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Discussion Starter #21
Definitely something to consider that's also something you can do yourself But my problem was The little nipple on the intake manifold it was missing thats probly why I riginal I thought I needed the new Turbo that's what Chevrolet told me I got the Turbo replaced and it still did it then I bought a camera to look inside and the nipple was gone the Tech Did not do a proper diagnostic That's a well known Chevy Cruise Issue So my car the waste gate was shut to block off the Turbo because the Turbo shuts down when the light comes on P0299 so there was no cool air intake and because of that it damaged the exhaust manifold I just have my catalytic converter changed so hopefully that's not blown The intake manifold probly got a lot of bit warmer than normal so hopefully I can get the bolts off I would check the Waste gate disconnect the actuator and then Lift up the actual waiter arm a little bit when your engine is cold obviously see if you can move your Waste gate with your finger if you can your waste gate is good If you can't move it with your finger then your waste gate is badd My 2016 Chevrolet Cruze is going to be nearing 200000 miles The intake manifold should last a while mine didn't go until at least a 190000 miles But I have had 3 valve covers I get about one year out of a valve cover Right now my Turbo kind of gets stuck the waste gate so I'm going to change my Exhaust manifold Right now my car is boosting I'm sure it can't properly go up hills because of the damage to the waste gate but I can at least function I'm sure there's also a crack in it I can stick my camera and there and take a look but what's the sense I are really know what it's going to look like I'm gonna definitely stick my camera down there and see if my turbine is damaged so as long as my turbine is good exhaust manifold it is I'll tell you this looking codes up is not gonna work Because I look up p0299 number 1 thing it says waste gate But Onstar does a diagnostic and they say there's a problem with the air induction system please have serviced wait wait wait you said P0299 chevrolets codes are specific the air induction system that says it Air intake system That was my problem I'm looking up codes that are generic and that's what mechanics are doing but even though I told Chevrolet and my mechanic it's the air induction system they both said now and then I come to find out the nipple isn't in there so when I change it now I boost So if you want your codes for the vehicle to be specific I would definitely definitely go with The description of P0299 or any other code that On star Gives to you
That was painful without paragraphs or punctuation.

But would w pcv issue be intermittent and no codes
 

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What year a vehicle have you heard not throwing codes How many vehicles have you heard this about do you work at a dealer is that how you know that
 

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Sorry I'm using speech to text and I don't bother with punctuation but I'm sure it was very painful

I'll try and break things up a little more since I'm not using punctuation

White PVC is intermediate In my case it's definitely not A PVC being intermediate because I had And take manifold changed out and also my valve cover so I have a new diaphragm which did end up blowing out because my car was now boosting so it puts too much load on the vehicle over time and it can damage your diaphragm

But as a result if you have P0299 and it's not the waste gate it's going to damage the waste gate

What about your catalytic converter if your catalytic converter is not operating properly it will could still throw A P0299 if there slight damage to it I highly doubt that situation Because your 02 sensor would pick up on that

I changed every single sensor in my car so I know all the readings I'm getting are 100% accurate

You could change out all your sensors Just look on each sensor there's a Part number truthfully

EBay is the way to go it seems like

If you wanna check your purge valve just

Are you sure you don't have a leak and like your pistons because you're running higher pressure It could be leaking into the valve cover area which could be creating a higher pressure


What happens when you reset the light

Does it operate normal for a little while

Or does it just not work at all
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Still having a hard time understanding just what you are trying to say.

I DONT have a P0299 code when this happens most times, And when I do see a p0299 code pop up, it is just a freeze frame code and there are no real drivability issues. So therefore clearing code has no effect.

When the lack of power occurs, it usually happens for 15-30 minutes straight. And 99% of the time NO CODE is thrown. And the issues usually never go away on their own. The only fix I have found is to shut the car off and restart, Then its fine again up until it happens again.

The PCV check valve in the intake manifold is still there. It did not get sucked out and through the engine.

The diaphragm is NOT blown. There is NO vacuum leak at the little hole.

