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JLL's: The Golden Bullet

107859 Views 1202 Replies 30 Participants Last post by  MP81
Updated Modifications List (As of 04/17/2023):

APPEARANCE MODS:

Custom Emblem: The Golden Bullet
ANZO USA Projector Headlights
6000K HID Kit (for low beams)
5000K Osram 80W Halogen bulbs (for high beams)
ANZO USA Smoked Tailights
F1R F103 18x8.5 +38 Wheels
245/40R18 93W Goodyear Eagle Sport All-Season Tires

SUSPENSION/BRAKE MODS:
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs
KONI Adjustable Sport Struts & Shocks
Camber Bolts
Whiteline 27 mm Front Stabilizer Bar
Whiteline 22 mm Rear Stabilizer Bar

ENGINE and DRIVETRAIN MODIFICATIONS:
Custom Tuned by Vermont Tuning
Motion Raceworks Dual Channel Ethanol Sensor Mount
-10 AN PTFE Fuel Line
Custom Air Intake
ZZP Intercooler Package
650cc Deatschwerks Fuel Injectors
Radium Engineering Fuel Pulse Damper
Deatschwerks 110mm Dual Filtration Fuel Filter
MSD Ignition Coil
NGK V-Power BRK7E Spark Plugs Gap ~0.025"
Custom 3" 304 Stainless Magnaflow Exhaust
Diamond Racing Forged Pistons
Custom Pauter X Beam 4340 Billet Connecting Rods
ZZP Head Studs

NEW CLINDER HEAD INCLUDING:
ZZP Stage 1 Performance Intake Camshaft
ZZP 72 Lbs Valve Springs
ZZP Titanium Valve Spring Retainers
New OEM Intake Camshaft for Exhaust Side
New Lifters
New Rocker Arms
New Valves
New Valve Stem Seals
TTR Polyurethane Front Engine Mount
TTR Polyurethane Rear Transmission Mount

Garrett G25-550 .49AR Turbocharger
Custom T25 Exhaust Manifold
RacerX Intake Manifold
ZZP 65mm Throttle Body
RacerX Fuel Rail
GFB Hybrid BOV
AEM E85 Rated High Pressure Fuel Pump
Griffin Maxcool Radiator 31" x 19" x 3"
Russell 15" Finned Tank Style Trans Cooler
GM LUJ/LUV Big 3 Wiring Kit

INTERIOR MODS:
ZZP Guage Pod Pillar
Aeroforce Interceptor Scan Guage
Autometer Sport Comp II Boost Guage.

Engine Compartment April 2023:
Car Vehicle Grille Hood Automotive lighting









Original Post:

Today I thought I would get off the fence and start a build thread. I apologize, as I have never documented any of my mods previously so, I do not have many pictures. Before I get into my my current mods, I'd like to talk a little bit about my work space. I've heard a lot of people on this forum let a lack of space or a "shop" area detour them from performing moderate/significant modifications to their vehicles. I live in the second story of a duplex home in the city. For those in a similar environment, I wanted to let you know that it can be done. My workspace a concrete pad where a garage once sat.
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ANOTHER UPDATE BEFORE APRIL 1ST:

I received word today that by the end of next week I should have, what I anticipate, are all of the parts and supplies needed for my build! :)
Awesome, once the machine work is done the real fun begins.
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UPDATE: As some of you know I only took a week off before coming back. But while I was gone I received my remanufactured cylinder head, shown below. The valves and valve seals were replaced by the machine shop that rebuilt the head. I'm replacing the valve springs, retainers, lifters, rocker arms, and cams. I'll also be replacing the exhaust studs, timing tensioner, and water outlet as well along with many other OE parts.

