Is oil filter $8.44, $9.14 with tax is too high
Hi
I am going to change oil and filter. My car is 2012 cruze eco manual. I bought a oil filter at Walmart. It is FRAM extra guard, CH10246. It costs me $9.14, tax included. I am in Austin, TX. The tax rate here is 8%. Is it too expansive? I came from Honda Civic, I remember that Honda filter used to cost 4~6 dollars. Is there somewhere I could buy several filters cheaply?
Thanks for your help.
Dan
I am going to change oil and filter. My car is 2012 cruze eco manual. I bought a oil filter at Walmart. It is FRAM extra guard, CH10246. It costs me $9.14, tax included. I am in Austin, TX. The tax rate here is 8%. Is it too expansive? I came from Honda Civic, I remember that Honda filter used to cost 4~6 dollars. Is there somewhere I could buy several filters cheaply?
Thanks for your help.
Dan
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Joined
·
14,726 Posts
That is too expensive. As spacedout pointed out, the Wix filters are $6.xx apiece from rockauto. Get a bunch of them and use their 5% off coupon code. I ordered 10 and they won't last long since I have two 1.4L cars.
Joined
·
14,726 Posts
http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com
Click the "show code" button, and then paste that code into the "how did you hear about us" field during checkout.
Joined
·
2,240 Posts
didnt know you revolting against small rivers . GL with that one!
yes yes I know it was corny but it made me laugh
Joined
·
1,002 Posts
$6 and change at my dealer. Picking a few up tomorrow.
04 Cavalier stated these paper only oil filters were not only good for the environment, but far more economical. Former is certainly true, but a bit of sticker shock on the latter at the store.
Not a new idea either, cartridge paper only filters were used on many pre and post war II vehicles. But practically all of them had a drain on the canister so you wouldn't make a mess. Where is the drain on these things? Until someone got the brilliant idea of the screw on canister type. More junk for the recycling bin and land fills.
More than likely omitted the drain plug because someone will forget to put it back in. A whole new way of thinking. Now to get rid of that cap.
Not a new idea either, cartridge paper only filters were used on many pre and post war II vehicles. But practically all of them had a drain on the canister so you wouldn't make a mess. Where is the drain on these things? Until someone got the brilliant idea of the screw on canister type. More junk for the recycling bin and land fills.
More than likely omitted the drain plug because someone will forget to put it back in. A whole new way of thinking. Now to get rid of that cap.
The drain is built into the filter housing. I know this with great certainty after performing my most recent oil change with the wrong sequence of steps. When you unscrew the cap the oil held in the housing is allowed to drain into the pan. When I did it wrong last week I drained the oil pan, then reinstalled the drain plug and moved to the top to change the filter. As soon as I started unscrewing the cap I could hear the oil draining from the filter down into the motor. I then had to go back under the car and remove the drain plug a second time to get rid of the oil from the filter area.
I like the paper filter for another reason - it lets me visually inspect the pleats of the filter to see if any metal particles or other debris has accumulated. That is much harder to do with the metal canister filters. You need an oil filter cutting tool to remove the metal can.
I like the paper filter for another reason - it lets me visually inspect the pleats of the filter to see if any metal particles or other debris has accumulated. That is much harder to do with the metal canister filters. You need an oil filter cutting tool to remove the metal can.
Joined
·
211 Posts
Why has no one told this OP to not buy FRAM filters? Factory ACDelco, Wix, Purolator.... anything but FRAM.
Unless it's changed recently, the AC Delco and Wix are both made by Hengst and are made in either Germany or the US (I've seen both). I think Purolator has been bought by Mann+Hummel, not sure if their filter is another relabeled Hengst or if they're making their own. The Fram and Valvoline filters I've seen have all been marked Made in China, and paying more for a Chinese filter than an OEM one is nuts.
Order I use is first remove the valve cover oil fill cap, 2nd is loosen the cap on the oil filter, 3rd is to remove the crankcase drain plug.
At this time, most of the oil is drained from the filter, but still use a rag when I pull it out. Clean the interior of the oil filter housing, replace the filter and gasket, oil the gasket so it doesn't bind, torque to specs, replace the drain plug, then fill with the correct amount of oil.
I go about a half a quart low, take the car off the ramps, engine idling of course with a close eye on the oil lamp. And on level ground, check the oil, engine off of course, then fill it to the full mark on the dipstick. Run the engine again for several minutes, and check of any oil leaks.
Whoops one drop of oil on the shield, how did that get there, wipe that off.
At this time, most of the oil is drained from the filter, but still use a rag when I pull it out. Clean the interior of the oil filter housing, replace the filter and gasket, oil the gasket so it doesn't bind, torque to specs, replace the drain plug, then fill with the correct amount of oil.
I go about a half a quart low, take the car off the ramps, engine idling of course with a close eye on the oil lamp. And on level ground, check the oil, engine off of course, then fill it to the full mark on the dipstick. Run the engine again for several minutes, and check of any oil leaks.
Whoops one drop of oil on the shield, how did that get there, wipe that off.
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
