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vehicle overheated and shut off/ hose broke/ I replaced hose; now check engine light is on and radiator fan comes on full blast right when car is started and does not shut off.

After I replaced hose check engine light would not shut off so I took it in for diagnostic car was pulling these codes:
P112C (no description given)
P00C7 (no description given)
P0238- Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High
P0237-Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low
P0236-Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0135- Oxygen Sensor (02S) Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0134- Oxygen Sensor (02S) Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0132- Oxygen Sensor (02S) Circuit Very High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Unfortunately the shop wanted $849.46 to fix all of this mess and at this time I can't afford that.
So we replaced what the shop recommended in the quote which was:
Remove & Replace oxygen Sensor Rear ( We replaced 1 downstream 02 Sensor)
Remove & Replace oxygen Sensor Front ( We replaced 1 upstream 02 Sensor)

The shop also recommended we Remove & Replace Inlet Air Temperature Switch & Air Temp Intake pressure Sensor
I had difficulties locating exactly what they were recommending; we replaced the Air Intake/ Charge Temperature Sensor

I was hoping this would fix the car but it didn't. Upon starting the fan still kicks on immediately and loud and the check engine light is still on. I haven't gotten the chance to write down all the codes it is pulling now but a couple of them were something like heater resistance. I am starting to loose hope this car will ever be normal again.
 

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The P00C7 code is probably why they recommended replacing the MAP sensor (i.e. the intake air/pressure sensor). But it seems like these guys want to just replace sensors because of error codes, when they should have just diagnosed the problem.

So you said the vehicle overheated.. for how long? And was it only one time? I assume the overheating was caused by the leaking hose. Was it the upper or lower radiator hose, or a different hose?

If you look at your exhaust after the engine has warmed up, do you see any excessive smoke? If so, note the color.

Can you remove your spark plugs? If you don't have a spark plug socket, I would get one and take a look. If you find that one or more spark plug tips looks cleaner/very different from the others, then I would guess you have internal damage that's causing most of your error codes. It's possible you have a leaking head gasket due to the overheating, and now coolant is getting mixed in with the exhaust gases. That would cause O2 sensor codes. I'm not sure about the turbo-related codes, but it seems like you have a serious issue with the car. I would maybe risk $100 or so and take it to someone else who will hopefully perform better diagnostics. It's worth the $100 to know if your engine does have internal damage, because at that point, I think you can stop sinking money into it. Fixing internal engine damage is rarely worth it on a modern car.. thousands of dollars usually.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
vehicle overheated and shut off/ hose broke/ I replaced hose; now check engine light is on and radiator fan comes on full blast right when car is started and does not shut off.

After I replaced hose check engine light would not shut off so I took it in for diagnostic car was pulling these codes:
P112C (no description given)
P00C7 (no description given)
P0238- Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High
P0237-Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low
P0236-Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0135- Oxygen Sensor (02S) Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0134- Oxygen Sensor (02S) Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0132- Oxygen Sensor (02S) Circuit Very High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Unfortunately the shop wanted $849.46 to fix all of this mess and at this time I can't afford that.
So we replaced what the shop recommended in the quote which was:
Remove & Replace oxygen Sensor Rear ( We replaced 1 downstream 02 Sensor)
Remove & Replace oxygen Sensor Front ( We replaced 1 upstream 02 Sensor)

The shop also recommended we Remove & Replace Inlet Air Temperature Switch & Air Temp Intake pressure Sensor
I had difficulties locating exactly what they were recommending; we replaced the Air Intake/ Charge Temperature Sensor

I was hoping this would fix the car but it didn't. Upon starting the fan still kicks on immediately and loud and the check engine light is still on. I haven't gotten the chance to write down all the codes it is pulling now but a couple of them were something like heater resistance. I am starting to loose hope this car will ever be normal again.
UPDATE
New Codes after work stated above was complete-
P0237- (Came Up Twice) -Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low
P112C- Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input
P0236-Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
C0A00-
B2AAA-

Is there a Turbocharger Boost Sensor?

Does anyone know what the code B2AA & C0A00 is?

Also we installed a new air intake/charge temperature sensor but the car is still pulling the P112C code?
 

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UPDATE


Is there a Turbocharger Boost Sensor?

Does anyone know what the code B2AA & C0A00 is?

