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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay guys, when receiving the MINIDSP and DC Isolator the instructions dont say how to connect the Isolator to the DSP. It does however give you a simple wiring diagram. After studying it for a while I found out you actually need to add an 18 gauge/ 2 conductor wire in between them to get power form the Isolator to the DSP. So, from the PAC LOC, the yellow wire spliced into the yellow wire in pin#44 and the another splicing into the +12v input into the Isolator and the ground (blue/black) spliced to a ground screw in the passenger floor board and then another splicing to the GND in the Isolator. These are the terminals with 4 terminal spots. The other two are for the remote in and remote out for the amp. From here you'll run the 18/2 wire from the 2 terminal side of the Isolator to the +12v and GND on the DSP.

So after I did all this everything was working fine but I was hearing a little static so I decided to try and add the extra GND from the PAC LOC to my GND splice. I ended up touching the remote in terminal with the ground and now the DC Isolator has no voltage on the output and my amp no longer comes on. :( I checked voltage on the amp and had 13v on the battery cable and 2v on the remote and no voltage on the speaker wires.

Can anyone help? I'm so confused at this point. IDK if i fried my amp and DC Isolator or what, but any feedback would help.
 

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Reads as if you shorted that DC Isolator out .
 
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What brian said. Doesn't take much. Does the DSP have a fuse? I've never seen it so I am just asking. I highly doubt it does. If you're lucky you might be able to return it under warranty? :question:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That's what I originally thought so I bypassed it to send power straight to the DSP and still nothing out of the amp. Is it necessary to have the DC Isolator or I would think in theory it would still power up the DSP and send remote power to the amp, I'd just have to wait to turn up the volume so the amp wouldnt get a surge of power
 
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