Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Was getting tired of my big bulky remote that was velcro'd to the overhead console, so I decided to install a Homelink transmitter. Picked this one up on ebay for about $20.00. Here's a rundown of the basic installation I did, however I have not wired up the unit yet as I don't have any schematics to see where I can pull power from.



Disassembly of the overhead console is pretty straight forward. Gently pull down on the trim piece from the back and slowly work your way forward. Be careful of the microphone. The wires are short and if your not careful you can rip them out. You will need to pop the microphone out of it's holder and just leave it hanging there. The front edge of the trim is tucked under the light assembly, but if you are careful you can work it out. Then there are two torx screws holding the main console assembly to the roof. Slowly pull the console down ensuring the clips to not catch on the head liner and unplug the wiring from the light assembly.



Unfortunately I forgot to take any before pictures so I taped in the piece I cutout, so you get an idea of what it originally looked like.



The cutout is just a little undersized than the full width of the Homelink unit. This is to allow the unit to sit flush on the cover when installed.



In order for the unit to fit down in I had to remove the extra tabs from the around the Homelink transmitter housing. I also had to trim just a little off of the back of the plug, so the unit would fit correctly. It just barely fits lengthwise between the back of the console housing and the light assembly.



I then snapped the cover back on and marked the hole for the button assembly. This is where you need to be careful. You can always make the hole a little bigger, but you can't make it smaller. So this may take a little time.



Once the hole was big enough for the button assembly to fit in, I traced the outside so that I knew how big I could actually go with the hole. If you look closely you can see the clear plastic that holds the buttons together. The hole must be big enough for all of this to clear or the buttons will not work.



Next I ground off the reinforcements on the cover to allow the unit to sit flush against the cover.



A quick look before installation back into the car.



Install the main console housing. Then the transmitter will slide in through the hole and just sits loosely on top of the housing with just a little protruding through the bottom of the housing.



Next snap the cover back on the console. Leave the light assembly out so that you can reach in and hold the unit down while you snap on the button assembly. Once the button assembly is snapped in, the unit is held in pretty tight. Shouldn't need anything else to hold the unit down or to keep it from rattling.



Voila, looks completely factory installed. The interior is actually grey, but the pictures all look beige for some reason.

Now I need to figure out where I am going to pull power from. I don't want to pull from the dome light assembly as that always has power and I want the remote to only have power when the key is on. This is to keep from having to find an illumination circuit for the lights. I just jumpered the lights and the power at the plug.

Anybody else do this install without a sunroof? Saw one on here with the sunroof where he was able to pull power directly from the sunroof power as it is switched.

Please see here for an install in a sunroof-equipped Cruze:
http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/36-a...stalled-homelink-module-overhead-console.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Yep, now on my to do list

Awesome job!!! Looks like a clean install.

FYI for those who install one of these, there are two different "series" or versions of Homelink. One prior to 2006 and one released after (I believe the year is 2006). As technology advanced, "repeater" type remotes were introduced. Homelink adapted to this. However, there is a repeater module you can buy and attach or plug into Homelink equipped garage door opener. I learned about this with my wife's 2006 Pontiac Montana SV6. We bought a newer garage door opener (2008?) and it was not compatible. However our new Routan is compatible with it.
I would buy the latest version of one, and buy the repeater to make it compatible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
742 Posts
Great write up with photos, I know there was another write up awhile back that covered this also, I don't remember what he used for power though. I know a lot of us have velcrowed our remotes in the driver door hidden back in the storage bin so it was out of sight.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,243 Posts
Fantastic write-up! I've been thinking about doing this in my 2012 Cruze for a long time. I really would like to get rid of the garage door opener located over my visor. The Homelink transmitter that you purchased was it a universal?

Sent from my last surviving brain cell
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
10,713 Posts
Great write up with photos, I know there was another write up awhile back that covered this also, I don't remember what he used for power though. I know a lot of us have Velcro'd our remotes in the driver door hidden back in the storage bin so it was out of sight.
Not a bad idea, mine is tucked inside the map pocket on the passenger center console. I may try this mod eventually. All the things that disappear from cars over the years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Fantastic write-up! I've been thinking about doing this in my 2012 Cruze for a long time. I really would like to get rid of the garage door opener located over my visor. The Homelink transmitter that you purchased was it a universal?

