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JLL's: The Golden Bullet

107859 Views 1202 Replies 30 Participants Last post by  MP81
Updated Modifications List (As of 04/17/2023):

APPEARANCE MODS:

Custom Emblem: The Golden Bullet
ANZO USA Projector Headlights
6000K HID Kit (for low beams)
5000K Osram 80W Halogen bulbs (for high beams)
ANZO USA Smoked Tailights
F1R F103 18x8.5 +38 Wheels
245/40R18 93W Goodyear Eagle Sport All-Season Tires

SUSPENSION/BRAKE MODS:
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs
KONI Adjustable Sport Struts & Shocks
Camber Bolts
Whiteline 27 mm Front Stabilizer Bar
Whiteline 22 mm Rear Stabilizer Bar

ENGINE and DRIVETRAIN MODIFICATIONS:
Custom Tuned by Vermont Tuning
Motion Raceworks Dual Channel Ethanol Sensor Mount
-10 AN PTFE Fuel Line
Custom Air Intake
ZZP Intercooler Package
650cc Deatschwerks Fuel Injectors
Radium Engineering Fuel Pulse Damper
Deatschwerks 110mm Dual Filtration Fuel Filter
MSD Ignition Coil
NGK V-Power BRK7E Spark Plugs Gap ~0.025"
Custom 3" 304 Stainless Magnaflow Exhaust
Diamond Racing Forged Pistons
Custom Pauter X Beam 4340 Billet Connecting Rods
ZZP Head Studs

NEW CLINDER HEAD INCLUDING:
ZZP Stage 1 Performance Intake Camshaft
ZZP 72 Lbs Valve Springs
ZZP Titanium Valve Spring Retainers
New OEM Intake Camshaft for Exhaust Side
New Lifters
New Rocker Arms
New Valves
New Valve Stem Seals
TTR Polyurethane Front Engine Mount
TTR Polyurethane Rear Transmission Mount

Garrett G25-550 .49AR Turbocharger
Custom T25 Exhaust Manifold
RacerX Intake Manifold
ZZP 65mm Throttle Body
RacerX Fuel Rail
GFB Hybrid BOV
AEM E85 Rated High Pressure Fuel Pump
Griffin Maxcool Radiator 31" x 19" x 3"
Russell 15" Finned Tank Style Trans Cooler
GM LUJ/LUV Big 3 Wiring Kit

INTERIOR MODS:
ZZP Guage Pod Pillar
Aeroforce Interceptor Scan Guage
Autometer Sport Comp II Boost Guage.

Engine Compartment April 2023:
Car Vehicle Grille Hood Automotive lighting









Original Post:

Today I thought I would get off the fence and start a build thread. I apologize, as I have never documented any of my mods previously so, I do not have many pictures. Before I get into my my current mods, I'd like to talk a little bit about my work space. I've heard a lot of people on this forum let a lack of space or a "shop" area detour them from performing moderate/significant modifications to their vehicles. I live in the second story of a duplex home in the city. For those in a similar environment, I wanted to let you know that it can be done. My workspace a concrete pad where a garage once sat.
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I'm surprised it didn't come with new ones with it being that drastic.

Are these Sportlines or the Pro-kit?
The only spring Eibach makes for Cruze is the Pro-Kit. I had Sportlines on my Cobalt and the directions that came with it had me cut the bumpstops. According to Eibach the average drop for the Pro-Kit is 1.2" for the Cruze with the range being 1.0"-1.5".
Yeah, the Pro-Kit was never a huge drop - more focus on handling with a decent drop rather than only on the drop of the Sportlines...maybe it is only 1.5", but it just seems like more.
Well you need to start with full soft for a good while to break them in, then you can adjust them up. My brother is still on full-soft on his Mustang, and I installed those last year. He might be able to firm his up though.

His are super easy: all adjustment is on top of the strut/shock. I presume the Cruze has the shock adjustment down below?
My brother's said that somewhere. Been a year so I don't remember where.

Well that's a pain. His rear shocks have the adjustments right on top, in the trunk. A little annoying to get to, since you have to pull the carpet sides of the trunk out, but overall, not too bad.
The shocks in the Cruze are all external. The top goes into the rear quarter panel but doesn't actually enter the trunk.
Yeah, same as the Cobalt.
Yeah, you'll want to flip it. It works either way, but I ran into the same issue on my brother's Mustang.
2
Cobalt rear bar free hang like this as well??
Bolts right to the torsion beam. It's suuuuuper easy. But makes an insane impact - especially my 1.25" bar out back...just make sure you have grippy tires up front!

292980

292981
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Basically eliminates the flex between each side - the swaybar allows for your theory to happen.