The head as it came out of the box:

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I've replaced the valve springs and retainers already. Before I get to the picture, (or "car porn" as my wife calls it), I would like to comment on the process. I know that there as several of you that have talked about wanting to install new valve springs but are intimidated by the process. This is understandable as ZZP "highly recommends" not removing the head to install valve springs. They even commented to me that: "They really can't be installed with the head off the vehicle. You'll have to return the head to the vehicle." This is FALSE. It is true that most valve spring compressors won't work on the LUJ head because of the design of the PCV passages, but there are those that will that aren't $300. If you have the ability to take the head off, you have the ability to change the valve springs. Personally, I can't imagine how frustrating it would be to replace the valve springs with the head ON the car, especially installing the valve locks (keepers). Feel free to ask questions if you have them. Now for some pictures.

The assembled stock springs:

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What came out:

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What's going in:

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ZZP valve springs and Titanium retainers installed:

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How nervous are you to reassemble everything?
How nervous are you to reassemble everything?
What exactly do you mean?
What exactly do you mean?
I mean isn't putting a head on a pretty big deal? Timinng, head gasket, etc.
I mean isn't putting a head on a pretty big deal? Timinng, head gasket, etc.
If you have the confidence, time, knowledge, and the correct tools, No.

It is more complicated than say, changing a water pump, but just like changing a water pump,, if you follow the procedure and take your time, it's no big deal. It does require some special tools that are to do the job.
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UPDATE: As some of you know I only took a week off before coming back. But while I was gone I received my remanufactured cylinder head, shown below. The valves and valve seals were replaced by the machine shop that rebuilt the head. I'm replacing the valve springs, retainers, lifters, rocker arms, and cams. I'll also be replacing the exhaust studs, timing tensioner, and water outlet as well along with many other OE parts.

So im curious as to how you replaced the rockers and lifters :LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL: and yes im giving ya a hard time :p and personally I'd rather do the springs with the head off as it gives the opportunity to inspect the seats and valves, stems , guides , and seals.
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That’s some good info ! I do have a couple questions. If one was to try to attempt with the head on the car, can the cams be removed without messing with the chain and gears ? I understand timing would need to be set after the install. Other, what did you use in the end to compress the springs ? Was it a proper tool or a DIY like I’ve seen on youtube

thanks
So im curious as to how you replaced the rockers and lifters :LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL: and yes im giving ya a hard time :p and personally I'd rather do the springs with the head off as it gives the opportunity to inspect the seats and valves, stems , guides , and seals.
That was the hardest part! ;)

For those of you who don't know, the rocker arms lift out and the lifters pull out with slightly more force.
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That’s some good info ! I do have a couple questions. If one was to try to attempt with the head on the car, can the cams be removed without messing with the chain and gears ? I understand timing would need to be set after the install. Other, what did you use in the end to compress the springs ? Was it a proper tool or a DIY like I’ve seen on youtube

thanks
On the LUJ, the spockets/cam phasers have to be unbolted from the cams, but the timing tool set allows you to leave the chain and cam phasers in place so you don't need to remove the timing cover and all the components. Here is an example picture, not my car btw. The picture is with the head removed, but it let's you see what I'm referring to:

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I used this compressor to remove the springs:

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Thanks much appreciated! That answered my question
That’s some good info ! I do have a couple questions. If one was to try to attempt with the head on the car, can the cams be removed without messing with the chain and gears ? I understand timing would need to be set after the install. Other, what did you use in the end to compress the springs ? Was it a proper tool or a DIY like I’ve seen on youtube

thanks
This article gives step by step instructions that a Chevy dealership would do it,you do need a special valve spring compressor tool that bolts to the head and has a threaded guide rod to hold the spring down, get the two very small spring keepers, then unscrew the guide rod and do the reverse to install the new ones ... the worse part is you have to but the tool that GM uses which about $260-280 on eBay. The springs are so small and deep into the head other overhead cam valve spring tools won’t work. The one special tool is number EN 50717 kit.

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Update: I have the new lifters, rocker arms, and camshafts installed in the head. I'm going to post some pictures that may seem redundant but I want to post them as reference. For those who don't know, with the ZZP stage 1 camshaft setup, the OEM Intake camshaft gets installed on the exhaust side while the ZZP stage 1 camshaft gets installed on the intake side.

This is a picture of the lifters and rocker arms in place on the right side, and just the lifters on the left side.
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This is the new OEM Intake camshaft that I purchased for the exhaust side.

