Same here. Mine is $900/yr but I'm in the Detroit area which has the highest insurance rates in the country.One more thing, why is insurance so freaking expensive on this car? Its a 4 door 1.4L engine. I'm 39 years old with nothing on my record and pay $117 a month with my 30% off for bundling with our other car and RV.
Don't really need a boost gauge; get a Bluetooth OBDII Scan tool and put the Torque App on your phone. Gives you real-time boost pressures, etc.. A Bluetooth scan tool is ~$25 on Amazon and the Torque app is free. Works as well as a gauge IMO.Thank you! I found a thread on it with links to replacement parts from amazon, $40 total I think.
Any idea on the P0299? Probably should get a boost gauge to see if it is loosing pressure? could a solenoid go bad? bypass valve cause a p0299?
Thanks again
Borrowed my bosses bluetooth OBDII tool and installed the free torque app, it's an inexpensive tool that's great to have and can be swapped to other cars. Thought it was fun to just look at the data out of curiosity more than anything else. I used it to check for a bad O2 sensor on wife's Rav4.Don't really need a boost gauge; get a Bluetooth OBDII Scan tool and put the Torque App on your phone. Gives you real-time boost pressures, etc.. A Bluetooth scan tool is ~$25 on Amazon and the Torque app is free. Works as well as a gauge IMO.
Boost pressures should run in the 9 to 12 psi range depending on the temperature an humidity. I haven't seen mine max out at less than 9 psi with stock tune.
Borrowed my bosses bluetooth OBDII tool and installed the free torque app, it's an inexpensive tool that's great to have and can be swapped to other cars. Thought it was fun to just look at the data out of curiosity more than anything else. I used it to check for a bad O2 sensor on wife's Rav4.
Used they look to be around $400, New $500. Wouldn't it better to just go new? ANy link to the part number for the new oil line?I'd just try to find a turbo from a low-mileage wrecked car. Not something I'd pay for new.
Order the updated oil feed line to go along with it.
Really? I've seen them for $150-200 at LKQ. At that price, yes, it would be better to go new.Used they look to be around $400, New $500. Wouldn't it better to just go new? ANy link to the part number for the new oil line?
Just took the car on a 1000 mile trip this week for the holiday. 40mpg avg. Only problem was no power to pass anyone on the interstate. Otherwise it ran fine.
Were you able to read the miles since last code clear before you cleared it the first time? I hope so.. if not it's hard to tell if the seller was trying to hide this issue or not. When I bought my now prior used 2015 Cruze Diesel, I almost got burned.. the car threw a code a couple of days after I got it.. and when I read the miles since clear, it did not line up well with the available service records, and the selling dealership acted ignorant, saying the last service was just LOF (lube, oil, filter).. turns out that was a LIE. I managed to get the servicing dealership (not the selling dealership) to tell me what really happened.. they had an idiot fill the Diesel car with gasoline, and the servicing dealership had to purge all the fuel lines, replace filter.. and the codes were the normal codes for the engine crying for help trying to run on gasoline.. thankfully it appeared to have done no long term damage, and the code I got was not related and was spurious and did not return (it was low boost pressure).View attachment 247145 View attachment 247153 First photo shows the coolant leak. I don't see any vacuum line issues. I reset the CEL yesterday and it came back on again today.