The plugs were changed 20k miles ago and regapped a few thousand ago. But I do not see how the plugs, or plug threads could cause an intermittent NO BOOST condition.

Nor do I see how the diaphragm or check valve for the PCV system would cause and intermittent problem either. They either work or they dont. And if they dont....they dont ALL the time. Not just randomly.

Which is why I believe it is either an electrical issue, or if mechanical it is related to a moving part. Thats usually the nature of intermittent issues. But I am leaning more torwards electrical since shutting car off and restarting usually solves any issues temporarily.

I have still yet to hear back from the dealer. Its been a few weeks. They were ordering turbo and necessary gaskets/seals associated with a turbo replacement. They were going to call me when parts came in.

But I still worry that the turbo isnt the issue. And that I will still have problems after the swap.....problems they are likely gonna want to charge me for...
 

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I was having an issue where the threads on one of my spark plugs was shredded the plug ended up not seating properly and that was actually throwing me P0299 the 1st time so it seems like that code is thrown each time there is some sort of little issue with the pressure I have a 2016 with almost 200000 miles
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Well, its been almost a month now since the dealer said they were ordering parts and would call me when they came in. Not sure how long it takes a GM dealer to order a pretty common turbo and the associated gaskets/seals??

Even though I still aint convinced in their diagnostics. The problem is getting more and more predictable.

My wifes drive to work is ~10 miles and 15 min and never has issues.
My drive is ~20 miles and 30 min, I always have issues if I drive it, but its never until ~20 min into the drive then all of the sudden, like a switch is flipped, no boost.

Wife also has issues if shopping and driving farther distances. But always ~20 min of driving and BAM, no boost. And so far, EVERYTIME, a simple power cycle fixes the issue for another 15-20 min before it happens again.

BUT......now a new issue. And I dont know if its related or even if it is new (because its winter), but am getting BCM codes U154a and U1548. And rear windows DONT WORK. They dont work from their individual switch, nor the master on the drivers door. Both front windows and sun/moon roof work fine. But I dont know exactly when this issue started, cause again, its winter and dont make a habit of rolling down windows in the winter in ohio.

Also....probably related to the windows....the rear doors no longer make the dome light come on. (yes the switch is in the right position). The front doors make the interior lights come on just fine.

So its almost like the vehicle / BCM doesnt even recognize the rear doors. Like it thinks its a coupe or something??

But this latest electrical issue with the windows is making me think more than ever that the no-boost issue is also electrical???

5 year old car....75k miles. Within the last year....Tcase output seal leak, coil pack failure, coolant line to turbo leak, wheel bearing, replacement battery and now two un-resolved issues with underboost and rear windows not working. Makes me wonder IF and WHEN I get it fixed....whats next with the unreliable POS the GM calls a vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Already done that. Mentioned it in the first post.
 

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Potential causes of a P0299 turbo underboost code include:

Intake (induction) air restriction or leak
Failed or damaged turbocharger (sticking, binding, etc.)
Faulty boost/charge pressure sensor

Read more at: P0299 Turbocharger/Supercharger A Underboost Condition


From what you have said, that leaves the sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Potential causes of a P0299 turbo underboost code include:

Intake (induction) air restriction or leak
Failed or damaged turbocharger (sticking, binding, etc.)
Faulty boost/charge pressure sensor

Read more at: P0299 Turbocharger/Supercharger A Underboost Condition


From what you have said, that leaves the sensor.
Except 90% of the time I am NOT getting a code. And according to the bluedriver scan tool, the throttle is not evening opening, or being commanded to be open, even though it is reading accelerator pedal position near 100%, and kicking down the transmission to try to gain speed.

So it's like part of the computer knows we want to accelerate by downshifting the trans. But another part of the brain is having nothing to do with it, and refusing to open the throttle. I don't think the map sensor is faulty. I can monitor it on the bluedriver as well. And sure enough, when the car is in gutless mode, reading won't go past 29-30 inches when romping on it. Where as normally it will hit 50-60 inches no problem. And drop to 7-10 inches when coasting.