Also we installed a new air intake/charge temperature sensor but the car is still pulling the P112C code?
There is on the diesels, not sure what you have. The MAP sensor handles boost pressure and intake air temperature. It would appear to me that is causing all of your issues based on your CEL's.

If you had a scan tool you could easily monitor boost pressure and intake air temperature and you would probably see those values don't make sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The P00C7 code is probably why they recommended replacing the MAP sensor (i.e. the intake air/pressure sensor). But it seems like these guys want to just replace sensors because of error codes, when they should have just diagnosed the problem.

So you said the vehicle overheated.. for how long? And was it only one time? I assume the overheating was caused by the leaking hose. Was it the upper or lower radiator hose, or a different hose?

If you look at your exhaust after the engine has warmed up, do you see any excessive smoke? If so, note the color.

Can you remove your spark plugs? If you don't have a spark plug socket, I would get one and take a look. If you find that one or more spark plug tips looks cleaner/very different from the others, then I would guess you have internal damage that's causing most of your error codes. It's possible you have a leaking head gasket due to the overheating, and now coolant is getting mixed in with the exhaust gases. That would cause O2 sensor codes. I'm not sure about the turbo-related codes, but it seems like you have a serious issue with the car. I would maybe risk $100 or so and take it to someone else who will hopefully perform better diagnostics. It's worth the $100 to know if your engine does have internal damage, because at that point, I think you can stop sinking money into it. Fixing internal engine damage is rarely worth it on a modern car.. thousands of dollars usually.
So you said the vehicle overheated.. for how long?
im not exactly sure, I was driving down freeway had music up looked down to see car saying "Vehicle overheat Shutting down" It was only this one time it has ever overheated

The hose we replaced was "General Motors 95039026 HVAC Heater Hose/ aka inlet heater hose it goes to the firewall

I have not checked the exhaust or spark plugs.

I would take it in but no mechanic will actually tell me if it has internal damage or not, they just want me to keep sinking money into them. worst part is this car is not even paid off, I still owe like $4k.

I updated my original post with the new codes the car is pulling.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There is on the diesels, not sure what you have. The MAP sensor handles boost pressure and intake air temperature. It would appear to me that is causing all of your issues based on your CEL's.

If you had a scan tool you could easily monitor boost pressure and intake air temperature and you would probably see those values don't make sense.
my Cruze isn't diesel

what is MAP sensor?
 

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I would take it in but no mechanic will actually tell me if it has internal damage or not, they just want me to keep sinking money into them. worst part is this car is not even paid off, I still owe like $4k.
I would call a shop and just say "I think I might have a leaking head gasket due to an overheating issue I had. Can you do a leak-down test and tell me what you think?" I think if you just spend an hour of labor to have someone do a leak-down test, it's worth knowing either way. Good luck.
 

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There is on the diesels, not sure what you have. The MAP sensor handles boost pressure and intake air temperature. It would appear to me that is causing all of your issues based on your CEL's.

If you had a scan tool you could easily monitor boost pressure and intake air temperature and you would probably see those values don't make sense.
In simple terms, OBD II fault code B2AAA is a code that is sometimes displayed by some scanners or code readers when that particular scanner or code reader is programmed with an OBD II communication protocol that is incompatible with the OBD communication protocol in use on the affected application.
 

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my Cruze isn't diesel

what is MAP sensor?
Manifold Air Pressure. On the diesel it is a combined unit with the temp sensor. It will give you atmospheric, vacuum, and boost pressure. After checking Rockauto for the 1.4L turbo it appears its the same part #. I found a listing for both a turbo boost sensor and a manifold air pressure sensor. I wouldn't think there would be two but I'm not familiar with the gas engine. Both can read temperatures however. Perhaps your MAP/IAT (intake air temperature) sensor, if you have one, is also faulty resulting in the remaining P112C code. It would be installed directly on the intake manifold downstream of the throttle body is.

video showing replacement of the boost sensor. Is this what you changed?

ACDELCO 55567257
ACDELCO 55568175
 

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Is your engine still losing coolant after fixing the leak.. i.e are driving it? If so you have probably warped the cylinder head. Get the leak down test done at an independent shop.
 

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Is your engine still losing coolant after fixing the leak.. i.e are driving it? If so you have probably warped the cylinder head. Get the leak down test done at an independent shop.
For what it's worth,

If it was my car I would see if operating temps were normal after the fix, if yes,
2. Check oil to see if the color is milky/chocolate milk in color, if no
3. Check to see if coolant is milky, if no
4. Is exhaust when cold starting the car a thick white cloud that doesn't dissipate immediately. If no,
5. Is exhaust a thick white cloud while warm, if no.


