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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just finished installing the new front brakes on my 2011 Cruze 2LT! Was a little premature on the replacement but the rotors had some real bad hot spots so I decided to do it sooner rather than later. The job was pretty easy to do with the exception of the bolts that hold the rotor bracket and pads on, idk how GM installed those things but it took everything in me to break them loose (if you've done rotors on this car you know what I'm talking about!!). Overall I'm happy with the results so far, ill report back after a few miles and let everyone know what I think!


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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Is there a proper way to reinstall bolts that have been originally installed this way or is some lock-tight and a ratchet enough?


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I know imma get to see them tomorrow but, PICS MAN!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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FYI, automotive manufacturers have being using torque to yield fasteners on most chassis and engine components since the industry was created... It's been the standard for them and many other industrial applications (skyscrapers, ships, etc) when it comes to proper clamping strength and the ability to resist vibrations. The only thing that has really changed is the technologies that allow for more accurate measurement (bolt stretch and assembly lubes).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good to know. I didn't have a torque wrench small enough to get into the fender well and into where the break bolts were so I went ahead and got them tight and went another quarter -half turn on everything that I took off. Is this acceptable?


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I also couldn't find torque specs for any of the break bolts...


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I used the hawk HPS in a different application, had squeaking/squealing and insane dust, but very good performance. I got 60K miles out of them because they were tougher than the rotors, lol.

Please report back after a few thousand miles with results on the Cruze!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you for the specs! Given the way that I installed them: tight + 1/4 to 1/2 turn, will I be okay or should I pick up a smaller torque wrench, take them back apart and torque to proper specs...?


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hoon: I will definitely report back! I read a lot of good reviews about the Hawk HPS pads which is why I went that route instead of the EBC pads so hopefully they hold up to the hype. I'm also looking forward to seeing how the EBC rotors do, I've never used their brake products but I know they make good quality parts!


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sounds good, I will leave them for now. I'm due to rotate the tires in about 1800 miles so I will check everything then to make sure there isn't any unusual wear or visual issues. Thank you for your help!


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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do they make a lot of noise thats my only concern.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So far they're quieter and smoother than stock but ill have to break them in some more and let you know!


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I acually have a question my boss didn't really say yay ot nay. Would it be safe to use stock pads and rotors dd then swap to slotted rotors and performance pads at the track. Do y'all think there might be a downside to thia idea.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Aside from an appreciable amount of time involved in swapping them out frequently (took me almost 2 hours to do mine, granted that's on the longer end of the spectrum) and potential wear and tear associated with regular disassembly and reassembly I don't see and major issues with doing this. My main question is why wouldn't you just run the performance pads and rotors all the time?


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well i have to travel 400 miles to my autocross meets in Dallas , and almost the same distance to sandia raceway in new mexico.
addition: and if they do squeal i dont want that with everyday driving as i dont need better brakes for daily driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Gotcha, that makes sense. I don't see any reason why you couldn't change them out for races, I would just be careful to torque everything to spec and carry back up bolts just incase. The process is somewhat involved but I imagine if done frequently you could have it down to a relatively fast swap. 70AAR commented earlier in this thread that you SHOULD change out the bolts on the caliper and rotor bracket when servicing the system but I spoke to my dealership this morning and they don't stock the bolts nor do they change them out when doing break jobs so I think it is probably safe to use the original bolts a few times, again though I would stress proper torque each and every time if you're planning to swap them frequently. Hope this helps!


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Gotcha, that makes sense. I don't see any reason why you couldn't change them out for races, I would just be careful to torque everything to spec and carry back up bolts just incase. The process is somewhat involved but I imagine if done frequently you could have it down to a relatively fast swap. 70AAR commented earlier in this thread that you SHOULD change out the bolts on the caliper and rotor bracket when servicing the system but I spoke to my dealership this morning and they don't stock the bolts nor do they change them out when doing break jobs so I think it is probably safe to use the original bolts a few times, again though I would stress proper torque each and every time if you're planning to swap them frequently. Hope this helps!


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Yea u didn't think anything would happend and I always torque properly.

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