109-

I did this mod, and you can see my write up and thread in my signature.

I took the power from I believe it's fuses 7 or 8 or 8 & 9. They are two 20 amp fuses that each control one of the Interior Cig lighters. This power switches off when the driver opens the door. This was important to me, because I didn't want someone to be able to accidently leave the seat on, causing a dead battery.

All the circuits inside the car are off when the remote start is operating. Unfortunately there's no way to heat the seat that I've found remotely. Without going through the firewall, which I wasn't willing to do.

The Dorman kit I installed heats the seat with ambient temperatures <0F in less than 2 minutes. In my opinion that's fast enough, vs. dealing with the headaches of finding power with the remote start operating.

I believe the seat is also dead with the remote start, but you would have to try that to verify.

I'm currently having issues over Christmas vacation with both the passenger and driver using heated seats, the rear window defogger and the heat on. The car went into heavy charge mode.. Voltage 15.1V and had a big drag on the engine. Battery pulled and load tested out at the required 525 CCA.

I currently have the seats unplugged from the add a fuse in the fuse box doing some testing.

Remember there is a passenger occupancy sensor on the passenger bottom cushion. There's no way to heat that cushion without running risks of air bag lights..

Drivers seat is very nice though! I think I just have to be careful with the loads. Driving the Cruze when the 1.4L is at high voltage is a drag to the engine, and is like driving a turd! I may have something else going on. But battery fully charged and this issue goes away.. So therefore I believe it's load related.

Nearly all the electrical fuzes and open fuse holders in the interior fuze block are hot with 12 Volts with the car off! I was a bit surprised when I probed them with a multimeter.

If that's what you want then great there's a way to grab the power there, but at 6 Amps per seat, a car battery will die very quickly if these are left on.

Let me know if you need help. It was the first attempt at doing seats for me. It took me a long time since I removed the seats and did a full tear down. It could be intimidating if you've never done this before.

Cruze seats do not use Hog Rings. There are clips in the foam cushion and a plastic rod sewn into the seat cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey carbon02,

Yes I saw earlier and I've been following your guide as I make preparations before the install, and will reference it when I do the work.

I've got a multimeter coming in tomorrow so then I'll be able to make a better determination as to whether any of the fuse slots in the interior fuse block can give power during the remote start state, though my hopes aren't high.

I'm not going to bother messing with the passenger side due to the existence of the occupancy sensor, as you stated, and because I normally drive alone. I think that just having the driver's side heated will also be easier on the car. Though it now makes me curious: is what you noticed with the load the case only for aftermarket heated seats or even the OEM ones?

Also, I didn't remove any trim near the fuse block but is there a bolt near there to ground to? I couldn't find one with minor searching.

Thanks!
 

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Before the fall in gas prices, I drove a lot of miles, and rarely used the Heat and Defroster. I typically seen voltages of 13.9-14.5. Within the last 6 months, I've been driving the car for comfort like a normal person would. Heat, Defrost, and heated seats. And I've noticed the higher winter voltages.

When using the remote start the rear window defog comes on. This is tied into outdoor temperature. I'm not a fan of this, and that could be another reason why the voltage is going high. Make sure when you get into the car you shut the back window off.

I used the console ground, because it was there, and I've had nearly all that apart allready.

I briefly looked for a ground by pulling up the drivers door bottom door sill on the inside. I thought I remember reading something that there's a ground post there.

There's another ground behind the radio, based on info when I was looking for the console ground. I didn't think that was convenient at all.

What kind of mats did you buy? The generic ones off "the bay" or something else? Mine were white with an actual wire in them. Not the carbon fiber ones. I feel I paid a little too much, but honestly I'm not sure that I want to do the job again. Even the second seat took two good afternoons to remove from car, un-upholster, heat, and reinstall.

I wish the pads I used were a little longer. I'd really like a pad big enough to cover the entire back of the backseat, all the way to the shoulder area.

Anyway it works. I may plug the heated seats back in, as I see the voltages are back at 14.9-15.0 today, and actually I'd expect lower based on my first 3 years of driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Interesting. I did notice the console ground today, which I used for my multimeter testing. And according to some online images, there is also a ground to the left of the plug to open the front hood, under some plastic.

I checked the interior fuse box and as you said, the majority of the fuses were getting 12.5V or so with the car off, similarly in remote start mode. The exceptions being both of the cigarette lighter plugs; they only got any voltage when the car is on with about 14.5V.

In the engine compartment fuse block, the majority of the fuses had no voltage with the car off, but the heated seats one and a few others did. But since the OEM heated seats cannot be used (I think) with the car off, this is likely enforced through software limitations.

In the end, I've decided to simply tap from the front cigarette lighter fuse and will possibly do the work this weekend if I can get some free time. Winter is nearly over but if I can find the courage to not be lazy, I may just do it.

I bought the CrimeStopper HSK150 pads, though they look an awful lot like "the bay" generic ones: http://www.amazon.com/Crimestopper-HSK150-Deluxe-Heated-Seat/dp/B001L6HYQK
 

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In the end, I've decided to simply tap from the front cigarette lighter fuse
You might want to do a quick test and see when that turns off. I know some things, like my power seats, will run for a bit after the car is shut off. I think it's cut off after 10 minutes or when the door is opened. But I don't like putting that kind of stress on the battery.
 
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The Cig fuse does remain hot for approximately 10 minutes with the engine off provided the driver doesn't exit the car. It's known by RAP power. Retained Accessory Power. My GPS notifies me every time I open the door to get out that the power was disconnected. It was disconnected because RAP was shut off when the door opened.

Why the factory Radio is not tied into RAP power is beyond me. I'm guessing there maybe another batter protection programming issue possibly saving the battery if you were to leave the radio on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Thanks guys for the replies.

Had decided to go ahead with the installation. I encountered a road block: the bolt that holds the seat to the ground was so tight that I couldn't even move it an inch with my socket wrench. I ended up stripping some of the bolt a bit too. Looking back, perhaps I should have used a breaker bar (which I didn't have).

For this reason, reasons of laziness and because the car is a lease, I did not remove the seat. Instead I used generic seat covers, which fit decently, and put the pads underneath them and ensured they do not move.

As for the electrical work, I used a dual fuse tap and tapped to the front cigarette lighter fuse and used the bolt that is under the plastic piece under the front hood open latch to ground. I figure this is the safest way to ensure the heated seats don't run for too long once the car is turned off.

Also, as the car is a lease, I did not drill a hole for the heated seat switch and instead taped the wire on the left side of the driver seat discreetly.

Looking back, I giggle a little at my "ghetto" solution but there is a positive from this: the heated seat is movable and can be taken from car to car. :D
 
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