Sent from my last surviving brain cell
I think all are pretty much universal. This one had three connections, power, illumination, and ground. I am just jumpering the illumination back to the power. This will turn on the button illumination anytime the key is on. Won't dim with the dash lights, but not a major concern for me. It just prevents me from having to splice into another circuit.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,243 Posts
Thank you for that information. I did not know that about the transmitters. I may undertake this job very soon.

Sent from my last surviving brain cell
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,646 Posts
Very nice write-up!

Was getting tired of my big bulky remote that was velcro'd to the overhead console...
I velcro'd my remote inside the pocket in the driver's door. There's a vertical area behind the pocket where you can attach it and it's totally hidden, I just reach my fingers in there and press. Really easy, works great, but not quite as cool as retrofitting the HL module.
 

·
Epic Beard Man
Joined
·
5,389 Posts
Link to the sunroof version is in my sig.

IIRC, I tapped into the map light circuit, because the opener will work without the car on. That said, if it goes into sleep mode after sitting for the weekend or so, it won't work until you start it (and neither will the lights).
 
  • Like
Reactions: Merc6

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Link to the sunroof version is in my sig.

IIRC, I tapped into the map light circuit, because the opener will work without the car on. That said, if it goes into sleep mode after sitting for the weekend or so, it won't work until you start it (and neither will the lights).
Good to know if I can't find another source of power. Thanks for the original write up. It's what got me going on this project.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, broke down and paid the $20 to access the AC Delco Tech site. Looks like my best option for power is from the auto dimming rearview mirror. This circuit is fed directly from the ignition main relay. Wire colors are VT/WH for the power and BK for the ground. Opener will have power only when the key is in the run position.

Other option could be from the from the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver. However this circuit is fed through the BCM and not sure if this could cause any other problems. I believe this would give me power at all times, but not sure if there may be some sort of lock-out when the car is in motion. Wire colors here would be GY/WH for power and GY for ground.

Now for those with the sunroof you can't go off of the switches. They are routed through a control module. You must use the RD/WH power and the BK ground going to the module.

Should get some time this weekend to finish up with the connections, and then it is on to programing.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
25,596 Posts
sgancarz, for those of us without the auto-dimming mirrors, can we use the On-Star power for this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
sgancarz, for those of us without the auto-dimming mirrors, can we use the On-Star power for this?
The OnStar wiring in the mirror does not actually have any direct power. All circuits in the mirror are routed through the Telematics Communications Interface Control Module. Connecting to those wires may cause problems with the OnStar functions. If you were to try to connect there you would want to use the GN/BK wire for your power. The schematic shows this as a 10v power coming out of the module and feeding the LED's and switching circuit in the mirror. The BK wire would be your ground.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
I just ordered one, as well. It should arrive next Monday, the 25th. This'll be a fun project for the weekend after Thanksgiving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
689 Posts
I wanted to do this when I first bought my 2012. But now any extra time tinkering with a car is with my 73 Mustang vert.

For me it's a project 2.5 years to late, but still a great project.

Good job!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
850 Posts
Just a note, but the cars I have owned with homelink all worked even if the car was off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Well finally got back to the project. Trying to tap into the wiring harness is a little harder than I would have thought. The wiring harness is actually glued down to the headliner. So not so easy to pull back for clear access. I decided it would be best to access the harness back away from the plug area as it will make for a cleaner installation. So I looked for the easiest area to pull the harness away from the glue.

The ends of the harness are covered with the cloth covered tape, however further back on the harness uses the typical vinyl tape. I targeted the area behind the overhead console. In this area the wiring harness runs across the corners of the recess in the headliner where it could not be glued. This allowed me to get under the harness and pull about 6 inches of harness away from the glue. Also with the vinyl tape in this area it was able to tear away from the harness where the glue would not let go.



Here you can see the exposed wires. I am targeting the Purple/White wire and one of the black wires. Now I need to hit the junk yard an get some matching wire. Once I have tapped into the harness I will tape back up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just a note, but the cars I have owned with homelink all worked even if the car was off.
Unfortunately there is not a circuit in the headliner that uses direct battery power without going through the rundown protection. If you read Sunline Fan's post you can see the effect of tapping into these circuits. This would then need a run all the way back to the fuse box (which is more work than I want to do). Plus the unit I have has illumination in it which would be on all the time as well.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top