The way the bluedriver interprets the map is 30+ is boost and under 30 is vacuum.

So when the car acts up, the sensor is reading correctly. The issue is indeed no boost. But not throwing a code makes me think that the computer does NOT want to see boost for some reason?

My opinion....I still think something is telling the throttle not to open. And a closed butterfly ain't gonna make boost.

If the turbo was messed up, or wastegate hanging open causing a lack of boost, or a boost leak somewhere....that would throw a code.
 

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My opinion....I still think something is telling the throttle not to open. And a closed butterfly ain't gonna make boost.
More likely, something is telling the computer that it doesn't need to open the valve, that either the engine is producing enough power or the throttle is already open far enough.
 

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Well I had an ongoing thread I posted about a month ago, detailing and documenting what has been done to vehicle, what checks / tests I have done, and what the dealer has told me. Now its gone??? And a week or so ago I came on here to update my latest info only to find out that I was banned for spam??? WTH? Said please contact admin if this was in error. Well....that was fun. Cant to squat with this website when "banned" so just how am I supposed to "contact admin"????? Had to clear history and cookies and all that. Well, finally I'm back.....but my previous thread and all its info are gone? Just wonderful. Nothing going right....just like with this stupid car.

Anyway, on to business. The car is actually a 2015 Buick encore. I am fighting an engine issue with lacking power.

Sometimes the car runs perfect.....other times its gutless. And while in its "gutless" state....sometimes it will throw a code.....but more often than not it wont throw a code.

I personally have checked the PVC system and checked for a blown diaphragm in the valve cover. Have also cleaned the throttle body, as well as preformed a boost-leak test. All is fine.

From the time this issue first started, it was never really an issue until hills. Its pretty flat around me, and its my wifes vehicle and she baby's it. So under normal conditions it really aint making boost anyway. But a new position with her company has her making a 1.5hr drive further (and pretty hilly) about once every two weeks. Everytime she makes this drive she complains that it can barley make it up hills. (when I say hills, its not like mountains. ITs interstate grades, in central ohio for crying out loud.) Once in a blue moon it will throw a freeze frame P0299 (underboost) code. But most times not. For all intent's and purposes, the thing seems to run great.....just as if you were towing 20k behind this little thing.

So after battling this intermittent issue (which I now think was only intermittent due to driving some hills only once every few weeks)...for about 6 months I decide its time for a dealer visit. I normally do all my own wrenching. Actually graduated college in 05 with an associate degree for working on vehicles. Just chose Industrial Multicraft as a profession rather than working in a dealership. But this has me stumped. I can us a laptop and interface with RXlogics 500 and 5000 in the factory.....but automotive computers are a whole different animal that I am not equipped to communicate with.

As I feared (and my hesitation for wanting to take to the dealer)....they had it for two days and couldn't find anything wrong. I honestly dont think they drove the car more than 5 min. They wanted us to come drive it more, and if a code came on not to clear it and bring it back promptly. I asked the mechanic what he "checked" in the two days. He rattled off all the same stuff I already checked. Throttle body cleaning, PVC system, Vacuum leak / cam cover issue, etc. I asked him about the turbo wastegate as thats one thing I had not checked and what the odds were it was intermittently hanging up causing issues. He said it did have a little slop and "could" be intermittently hanging up causing the issue. HE also said there were cracks at the wastegate (which is a common thing but not an issue). So when we left I told the wife to drive a little more aggressively to try to force it it act up since we dont have good "hills" to test it on.

Didnt make it 5 min and its a gutless turd again and pops a code. Took right back to the dealer, but all the techs were gone. (This was just after 5 on a friday). They were busy saturday, didnt get to it monday...finally tuesday they call and say it needs a turbo. And that we can come and get it if we want to think about it and they have to order parts anyway.

Im still not convinced its the turbo. I think the mechanic is just piggy-backing off of my hypothesis that the wastegate is hanging up as thats exactly what he said the issue is pretty much in "my words" as he described the problem to me and why a new turbo is needed.

