[JLL]

Updated Modifications List (As of 01/07/2023):

APPEARANCE MODS:
Custom Emblem: The Golden Bullet
ANZO USA Projector Headlights
6000K HID Kit (for low beams)
5000K Osram 80W Halogen bulbs (for high beams)
ANZO USA Smoked Tailights
F1R F103 18x8.5 +38 Wheels
245/40R18 93W Goodyear Eagle Sport All-Season Tires

SUSPENSION/BRAKE MODS:
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs
KONI Adjustable Sport Struts & Shocks
Camber Bolts
Whiteline 27 mm Front Stabilizer Bar
Whiteline 22 mm Rear Stabilizer Bar

ENGINE and DRIVETRAIN MODIFICATIONS:
Custom Tuned by Vermont Tuning
Motion Raceworks Dual Channel Ethanol Sensor Mount
-10 AN PTFE Fuel Line
Custom Air Intake
ZZP Intercooler Package
650cc Deatschwerks Fuel Injectors
Radium Engineering Fuel Pulse Damper
Deatschwerks 110mm Dual Filtration Fuel Filter
MSD Ignition Coil
NGK V-Power BRK7E Spark Plugs Gap ~0.025"
Custom 3" 304 Stainless Magnaflow Exhaust
Diamond Racing Forged Pistons
Custom Pauter X Beam 4340 Billet Connecting Rods
ZZP Head Studs

NEW CLINDER HEAD INCLUDING:
ZZP Stage 1 Performance Intake Camshaft
ZZP 72 Lbs Valve Springs
ZZP Titanium Valve Spring Retainers
New OEM Intake Camshaft for Exhaust Side
New Lifters
New Rocker Arms
New Valves
New Valve Stem Seals
TTR Polyurethane Front Engine Mount
TTR Polyurethane Rear Transmission Mount

Garrett G25-550 .49AR Turbocharger
Custom T25 Exhaust Manifold
RacerX Intake Manifold
ZZP 65mm Throttle Body
RacerX Fuel Rail
GFB Hybrid BOV
AEM E85 Rated High Pressure Fuel Pump
Griffin Maxcool Radiator 31" x 19" x 3"
Russell 15" Finned Tank Style Trans Cooler
GM LUJ/LUV Big 3 Wiring Kit

INTERIOR MODS:
ZZP Guage Pod Pillar
Aeroforce Interceptor Scan Guage
Autometer Sport Comp II Boost Guage.

Current Engine Compartment:






Original Post:

Today I thought I would get off the fence and start a build thread. I apologize, as I have never documented any of my mods previously so, I do not have many pictures. Before I get into my my current mods, I'd like to talk a little bit about my work space. I've heard a lot of people on this forum let a lack of space or a "shop" area detour them from performing moderate/significant modifications to their vehicles. I live in the second story of a duplex home in the city. For those in a similar environment, I wanted to let you know that it can be done.

This is my workspace:
View attachment 290282


It's basically a concrete pad where a garage once sat.

And this is my tool chest (also on the 2nd story):

View attachment 290283

The engine compartment as it sits now:

View attachment 290279

 

[JLL]

Whoooa, Boring??? -- You had me at tool chest !

Whenever I do go somewhere with more space, I'll need to get a bigger one. It is FULL. I some more things stored behind and around it.

Reserved this spot since I'm your favorite person here. Also to follow so I can tune in.

You are one of my favorite people on here, Thebigzeus.

 

[JLL]

Surprised you don’t have that Wastegate actuator yet. It was the most noticeable mod I did after a tune intake and downpipe.

I have the ZZP Wastegate Actuator but I'm going to install it on the new turbo.

 

[JLL]

Sounds like a fun project, JLL. Good luck with it.

Thanks

 

[JLL]

Good luck with the build tho, you should definitely put that thing on a dyno once everything is set.

Thanks.

I plan to. I may even make the 3 hour drive it up to ZZP and have them dyno tune it.

 

[JLL]

I’m 99% sure I’m going to go have ZZP do the valve springs and cam... and have an 18 hour drive! Going to wait until spring though, don’t want to get caught in a freak storm or something.

Wow....that's a drive. How much did they quote you to do the job?

 

[JLL]

Just about $1250... I can’t make it to them until spring but I called my local Chevy dealership and the cost is about $300 bucks more to do the same work, of course I’d be supplying the springs, retainers, etc. They are 10 miles away!

ZZP said they can do it in under 5 hours with the tool they designed, Chevy said about 2 days so I’m assuming that is pulling the head off but I’d better check.

Whoa.....for an additional $1200, I'll gladly do the work on my car myself. But I understand not everyone has the time to do that.

 

[JLL]

nice build man, a lot of the things you have on right now are on my to do list so I have a couple questions. I have the zzp gauge pod and the exact same boost gauge and throttle body spacer that you have, but I’m having a couple issues installing them. The pod fit in correctly with the gauge but as far as actually connecting the gauge I’m not really sure what to do. I’ve searched up a bunch of videos and I’m just a little confused. Since you have the exact same setup as me, how did you do it exactly?

Are you having issues physically connecting the boost line to the guage or the throttle body spacer or both?

Please be as specific as possible.

I connected the boost guage wiring/tubing with the pillar laying on the dash. Then I put the pillar up in the A-pillar with the guages installed and connected into the pillar.