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For installation, I put break in oil on the cam bearings and a LIGHT coating of assembly lube on the camshaft rollers and lobes. This is the assembly lube I'm using for most of my build.



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Here is the intake camshaft installed in the head.

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The ZZP camshaft cam in a shiny box:

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Once I opened the box, I found that it look almost identical to an OEM camshaft. "ZZP" is stamped on the side of the camshaft and the lobes have a noticeable larger profile.


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This is the head with the intake came installed on the left side and the lifters and rocker arms installed on the right side. After I installed each camshaft, as shown below, I installed the cam phasers bolt (included from ZZP) in the end of the camshaft to test the operation of the valvetrain. NOTE: These are torque to yield bolts, so I will need new ones when I put the head on the car.

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This is with both camshafts installed. The ZZP camshaft (intake) is on top and the OEM Intake camshaft (exhaust) is on the bottom.

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ZZP provides a timing tool for the camshaft ends to go along with the regular timing tools. The tool that ZZP provides replaces the long bar in the regular timing tool set.

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That's it for today. Feel free to ask questions if you have them.
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Interesting that it doesn't change the exhaust side of things...

You've probably said it before, but what are the camshaft specs stock intake to ZZP, as well as stock exhaust?
Interesting that it doesn't change the exhaust side of things...

You've probably said it before, but what are the camshaft specs stock intake to ZZP, as well as stock exhaust?
Honestly I'd have to ask ZZP. They say with the V3 it's a 10-15 HP increase. It does change the exhaust side of things because the stock intake cam get re-oriented and goes over to the exhaust side and is visably larger than the stock exhaust cam. How much, I don't know...

The only thing I have to show you is marketing this from ZZP: :LOL:

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Well that's definitely an interesting way to do things...use the intake for the exhaust and then bump up the intake. It does make sense though, based on the exhaust as is - you need a big turbo to take advantage of anything exhaust.

Looks like it has a bit more lift/duration going from the exhaust to the stock intake, and then the intake to ZZP intake has a tiny bit more lift but a fair amount more duration, at least just from what I can see looking at a picture.
Well that's definitely an interesting way to do things...use the intake for the exhaust and then bump up the intake. It does make sense though, based on the exhaust as is - you need a big turbo to take advantage of anything exhaust.

Looks like it has a bit more lift/duration going from the exhaust to the stock intake, and then the intake to ZZP intake has a tiny bit more lift but a fair amount more duration, at least just from what I can see looking at a picture.
ZZP supposedly has a stage 2 and stage 3 camshaft set in development. However realistically, I can't really see them selling well for a discontinued platform.
ZZP supposedly has a stage 2 and stage 3 camshaft set in development. However realistically, I can't really see them selling well for a discontinued platform.
You'd be surprised - the Cobalt hasn't been made for 11 years and it still has a healthy aftermarket/community.

Hell, even what ZZP started on, the 3800/W-Bodies, are still going strong. They actually just introduced a brand new set of their own Coilovers for the W-Bodies. My brother is seriously considering those for his '01 Century to go along with their big ZZP swaybars we already put on.
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You'd be surprised - the Cobalt hasn't been made for 11 years and it still has a healthy aftermarket/community.

Hell, even what ZZP started on, the 3800/W-Bodies, are still going strong. They actually just introduced a brand new set of their own Coilovers for the W-Bodies. My brother is seriously considering those for his '01 Century to go along with their big ZZP swaybars we already put on.
exactly what I was about to post. Tons of 3800 interest still.
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You'd be surprised - the Cobalt hasn't been made for 11 years and it still has a healthy aftermarket/community.

Hell, even what ZZP started on, the 3800/W-Bodies, are still going strong. They actually just introduced a brand new set of their own Coilovers for the W-Bodies. My brother is seriously considering those for his '01 Century to go along with their big ZZP swaybars we already put on.
I guess that is true. That's how I found ZZP in 2003. I put one of their turbo kits on my 96 Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight. I had to do the tuning myself because no one supported the first year of OBDII.
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