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I presume it's a solid bar then, which is good for longevity.

The ZZP front bar I put on my brother's Buick a couple years ago was massively heavy.
 

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I'd be curious what kind of pattern those put out.
 

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All of the shock companies use a very thing layer of paint. Bilsteins holds up fairly well but is still pretty thin.
The paint on my brother's Koni yellow front struts was just thick enough to where it made for a very...tight installation onto the spindles. Had to run a scour pad on those surfaces to have a chance at it actually fitting.
 

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215/55R18 is an ODD size or at least it was when I was in the tire business.
I can honestly say I have never heard of a car running that size. That's extremely skinny/tall for an 18.

I'll bet it looks similar to the goofy-ass tire size the AWD Challengers run: a 235/55R19. They look absolutely silly on the car because of how tall and not-wide they are.
 

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It sure does. Odd nonetheless that's what they went with, but I'm sure it was partly for fuel economy that they went with a tire so narrow.
 

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Ah, yes, the pleasant experience that is removing the outer taillights, haha.
 
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I mean, they're not hard, just annoying to try and get the ball studs out (the towel trick helps a lot). My Cobalt has three or four nuts that hold the lights in (and it sounds like the Gen 2 sedans do, as well).
 

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Those look great! How bright are the lights?

Another member (nearby here - I bought the second set of stock lights for the Cruze, the ones that I had blacked out and are on the car now from him) had similar lights and...you can barely tell they're working. But those look similar, but a bit different and much brighter.
 

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Surprising, I think they're on par with the stock lights in terms of brightness even though the lenses are smoked. The lights are stamped DOT approved on the housings.
Yeah, @Jondaytona is who sold me the lights, and I remember he mentioned that when we were BSing in the parking lot when we met up to grab the lights. I think I actually saw his car a month or so ago (if it wasn't him - it was definitely his car). If I recall, he showed me them on and...you could barely tell they were on.

I'm glad to hear yours don't have that issue.
 

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Do you have smoked lenses too?
It really seems to really vary how bright those LEDs actually are in those style of lights, based on my aforementioned experience and your experience with them.
 
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Yep...remember the two very non-hidden bolts it took to get each Cobalt headlight out?

My brother's Buick and Mustang don't even require bolts at all. So goddamn easy.
 

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I don't remember having to take the bumper off on the Cobalt. I think your supposed too though.
Nope, you don't have to. Just the two bolts that hold each light into the car up top and the come right out. Then four more bolts and the buckets come out. I believe the headlights had to come out to get to the bolts/bracket that hold the bumper to the fenders.
 

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I had a couple of ours break (on the bumper side). Gorilla tape to the rescue!
 
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Looks great! Will be interested to see how the pattern ends up looking.
 

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Dropping the rear of the subframe is a pretty common method. Suggested on the Cobalt and my brother's Buick (neither of which I needed to drop), and necessary on the Cavalier.

You're probably going to want some pinch flange adapters for your jackstands, and have those supporting the car so that the subframe has the ability to drop.
 

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Cool - I've never actually used them, haha, but I genuinely hate using pinch flanges, though it's the only real way to jack up the Cruze or my Volt. My Volt will be interesting when I go to install the rear swaybar...I'm not entirely sure where my stands are going to go so I can drop the torsion beam down to pull the springs out. There are only cutouts for the jack in the side ground effects, and almost the entire underbody is covered for aero, so...it's gonna be interesting :unsure:
 

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The pinch welds were where we lifted 90% of cars when I worked in a shop.
Oh, no doubt - most are designed to be lifted there, and I know full-well how strong the joint is, as I've worked in body engineering since I got out of college. But I've also seen so many that are just folded right over from being lifted improperly (or in the wrong spot - jacking spots are specifically designed for jacking, so, you know, they don't do that), or, in cases like my brother's Buick, rusted to **** and just crunches up, that I prefer to jack up...anywhere else if possible. On the Buick, I jack up on the rear of the subframe (right by the bushings/bolts) in front, or the underbody rails (which are extremely strong) out back. The Cobalt is a magical vehicle and actually has four dedicated jacking pads...I wish all cars had that. The Camaro is easy - it has an enormous subframe that comes **** near halfway back in the car, so that's an easy spot to jack/support for the front, and the rear axle is great for the rear.

But on cars like the Cruze or Volt, that really is not possible, so I use a slotted adapter on my jack to straddle the pinch flange and keep it from bending. I'd prefer to buy like...three more...so I can have those on hand if I need to use my buddy's 2-post, as I really don't like them being lifted without the slot.
 

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And it's probably gonna drop another 1/4-1/2" once it settles.

When I put in my Hotchkis 2" drop springs in my Camaro it...didn't get any lower. :ROFLMAO:
 
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On yours? Very likely. I'm surprised it dropped it that far.
 
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