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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody else noticing paint chips from pebbles being thrown off the front tires onto the rear doors? (bottom corner just above the rocker-panels). Is it bad design or just cheap-ass stock tires?:confused:
 

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...first, do a search here and then read what others have reported about this problem.

...then, rethink what you think about the "tires" being the cause.
 

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I have driven on salted/sanded roads many times this past winter with no paint chips.
 

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Design. not the tires. I have same problem. Had some mud flaps put on they were so small they did not help. GM is repainting the car and installing larger mud flaps at their cost.
 

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I know there is a few of us having this happen and alot are not. I am wondering if it is just one model of the Cruze or not. What model are you driving mine is a 2011 LS.
 

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I see a few chips on the driver side of my Eco. I think it might be the door set in too far (not flush) leaving that edge sticking out slightly. I will see if the dealer can put some protection on there.
 

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Mine is the LTZ RS with no paint chip problems.
 

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Man you guys are making me so nervous....My wife is about ready to kill me as I keep wanting to go and put the clear rock guard on the back doors....I have ordered mudflaps and I hope those do the trick...cause I sure don't want chips on the back doors at all
 

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I don't have chips (salt on the road but no/little gravel), but I have noticed all the grime-salt-dirt that collects on the sheet metal inside when you open the door. This does not get removed at the car wash so it becomes a potential rust spot.
 

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To end paint chip problems

Hi all here's what's going on. I experienced the paint chip problems on my LT 2 took the car in had the mud flaps put on and some 3m on affected area. I then contacted GM Canada and reported my issue. I then returned to my dealer( whom Im very happy with) had the service managar look at my car only to find out that my doors should be adjusted as they stick in to far to allow the rocks to chip the paint. My car will be going in soon for repairs and corrective action.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Paint chips

I know there is a few of us having this happen and alot are not. I am wondering if it is just one model of the Cruze or not. What model are you driving mine is a 2011 LS.
I also have an LS model. Black granite metallic
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi all here's what's going on. I experienced the paint chip problems on my LT 2 took the car in had the mud flaps put on and some 3m on affected area. I then contacted GM Canada and reported my issue. I then returned to my dealer( whom Im very happy with) had the service managar look at my car only to find out that my doors should be adjusted as they stick in to far to allow the rocks to chip the paint. My car will be going in soon for repairs and corrective action.
WTF!!! I already brought this car in to re-align the rear bumper (no charge). Now I have to go back and have the doors adjusted? If my steering wheel falls off I'm gonna snap.:mad:
 

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same thing has happened to me the rear door was in too far leaving the edge exposed causing rock chips to it to the dealer the realigned the door and painted the chipped areas
 

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same here, i have a ltz rs and i haven't noticed this problem yet....guess i gotta pay more attention tommorow when I open my garage lol

thanks for the heads up guys!

Mine is the LTZ RS with no paint chip problems.
 

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same here, i have a ltz rs and i haven't noticed this problem yet....guess i gotta pay more attention tommorow when I open my garage lol

thanks for the heads up guys!
I did notice a chip in my LTZ RS yesterday on the driver side. The rear door is underflush to the bodyside a little bit so I am going to adjust the striker to get that a bit outboard. I will probably go .5mm overflush and see if that stops the chip condition. That is the only door where I have closure effort issues as well. My daughter typically has to take a second attempt at closing the door. So adjusting the striker will also alleviate the DCE problem as well. I will have to keep an ear out for added noise, but I dont think it will be a problem.
 

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^ By the sounds of things, it is the leading edge of the rear fender that is being chipped away. If the rear edge of the rear doors is a bit too far inwards it will expose the leading edge of the rear fender. If this happens the road debris kicked up by the front tires will hit the leading edge of the rear fender head on, instead of being gradually deflected outwards by the shape of the rear door. A relatively thin 1" piece of Paint Protection Film wrapped around that leading fender edge would be enough to protect it from all but the largest road debris.

The rear door is underflush to the bodyside a little bit so I am going to adjust the striker to get that a bit outboard. I will probably go .5mm overflush and see if that stops the chip condition. That is the only door where I have closure effort issues as well. My daughter typically has to take a second attempt at closing the door. So adjusting the striker will also alleviate the DCE problem as well. I will have to keep an ear out for added noise, but I dont think it will be a problem.
My friend, do you or did you at one time work in a Car Assembly Plant? :)

One of two things can happen during the vehicle assembly process:

1. The strikers will be positioned on the body and tightened down while being held in a pre-determined spot by a fixture. This adjustment can be made to the fixture.

2. The strikers are not adjustable and the adjustment will be made by permanently deforming the striker (bending it) with a tool specifically made for this purpose. If the correction is needed on enough vehicles (it seems to be pretty common here) a shift in the manufacturing process will position the striker bolt recieving threads outboard by the required amount.

Your comments about door closing efforts seem to support this, though this inboard condition at the bottom of the door could be the result of correcting a fit issue at the middle/top of the door also... where cosmetics are concerned (like having the belt line moldings lined up perfectly) compromises are made all over the place.

On a new car I wouldn't be too concerned about noise unless you were making a MAJOR adjustment to the door position since the seals will not have taken a severe set yet. On an older vehicle this alteration could be enough to reduce seal contact and cause noise at speed.

I spent almost four years working as a Program Engineer inside GM representing a sealing supplier (Integrated Supplier) so I got to see many, many things that happen in CAPs that the general poulation are not aware of... Interesting indeed, and as the Design Engineer for the seals door closing efforts were at the top of my list during the launch of a vehicle. Next came operator ergonomics... :eek:
 

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^ By the sounds of things, it is the leading edge of the rear fender that is being chipped away. If the rear edge of the rear doors is a bit too far inwards it will expose the leading edge of the rear fender. If this happens the road debris kicked up by the front tires will hit the leading edge of the rear fender head on, instead of being gradually deflected outwards by the shape of the rear door. A relatively thin 1" piece of Paint Protection Film wrapped around that leading fender edge would be enough to protect it from all but the largest road debris.
I have some white vinyl left from doing my badge overlays....I am wondering if I put a 1nch strip along that edge might work just as good??
 
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