I presume it's a solid bar then, which is good for longevity.
The ZZP front bar I put on my brother's Buick a couple years ago was massively heavy.
The ZZP front bar I put on my brother's Buick a couple years ago was massively heavy.
The paint on my brother's Koni yellow front struts was just thick enough to where it made for a very...tight installation onto the spindles. Had to run a scour pad on those surfaces to have a chance at it actually fitting.All of the shock companies use a very thing layer of paint. Bilsteins holds up fairly well but is still pretty thin.
I can honestly say I have never heard of a car running that size. That's extremely skinny/tall for an 18.215/55R18 is an ODD size or at least it was when I was in the tire business.
Yeah, @Jondaytona is who sold me the lights, and I remember he mentioned that when we were BSing in the parking lot when we met up to grab the lights. I think I actually saw his car a month or so ago (if it wasn't him - it was definitely his car). If I recall, he showed me them on and...you could barely tell they were on.Surprising, I think they're on par with the stock lights in terms of brightness even though the lenses are smoked. The lights are stamped DOT approved on the housings.
It really seems to really vary how bright those LEDs actually are in those style of lights, based on my aforementioned experience and your experience with them.Do you have smoked lenses too?
Nope, you don't have to. Just the two bolts that hold each light into the car up top and the come right out. Then four more bolts and the buckets come out. I believe the headlights had to come out to get to the bolts/bracket that hold the bumper to the fenders.I don't remember having to take the bumper off on the Cobalt. I think your supposed too though.
Oh, no doubt - most are designed to be lifted there, and I know full-well how strong the joint is, as I've worked in body engineering since I got out of college. But I've also seen so many that are just folded right over from being lifted improperly (or in the wrong spot - jacking spots are specifically designed for jacking, so, you know, they don't do that), or, in cases like my brother's Buick, rusted to **** and just crunches up, that I prefer to jack up...anywhere else if possible. On the Buick, I jack up on the rear of the subframe (right by the bushings/bolts) in front, or the underbody rails (which are extremely strong) out back. The Cobalt is a magical vehicle and actually has four dedicated jacking pads...I wish all cars had that. The Camaro is easy - it has an enormous subframe that comes **** near halfway back in the car, so that's an easy spot to jack/support for the front, and the rear axle is great for the rear.The pinch welds were where we lifted 90% of cars when I worked in a shop.