 

[JLL]

16 valves and 32 very small retainers with the motor in the car doesn’t give me the fuzzies!

Magnets my friend. Magnets

 

[JLL]

I’m ordering the springs, titanium retainers and stage one cam tomorrow. I will probably bring it into the Chevy dealership to do the work late next week. Then I’m done!! (At least until I’m not done )

I didn't think ZZP was publicly selling cams yet??

 

[JLL]

I was planning on going with stage 2. I figure if I'm going to take both cams out I might as well replace both of them with a performance cam.

That's probably why they told me they weren't releasing information about them because I ask about stage 2.

I'm not going to buy anything cam wise until April/May.

The weather here in northern Indiana is too cold to work outside for long periods of time until then.

 

[JLL]

I just remember something that Tim mentioned in an email about the stage 2 cams.... he said it’s going to take a really big turbo to benefit from them but the V3 was perfect for the stage one cam...so I’m not sure but I don’t know if the V3 will be big enough!

I'll ask him before I buy.

 

[JLL]

I was ready to order the parts today and apparently their cams use a different cam tool then the factory ones do... so they aren’t shipping them until the tools are ready to ship with the cam.

That puts a wrench in my plans, I don’t know if the dealership will want to get that involved with it and they said a performance shop would be a better idea but trying to find a performance shop that will touch the 1.4 is going to be a stretch. Plus I have a limited time to get the work done before I have to return to work.

They said hopefully it’s a matter of days. Other than having BNR racing about 40 miles from me there are very few performance shop around where I live.

Gotcha. That's good to know.

 

[JLL]

He also said the V3 is good to mid to high two hundreds for horsepower.

I would imagine in a front wheel drive car, you wouldn't really want more power than that unless you were planning to race it.

 

[JLL]

I agree and I don’t have plans to race it, I don’t even know if there is a drag strip within 45 miles of me!

Unless the cam is worth more then 20-25 HP I’m starting to lean towards just doing the springs. I’ll pick up 7-10 HP from them and the last time we tuned the car I didn’t have the FMIC, ported intake manifold or fully catless exhaust so I’m pretty sure he can get more aggressive on the tune. The car is fast as it is now.

Actually from what I have read, the valve springs are only needed for high boost levels (above 22 psi) to prevent valve float. If your only running 20 psi you may not even need the valve springs. I know the Thebigzeus is running 22 psi on the stock turbo for awhile and he's fine.

 

[JLL]

Today, I've been reading about the humble spark plug. There's a LOT of information on this forum about them for a 93 octane gasoline setup. But there is very little information about them with an E85 setup.

Based on my research I've decided to try a NGK nickel/copper plug for 1,000 miles or so before I install the upgraded internals to see how they run.

I'll follow up with results.

 

[JLL]

I ordered a ZZP Stage 1 Performance Camshaft and got it in the mail yesterday. That got me thinking, why don't I build a performance head before I start the main build? That way it saves me down time when I start taking thing apart in the spring.

I ordered a bare cylinder head from GM. I already have the valve seals, upgraded springs, titanium retainers, rocker arms, lifters, and the cams. That just leaves valves and valve locks and I'll have a complete assembly.

That gave me another idea.....why not install upgraded valves while I'm at it? So, I contacted Manley Performance about custom valves. I will be sending them 1 stock intake valve and 1 stock exhaust valve so they can "copy" their basic dimensions and give me an estimate for upgraded valves.

I'll update with results once I have them. I'm expecting the estimate process to take a few weeks.

 

[JLL]

UPDATE: I wanted to talk about connecting rods today, in case anyone in the future is considering upgrading them. Upgraded Connecting rods for the LUJ are hard to come by these days. I have been in contacting ZZP on and off for the last 5 months about their $400 H beam connecting rods (BTW that's the same price as a set of stock I-beam connecting rods). They've been telling me that they are unsure if they can get them manufactured again. So, about a month ago, I ordered some K1 Forged H Beam Connecting Rods. I knew that these were discontinued so when I saw them I jumped at the chance to buy them. After 3 weeks of emails I was informed that my order wasn't going to be filled and I was refunded for my order.

For those of you who don't know what I'm talking about here's a graphic:

Today, I decided to order some custom made connecting rods from Pauter. These are an X Beam design made from 4340 Steel. Lead time is 4-6 weeks. The price tag: $980 Shipped.
I'll update again when I get them.

 

[JLL]

When you say upgraded, is that material and/or shape changes?

I'm going to send Manley, or maybe Ferrea, the valve samples and let them determine that. I'm assuming that the material could be improved upon since I'm going to be using a setup with greater spring force. As for the overall valve shape, I would hope GM put alot of effort into finding a design that works efficiently. But I'll see what the professional think.

Who knows? They may even tell me that the valves don't need an upgrade. The stock intake valve looks like steel coated in a black coating. But the stock exhaust valve looks like it's stainless steel or coated in stainless steel.
Although I find this scenario unlikely.

 

[JLL]

I did run across this pretty decent article:

Performance Valves - Engine Builder Magazine

The power that an engine produces depends to a large extent on how much air it flows. The larger the engine’s displacement in cubic inches, the more air it pumps with every stroke and the more horsepower it makes. Rpms also make power. In theory, doubling the engine’s speed doubles its power...

www.enginebuildermag.com

I ❤ EngineBuilder