It makes an enormous difference. My Cobalt will slide the ass out in turns, rather that understeering and pushing through them.
Oh, it's major. Then the swaybars will be another enormous improvement.

But ultimately, it'll all be tied together once you get some really sticky tires.
And what kind of super sticky summer tire are you planning to run on those delicious wheels?
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Hmm, I've had Direzza ZII's on my Cobalt for...this is the 8th year now. They first went on in 2014.

They're by far the best tire I've ever driven on, and while they're not good in heavier rain anymore due to the treadwear, I've never driven on a more confident tire in the rain due to the design - the rain channels had large tread paths that just shot the rain out the side. I was disappointed when they closed those off on the ZIII to chase after the extra tiny bit of performance the RE-71R gives you, albeit with far reduced hydroplaning resistance.

My ZIIs have that rain channel all but closed up now too and thus I'm not convinced I'll like the ZIIIs as much...but then again, I basically try and not drive the car in the rain so I don't have to wash it, so it might not be an issue anyway, though sometimes it does happen, because Michigan.
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Pretty much every spring is going to settle - the higher quality ones just don't sag over time. Eibach Sportlines are infamous for sagging after a number of years.

My factory springs in my '81 were sagging so bad that when I put in my 2" Hotchkis drop springs front and rear, the car may very well have gone up. And apparently that is not at all an uncommon occurrence on those cars.
I do not recommend picking up 2 or 3 of those boxes with your back (instead of your legs) and then pivoting (at your back) while doing so. You might throw your back out.

And if you do that and are in so much pain you can't drive the vehicle, definitely don't go into your basement and grab all four tires and bring those up and put those in the car, then go down, move said wheels and tires into the shop, then move the newly mounted wheel-tire-assemblies into the car and then definitely don't go grab your jack and swap said wheels and tires onto the car, and then move the other (heavier) wheels and tires into the basement.
Yeah, they're awkward to carry. I think, within their boxes (individual ones), our MSR 013s were probably about 20-25lbs a piece or so? That plus the wide grip required and stacking them, I threw my back out bad, had to have my wife drive to my buddy's shop to get them mounted. Probably all the "doing everything" after did not help. I still have issues to this day and that was back in 2015.
Sorry to hear that. I learned the correct way to handle wheels/tires when I worked for Goodyear. My rims are supposed to be 22 Lbs bare. Not too bad considering my 16" wheels are 19 lbs or so I've read.
Oh this wasn't necessarily not having learned, I just happened to be moving them into the car and wasn't paying attention. I lift four times a week (well, not for at least six months or so after this idiocy), so I know better. Could happen with any heavy box, though, they just happened to have wheels in them.

I have tire totes for all my wheels and tires - makes them much easier to carry up and down the stairs (generally two at a time).
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I roll them to my garage lol.. basement is for house stuff.. except turbos those can be in the house.. ohh and intercoolers and piping .. and new fuel injectors... wait how'd that engine stand and block get down there ...
I have six sets of wheels and tires in the basement and another set of just tires. :LOL:

Keeps them nice and conditioned, so it should preserve them a fair bit longer. Three of them are ours, two of them are my brother's, the last set of wheels and tires is off the Cavalier (two snows and two all-seasons).

And then all the factory suspension parts off my Camaro...and all the factory suspension parts off my brother's Mustang...most of the factory parts left (the ones I have left) off my Cobalt - engine, suspension and a full set of seats...still have some Cav parts...yeah I get reminded regularly how much **** I have. :ROFLMAO:
I sold a good amount of my factory parts from my Cobalt - people were really looking for some weird ****, and that helped me clear out some of it. Really need to sell the rest of it, though. I have no intention of selling the car - any of our cars - so I think what didn't sell kind of just moved with us and they've stayed in the basement since.

At one point, I had a buyer for my seats, but they strung me along for a month and then eventually admitted they didn't have the funds to buy them...wish they'd have just told me that in the first place.
Yeah, was kinda a bummer. Really don't need a second set of seats for the car anymore. They're black cloth and in great shape, but with how big my basement is, they're not really in my way, either.
I'm keeping a fair amount of stock components at the moment.. Probably scrap the exhasut ,manifold when I swap turbos as Im betting this one is about done .
Usually listing on eBay is free (unless they changed something) and you only pay a fee if it sells. You'd be surprised what people buy...

Someone bought the weird top half/resonator/giant thing of the stock Cobalt intake. They didn't even wait for the auction, they paid $10 extra for my Buy It Now price...and then I only had to ship it 45 minutes away.
I've seen beige/gold cars with black wheels (just plasti-dipped stock wheels) and not been a fan, but that combo is really, really working.
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