I borrowed a bluedriver off a guy at work if you guys are familiar. So I could monitor and record MAP data, pedal position, "commanded throttle position" , "accelerator position" etc.

It is plain as day on the data and charts that when the issue occurs....its making NO BOOST.I left the heat shroud off so I could actually see the wastegate actuator. When this issue occurred during my testing with the bluedriver, on multiple occasions I would get out and wiggle the wastegate. No change, still no boost. So I am not convinced that the wastegate....even though it is rough and sloppy, is the issue. But when this low-power issue occurs.....the "commanded throttle position", "actual throttle position" and "accelerator position B" as labeled in the bluedriver data all drop WAY off, and the car simply isnt making boost. Even though the "accelerator pedal position" is way above where it normally is when things are working properly. The engine revs way up....4500rpm+....pedal position high.....but yet no boost, and it appears the throttle body isnt opening or even being commanded to be open.

So its the "what came first, the chicken or the egg" analogy. Is the computer sensing an issue with the turbo and preventing the "drive-by-wire" throttle butterfly from opening. OR is there some other issue preventing the butterfly from opening and THAT is what is causing it to not make boost because the engine simply isnt breathing enough air to allow turbo to spool???

I drove this car up and down the road, from babying all the way up to romping on it for 30 min straight and never making boost. Yet not one code was thrown. Was expecting to see a P0299. But lack of code tells me the computer is seeing exactly the boost it ought to see based on the other parameters. And again, wiggling and moving the wastegate made no change. BUT.....shutting off the engine for a mere 2 seconds and restarting....all of the sudden everything works perfectly again, and making plenty of boost? A quick powercycle is making me think the issue is more electrical gremlins rather than a mechanical issue (wastegate).

My personal theory is that something other than the turbo is causing the throttle to not open. And a closed throttle (or mostly closed) preventing the engine from breathing is causing no power and no boost. And that the once in a blue mood that I get a P0299, may indeed be the wastegate hanging up....but that is a very infrequent problem and the much more frequent issue of "No power and no code" is something totally different.

My fear is that I am gonna spend alot of money on a turbo....then still have the same issues and be right back at square one. And not sure what recourse I'll have with the dealer if they failed to diagnose the issue correctly? I dont like paying for them the guess and throw parts at it hoping they eventually guess right.

Sorry it was long winded, but hoping someone will have some insight.
Having the same gutless no boost problem, have been for over year. Trying to fix as I go. Valve cover, intake manifold, pcv
That was painful without paragraphs or punctuation.

But would w pcv issue be intermittent and no codes
I've been having the same problems. Been fixing as I can as I go.
Doesn't happen all the time, sometimes i get codes but most of the time I don't. And it's always when going uphill!!

What has been fixed..
Valve cover
Intake manifold
Pcv rebuild kit
Pcv pipe valve
Maps sensor
Turbo sensor
Air filter

Codes currently throwing today are pc00c7, p2230 and p2277

After every item fixed it drives good for a few days to a month, the longest being after the manifold. But I've had the same codes throughout! Any insight would be helpful.
 

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The p00c7 code is a generic code telling you it sees the p2230 code and/or p2227

DTC P00C7
  • Intake Air Pressure Measurement System - Multiple Sensors Not Plausible
Now p2277 doesn't register as a code, but if you meant p2227 then..

DTC P2227
Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Performance

Could be wiring, dirty connector, etc. Also if your intercooler tubes are loose it could cause these to set also. Another issue I've seen before is o2 sensor and boost sensor connectors put on each other (swapped). They both fit and are right in the same area.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Op here with the Buick encore.

No need to worry about my problems anymore. Dealer never called. Been 4 weeks now, not sure how long it takes to order parts? But this is unacceptable.

Traded it in last night for a 2017 Jeep. Not my problem anymore. That will probably be my last GM for awhile. Lack of service, communication, and at the end of the day....a total POS of a vehicle.
 
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