If you answered the same as my questions then the car is fine. The safety shutdown stopped you from wrecking it.
 

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After I replaced hose check engine light would not shut off so I took it in for diagnostic car was pulling these codes:
P112C (no description given)
P00C7 (no description given)
P0238- Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High
P0237-Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low
P0236-Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0135- Oxygen Sensor (02S) Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0134- Oxygen Sensor (02S) Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0132- Oxygen Sensor (02S) Circuit Very High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P112C: CHEVROLET - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 3 Circuit Low Voltage
Possible causes:
Faulty Intake Air Temperature sensor
Intake Air Temperature sensor harness is open or shorted
Intake Air Temperature sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p112c_chevrolet.html

P00C7: Intake air pressure measurement system - multiple sensor correlation - Probably the MAP sensor though. (Also check your gas cap)

P0238 - Potential causes for this code to set are:
DTC鈥檚 related to intake air temperature sensor (IAT),
engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT),
or 5 volt reference Intermittent wiring problems
Faulty boost sensor "A"
Short circuit to voltage on sensor circuit
Faulty PCM
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0238

P0237 - Potential causes for this code to set are:
Faulty boost sensor "A"
Faulty turbocharger
Faulty PCM
Wiring problem
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0237

P0236 - Potential causes for this code to set are:
Vacuum supply
Pinched, collapsed or broken vacuum lines
Faulty control solenoid
Faulty PCM
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0236

A code P0135 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
O2 Heater element resistance is high Internal short or
open in the heater element
O2 heater circuit wiring high resistance open or short to ground in the wiring harness
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0135

P0134 - A code P0134 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Bad O2 (oxygen) sensor
Bad heater circuit in the O2 sensor Wiring or
connector to the sensor frayed / broken
Blown heater circuit fuse
Holes in the exhaust system
PCM failure
Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0134

P0132 - A code P0132 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The oxygen sensor heater circuit is shorted out
The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed (less likely)

Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0132
 

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For what it's worth,

If it was my car I would see if operating temps were normal after the fix, if yes,
2. Check oil to see if the color is milky/chocolate milk in color, if no
3. Check to see if coolant is milky, if no
4. Is exhaust when cold starting the car a thick white cloud that doesn't dissipate immediately. If no,
5. Is exhaust a thick white cloud while warm, if no.


If you answered the same as my questions then the car is fine. The safety shutdown stopped you from wrecking it.
Yeah, these are very simple tests you can do and they can often clarify the main problem much better than the ECM can. Rummaging through that many codes is futile imo.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Is your engine still losing coolant after fixing the leak.. i.e are driving it? If so you have probably warped the cylinder head. Get the leak down test done at an independent shop.
I haven't driven it since we replaced the hose other then to take it to the shop once to be diagnosed
 

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vehicle overheated and shut off/ hose broke/ I replaced hose; now check engine light is on and radiator fan comes on full blast right when car is started and does not shut off.

After I replaced hose check engine light would not shut off so I took it in for diagnostic car was pulling these codes:
P112C (no description given)
P00C7 (no description given)
P0238- Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High
P0237-Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low
P0236-Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0135- Oxygen Sensor (02S) Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0134- Oxygen Sensor (02S) Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0132- Oxygen Sensor (02S) Circuit Very High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Unfortunately the shop wanted $849.46 to fix all of this mess and at this time I can't afford that.
So we replaced what the shop recommended in the quote which was:
Remove & Replace oxygen Sensor Rear ( We replaced 1 downstream 02 Sensor)
Remove & Replace oxygen Sensor Front ( We replaced 1 upstream 02 Sensor)

The shop also recommended we Remove & Replace Inlet Air Temperature Switch & Air Temp Intake pressure Sensor
I had difficulties locating exactly what they were recommending; we replaced the Air Intake/ Charge Temperature Sensor

I was hoping this would fix the car but it didn't. Upon starting the fan still kicks on immediately and loud and the check engine light is still on. I haven't gotten the chance to write down all the codes it is pulling now but a couple of them were something like heater resistance. I am starting to loose hope this car will ever be normal again.
My 2016 was overheating at 42,000 miles... the water pump was bad, dealer replaced for free
 
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