What do you get from swapping? I am not sure what the differences are. I'd be interested in seeing a side by side if you have one. I'm looking at ripping the dash apart later this year for other reasons and this may be something I would look at as well.Is it possible to swap out instrument panels, say an LT without RS package with an RS/LTZ one without having to have anything reprogrammed? Is everything stored in the car itself like mileage or is it in the cluster?:icon_scratch:
I know one difference is it has chrome rings around the cluster instead of the silver ones, but I also read that it has brighter or more defined gauge faces, like the 'glass'on the trim is more transparent. Considering clusters arent going for that much, it wouldnt be a bad swap.What do you get from swapping? I am not sure what the differences are. I'd be interested in seeing a side by side if you have one. I'm looking at ripping the dash apart later this year for other reasons and this may be something I would look at as well.
I've done this mod myself. There is chrome rings and there's clear plastic on the sides instead of black solid plastic. Nothing different with the lights. In order to do the mod, you get the new cluster, and take off the fascia of it and put it onto your old cluster. Plugging in just the new cluster resulted in a mileage showing "000000". It's EXTREMELY easy to do, so just go ahead and get-er-done.Is it possible to swap out instrument panels, say an LT without RS package with an RS/LTZ one without having to have anything reprogrammed? Is everything stored in the car itself like mileage or is it in the cluster?:icon_scratch:
Finished a new mod today. RS cluster conversion.
Was a fun time seeing there were weird angles to get the bolts out.
Only tools needed, for me at least.
Level of difficulty is probably 5 or 6 but patience level is 8 or 9.
1st I had to source a set of RS gauges
They could, or could not for all I know even power on. The set I had included a security seal for warranty purposes. When I took the seal off the housing underneath was damaged to the point removing the sticker broke the structural integrity of the bottom where it bolts into the car. Still on the fence if I'm even going to reveal the seller at this point even tho I lucked out an the only part of the cluster that wasn't broken is the parts I needed.
Point is, I only needed this section of the gauges to complete the swap while retaining the cluster I already have for accurate mileage and simplicity.
This would be what most people already have on the non RS set. (red is from the dip in 1st page of this thread)
At the same time, if you scratched the mess out of your gauges trying to remove the wheel to dip/vinyl. you also have this clear plastic piece left over from the donor cluster.
Once you remove the tabs for just the clear bezel/chrome ring, you can now go to your car and get ready for tear down.
The upper piece just snaps on but be careful as this is the patience is needed. I gently pulled up at the loops where the turn sig and wipers stalks sit. Interior pieces come apart but don't necessarily come apart and go back right depending on how violent you remove it. Reason my donor gauges are broke in areas I couldn't even reuse it as a direct swap because whoever removed it didn't care about them going back into another vehicle upon removal.
Underneath that piece is 2 bolts we need to remove(most damaged part of my gauges)
This is where the patience young grasshopper part comes in. These bolts are the Devil.
That's where you need the angle tool to remove them. Puling the wheel out and down is best angle to get to them.
Top of this you want to gently starting from the back lift up gently and rotate towards you like a door hinge.
Then you only need to remove the top 3 center bolts of the 6 pictured.
After that the 5 bolts (3 center top and 2 bottom under faux leather strip) holding the cluster should now allow it to come out.
I didn't take pics after this as it was 11*F out but the connector for the gauges is a press down and rotate up tab. no tools was needed just patience.
Once out, the next 3 bolts on the top can come out. The ones on the bottom row of the picture
From there this thread will help you separate the pieces. I was able to gently use my fingers and finger nail to release the tabs so that's how fragile this could be. patience is there because the angle you sit to remove the gauges kinds sucks. You are sitting down but you are leaning forward a bit over the wheel putting stress on your back. On the RS it's confusing but on the Non RS the black tabs are the ones you take off...
When it goes back in reverse order, look at the tabs on the bottom and here plus the lip to get an idea how it goes back on. Picture was to show the tabs, don't install it like this. the lip at the top slides into the top of the gauges then it rotates down opposite of the glove box on the dash.
The lighting is actually the same for both clusters, the uplevel cluster appears more bright and colorful because of the clear plastic edges it has (instead of solid black) and it casues the backlight to reflect and refract upon itself which makes it look much much nicer.This Post shows a side by side on the last post entry:
Looks like the difference includes both the Chrome rims and colorful ambiance lighting
I just performed the bezel ring/surround swap on my Eco using a donor LTZ/RS panel I found on Ebay. I'm still using the original guts from my car, just swapped out the gauge "glass", translucent bezel and chrome trim rings. I did have to take the panel out of the car to do that, and I learned a few things.Is it possible to swap out instrument panels, say an LT without RS package with an RS/LTZ one without having to have anything reprogrammed? Is everything stored in the car itself like mileage or is it in the cluster?:icon_scratch:
Exact same process. Chrome rings do pop off all as one. You’d have to take the cluster apart to get the translucent sides too.Has anyone tried this on an LS? I have a 12 LS and was looking to swap the translucent sides and chrome ring. If anything, I was wondering if just the chrome ring is an easy pop and swap?
Yes and no. Diesel has ultra sulfer fuel on fuel needle and a way lower redline.Yes, LTZ, RS, and Diesel, all have the same "uplevel" cluster.
Same process as I had on 1st page will work. My silver rings were about to break so I swapped the whole black to clear section with it. The price of a GM chrome ring cluster vs the eBay ones that the chrome flakes off in a few months was close in price. These new eBay dealers are selling you the cluster and changing the miles and vin for way more last I looked.Has anyone tried this on an LS? I have a 12 LS and was looking to swap the translucent sides and chrome ring. If anything, I was wondering if just the chrome ring is an easy pop and swap?